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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 6:32 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 101
Location: Southern Finland
Car Model*:
Have been wondering for a while now if a $1.00 buck converter would do the same job as a $50.00 solid state limiter.
If so, should I be aware of some issues, like how much current is drawn in the cluster?
That is, should I have to know the specs for the buck converter, so that I don't fry it or anything else in the cluster?
Was thinking of changeing the original ones in my -70 Duster and -74 Valiant to get the constant 5 volt.
The buck converter doesn't need a heat sink because of better efficiency, so that's a cool thing. (pun intended)
Don't know anything about electronics so that's why I'm asking you guys.

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Mopar or no car.

Bye the way, who the F**K is Tu Ning?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 9:00 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12480
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model*: 82 Ramcharger, 76 D100
See here: https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 11:12 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Feb 14, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 101
Location: Southern Finland
Car Model*:
The $50.00 is for the readymade item that SlantSixDan has promoted via linking the page.
I know I can solder the solid state myself for a couple of bucks,
but the original question remains...
Is the "factory made" Buck converter (from Ebay) a viable solution?

1) I don't have to solder anything, it's ready to go
2) It runs much cooler than the solid state thus is more efficient.
3) Only costs $1.00-4.00 depending of the make and seller on Ebay

_________________
Mopar or no car.



Bye the way, who the F**K is Tu Ning?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 24, 2020 2:07 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12480
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model*: 82 Ramcharger, 76 D100
Try it and tell us.


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