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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 6:21 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/Plymouth-1972-1985-6-Cylinder-NOS-OEM-Mopar-Electronic-Distributor-3874082-/361681541700

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 9:52 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2015 1:58 pm
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Location: So Cal
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Yes thanks for the link. This same guy is selling 3 different types of elec distribs. One is 3874714, one is 3874876 and one is 3874082. The -876 version is the most current and is supposed to be SuperSix, which is what I have converted to. However that one has no bar to attach to the engine, no lock down. So I am trying to determine if I can reuse my old distributor Lock Down bar,? Anyone know what the differences are between these 3 distribs? Not much info on the WWW about these models.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:45 pm 
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6 Pack Dart
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Location: Eugene, Oregon
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You can use the old hold down, if it has the solid metal ring on the new one just remove it and all the old hold down parts will fit.

Richard

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 Post subject: If...
PostPosted: Thu Oct 06, 2016 6:18 am 
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Location: Salem, OR
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If you need a spare old style hold down, I have a few I can part with for a couple bucks...

4876 would be desired with the 9R governor and mileage vacc adv.
4714 would be next in line
4082 is for 1975 and has the 15L governor like the 1973-1974 distributors...

FYI


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Oct 07, 2016 11:10 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2015 1:58 pm
Posts: 149
Location: So Cal
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Also, does the HEI conversion require an Alternator upgrade? I dont have AC. I have already done the Headlight relay upgrade. I have bypassed the Ammeter.
I have the original roundback 35amp alternator, though it is putting out a little more that normal amps while running. like average around 15.2 when warmed up.

I have also replaced the VR.

I guess what I am asking is how much increased in Amps is this new HEI setup gonna pull?
Then if I do the Relay for it?

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 08, 2016 7:00 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2015 1:58 pm
Posts: 149
Location: So Cal
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Also where is a popular place to mount this bracket unit ? It is sorta heavy. I am thinking put it at the front so I can drill holes and use nuts/bolts to mount it.
ideas? pictures?

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 09, 2016 4:18 am 
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model*: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
does the HEI conversion require an Alternator upgrade?


I did not do any on my car.

15.2V is a little higher than normal I think? But maybe not?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 11:45 am 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2015 1:58 pm
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Location: So Cal
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So I am getting ready to install the dizzy that I got from the Old Car Parts NW guy, it is the 4876, however it has the 11R governor in it. Is that right? I thought it was supposed to have the 9R in it? Should I be concerned? The distributor is supposed to be NOS, however it is very grimey and even has some rusty areas (like on the inner parts) and the spring looks oxidized. I am not sure if I need to clean it all or what/. After shipping the thing cost me $125. What do you guys think?

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 24, 2016 1:21 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Jun 15, 2015 1:58 pm
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Location: So Cal
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Connecting the power , I have 14g wire coming from 87 going to the Module which is then piggybacked to the pink wire heading to the eCoil. Is this acceptable? Or does the power need to first hit the coil then piggyback over to the module.?
does it matter? help please..

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 12:12 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 459
Location: Gainesville, FL
Car Model*: 1964 Plymouth Valiant 225, 1977 Dodge D100 225
Okay, I'm rebuilding my engine from the ground up with new components, so unfortunately, everything I have is mostly untested. I have a multimeter, a testing light to diagnose.

The whole thing is hooked to a brand new Ron Francis wiring harness set up for Mopar electronic ignition. All lines test perfectly.

Module is a brand new Accel module that was tested at O'Reilly's and shown to be working. It is mounted flush on bare metal (I removed the plastic prongs on the back), coated in dialectric grease, with a 14 ga wire running straight to the copper grounding bolt for the rest of the car.

I've got hot from battery on start and run from the ignition switch running to the B terminal of the module and the + of the coil. They both read slightly above 12V. C to the - on the coil also shows 12V.

Continuity checks out between the W and G terminals to the distributor.

Coil is a Mallory Promaster that I bought still in the box. Wires are are brand new 7.5mm Magnacores that all test consistently with Magnacore high resistence (High 2K to high 4K ohms based on length).

For a while I was getting power to the coil, but no spark out of the coil (as tested by my in line bulb tester, which has been checked repeatedly against a running vehicle). I thought it was the pickup coil in the distributor (which was rebuilt and recurved by a gentleman on this forum whose name escapes me at the moment, but the dizzy looks brand new.) I tried swapping out the ignitor coil and got excited because then we started getting consistent spark from the coil wire into the distributor!

Sadly, the distributor appeared to not be sending any spark out of it. I was using a brand new NAPA Echlin long-tip rotor # MO-3000 rotor and brand new Standard-Bluestreak CH-410. I tried replacing the rotor with another long-tip. No luck. Cap looks perfect. My friend that's helping me suggested that maybe because they were "not matched" rotor and cap, they weren't working well together. I went to NAPA and bought the standard Echlin cap and rotor to test the theory. Now we're only getting a single spark out of the coil line to the distributor on the initial first hit of the start and a spark when we turn it off. I've ordered another distributor from NAPA just to make sure it's not the distributor, but I'm really at a loss at this point. Any ideas?

I know I'm not running the relays, but I figured with a brand new wiring harness, they'd probably be overkill. Thanks!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 2:24 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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armyofchuckness wrote:
Coil is a Mallory Promaster


Is that an HEI coil? Offhand I think it might not be.

Quote:
My friend that's helping me suggested that maybe because they were "not matched" rotor and cap, they weren't working well together.


That's not it.

Quote:
I know I'm not running the relays, but I figured with a brand new wiring harness, they'd probably be overkill.


Maybe not. Ron Francis' components aren't as good or as thoughtfully designed as he'd like to believe they are.

I'm assuming you bypassed the ballast resistor, right?

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 Post subject: Mine.
PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 5:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
I thought it was the pickup coil in the distributor (which was rebuilt and recurved by a gentleman on this forum whose name escapes me at the moment, but the dizzy looks brand new.)


Yes, I believe I did that recurve.

If you believe the pickup is at fault, there are two tasks that need to occur before it can be called 'toast'...

The first one is to check the air gap between the reluctor teeth and the pick up tooth... it has to be checked with a copper feeler gauge... factory preferred gap was .008... some feeler gauge sets now only have the .010 feeler and it will work fine... roll each reluctor tooth even with the tooth on the pick up and check the gap... if they are .010, the gap is fine (you can be .008-.014 so a little variation is OK). If it is not, loosen the screw at the base of the pickup and adjust the gap with the feeler gauge between both teeth.

Once the gap is correct... use a multimeter set to ohms (1000), put each meter probe in each of the pigtail connections.... roll the shaft slowly the whole 360 degrees and observe the reluctor and the meter... at each tooth the meter should read about 150 ohms or so... at each "valley" between the teeth you should see 450 ohms (I've seen it between 300 and 600)...

If the pickup is dead... it will either be "open" and read 1 or infinite resistance.... or the resistance doesn't have a wide swing or only read one high reading (like 280 or 400 no matter land or valley).

I suspect that Dan may be closer to the reason for the intermittent spark... but this procedure will help rule out whether the pickup is also the cause or not.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 8:45 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 459
Location: Gainesville, FL
Car Model*: 1964 Plymouth Valiant 225, 1977 Dodge D100 225
Yes! You did build it. I found the paperwork you sent with it before I went over to Charlie's house to test everything.

The module is fine.

Ballast resistor is bypassed.

The coil tests ok. I called MSD and asked them if the coil would work with an HEI and they said it shouldn't be a problem, but I don't know how qualified the guy is to say that. It's one of those big oil filled ones. Here's the instructions and diagrams. It's supposed to work with HEI and Chrysler electronic ignitions.
http://www.jegs.com/installationinstruc ... -29440.pdf

Charlie thinks it's a bad distributor and it going to take the recurve work that DI did and move it to another distributor so we'll still be able to use your work. There was way too much slop in the shaft for it to work properly. I'm hoping that's what the problem is and maybe next weekend we can fire it up.

The wiring could still be a factor, and I'll take heed to SSD's warning on the quality of the Francis setup. The guy that's helping me wiring it is a big fan of RF and believes they are perfect, but if this project has taught me anything, it's that any part can be faulty at any time for any reason.

Thanks again for the help, guys! I'll let you know what happens.

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 Post subject: Interesting....
PostPosted: Fri Feb 03, 2017 9:44 pm 
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Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
There was way too much slop in the shaft for it to work properly.


That's interesting, since I mic and match every shaft and bushing to make sure that it is tight after cleaning and honing... (I mean no more than .001-.002... remans are in the .005-.007 range...).. and I do a side tension test for side play...

If you want to save your money I can send you another OEM (or reman if you prefer)body and matched shaft to swap the guts to... (send the junkers back for analysis, my pay on the postage both ways). Send PM with your address and I will get one boxed up and in USPS tomorrow AM.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 5:24 am 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2002 12:06 pm
Posts: 7500
Location: Silver Springs, Fl.
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Hey, DI. I just went out to the shop, and did a "quicky" side play test. Just used a vernier against the body of the dist, to the reluctor. The side play was about .018, it would measure more at the top of the shaft. Was getting a inconsistant "trigger" due to the variance of the pickup/reluctor gap. It's up to you and Chuck would you do. I can transfer your parts to another distributer, or he can swap out with you. Either way is fine with me.

But lets take this to PM's

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65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
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