After searching for the cause of my hard starting misfiring 6 I found that I only have 4 volts at my coil at 1500 rpm. Also, you'd think on start up I would have more voltage available for a hotter spark. I'm going to go nuts with multimeter and run down each circuit. It would be nice to know what a stock w/ points should meter at.

Unrelated I also found a half tooth missing off of my nylon distributor drive gear. That couldn't have helped my misfires either.

I am also in Vancouver if you would like some assistance. PM me if so.

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Joshua

Typical Chrysler ignition circuitry provides two current paths to coil with different voltages.

At start position of key, current path bypasses ballast resistor sending a full 12volts to coil producing a temporary hotter spark for an easer light-off of air-fuel mixture.

Once engine fires off, starter disengaged with ignition key now in Run position, current path pass through ballast resistor reducing voltage coil sees by about a third, or to around 8 volts. (depends on which ballast resistor being used)

Locate your wiring diagram here, trace out both start & run circuits on a sheet of paper, then locate both circuits in car and start checking for voltage drop including ignition switch.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Now I'm having a seperate issue. Aren't old wires fun. I had it running, turned it off then back on and had nothing. I have no power at key and coil. no lights, no buzz, no nothing. The starter has power. Looks like I'm on a fusable link hunt. Is the switch itself a weak link too?

Check the "bulhhead" connector, for bad connections, corrosion. Known problem area. I chased an intermittant misfire for over a year, that turned out to be a bad connection there.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

You are not getting power to dash side of bulkhead connector. Suspect number one is 10 gage brown wire, and or the fuseable link between battery and bulkhead connector. You may find melted portions of the bulkhead connector where the main power feed passes through it. Also conductor from alternator also passes through bulkhead connector and can be a high resistance point in harness that can melt as well.

Check for loose or damaged amp gage connections another location for power supply failure. If amp gage connections can not be made serviceable bolt the two wires together and tape it up real good with the GOOD TAPE; 3M number 33 (this stuff won't come unraveled, dry out, or otherwise be effected by temperature extremes.

I would spend the time and effort to replace all brass (male & female) connectors (57Packard 56 type, BM & FM 100) in bulkhead connector with new. It will take a bit of time, well worth the effort for reliability, and keeping the fire gods at bay.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC