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PostPosted: Wed Jul 19, 2017 5:24 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 2:14 pm
Posts: 11
Car Model*:
Hey guys,
So in my 270 wagon, we had to replace the fuel gauge, temp gauge as the old fuel gauge burned out and took the temp gauge with it. Now that the new old stock parts are in, I have another issue. I have no dash lights, no blinker lights, the blinkers outside still work but flash fast. And the temp gauge still does not work. I check the fuses. I am guessing common ground? Any ideas?
Thank you for the help!!!!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 4:16 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5105
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model*:
Temp & Fuel fry when beaker points on dash voltage regulator stick closed feeding 12v to 5 volt these 5 volt gauges.

Dash lights panel blinker indicator get their ground via dash pod's attachment screws.

Temperature gauge (5v) wire may be interrupted at bulkhead connector from corroded high resistance connection this is a common problem for all conductors passing through firewall.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 8:36 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2016 2:14 pm
Posts: 11
Car Model*:
Does any one have a wiring diagram? Are both black and red wire going to the amp gauge supposed to be hot?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 23, 2017 6:24 pm 
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1 BBL (New)

Joined: Sat Sep 08, 2012 7:50 pm
Posts: 9
Location: Burlington WI.
Car Model*:
Can't help you with a wiring diagram, for a 63. You can probably download one over on forabodiesonly.com. On 65, and up both wires you mention are hot unless you disconnnect the battery. They both connect to the ampmeter.
barracudadave67

_________________
66-B-Cuda S-6
67-B-Cuda 273 4bbl
69-B-Cuda 340 4 bbl
66-Dart project 273 2 bbl


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 6:08 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5105
Location: Downeast Maine
Car Model*:
Look here top of list for your electrical needs.

Think of amp gauge as an electron flow direction pointer. It is connected to battery & alternator. When only battery is supplying electrons to wiring harness gauge will point to discharge. When only alternator is supplying electron it points to charge. When balance between electron flow is equal between battery and alternator gauge points to center.

So after starting engine, battery under goes a slight discharge, alternator picks up the load supplies charging current to battery bringing it back to full charge. Gauge first points to D while starter is engaged, once engine fires up gauge points to charge sending current (electron flow) to battery and slowly returns to center position as battery returns to full voltage.

Another thing to keep in mind is the alternator on these cars, depending on year of manufacture, produce 30 to 70 amps, and once alternator stops turning so does its current production. On the other hand a 12v car battery depending on its size can dump 450 to 800 amps of instant conductor melting energy into a cars wiring harness when something grounds out where the only way to stop this out rush of current is burn a wire clean off until it becomes an open circuit or remove a battery cable from its post. Burned up harness is the usual result, as the one conductor that heats up generally melts any other conductors bundled along with it.

_________________
67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC



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