So I bought this Hood lock system, which snakes through from the steering column (beneath) through firewall, around battery to the hood latch area, where I installed a new bracket and also a bracket onto the hood. So inside you use a special key to depress the hood lock cable, and it keeps the hood from being opened.

It works, however there is a 2nd part to this system, they also include a wire which is supposed to connect to one of the wires leading from the electronic distributor, then when you turn the hood lock thing (special key) it also creates a short to the dizzy so it wont be able to start. The wire they include is part of the key switch, but is then supposed to connect to a resistor wire which they also include, then attach that to one of the wires from the dizzy. But they dont say which wire. Any idea which wire to connect it to??

In their instructions they actually say try one wire, if that dont work, try the other. I would rather not cut the wrong wire, then have to splice again into the other wire.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-7-mechanic ... Sw4A5YtzzH

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

if when the switch is locked, it makes a ground in the wire that hooks into one of the distributor wires, it won't make a difference of which of the two distributor wires that you tie into,,those two distributor wires are a low voltage path, maybe one volt or so, if there is a ground present there will be no output from the distributor. Resistor's limit current flow, would need to know exactly what is on either end of it to speculate on its purpose.

Post back on how effective the hood lock is, as well as the ignition cut out,, it looks interesting.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

This lock thing you have is what I had installed on my 82 LeBaron ragtop in 1982 before I took delivery from Framingham Chrysler. It was called Chapman hood lock and had one wire that went to coil if I recall correctly. I yanked it out years later when the push button barrel lock under dash froze up. I didn't know those were still in the market.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Yea now the company selling it is Megatronix. Though the one I bought was older, and the box is marked Micro Alarm systems.
It is 7 feet. I was able to figure out the ignition kill, but took some mistakes.

Since I am running the HEI on my 66 slant, I thought I could simply pig tail direct onto the ICM on the letter C which is coil neg. So I tried that, and when I pushed in the button, car would turn but not start. Great I thought. Then I popped the button out, and I still couldnt get the car to start, like still no spark?? So then I thought I fried the ICM or even the eCoil. So I got out my back up eColi and ICM, connected it, like normal (removed the ignition kill wire) and it took several tries before I finally got it to start, and then it was super rough and wierd, but after 30 seconds of that it was running smooth again. Shut the engine off/on a few times no issues.
So then I reconnected the original eCoil and ICM, and went down to the dizzy wires and determined the White wire is neg, so I tied the ignition kill wire into it. And it works perfect now. Actually I ended up piggy backing the kill wire directly onto the ICM letter W (large spade) which is where the white wire from Dizzy connects. Cleaner and still works the same. I will try to post some pics since I searched all over the web and found noone with an Early A body attempting this install.

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

I'd put a fuse to the power supply of the coil so that when you ground out the coil you blow the fuse.

Same end result, but easier on the coil..............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes