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 Post subject: HEI MODULE CONNECTOR!
PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 10:25 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 8:01 pm
Posts: 24
Location: West Plains, Missouri
Car Model: 1982 dodge ram
Do they make an aftermarket HEI module connectors?
I realize I can use spade connectors,but trying to make things neat and worry free if possible.


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 11:26 am 
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Location: Burton BC canada
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You can buy the OEM connectors.

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 12:24 pm 
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Supercharged

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part number-source?

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 12:54 pm 
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Summit racing PRF60124 and PRF60125

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 5:57 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Car Model: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Please delete.

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Last edited by drgonzo on Mon May 28, 2018 6:46 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 7:16 pm 
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Supercharged

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The prf 60124 and 60125 appear to be coil connectors, and rather pricy, the original question was inquiring on pre-made harness for a 4 pin HEI module,,,,

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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 7:57 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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Pigtail similar to Accel 170072 might work


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 6:58 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:55 am
Posts: 1387
Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
I assume you are using the GM style 4 pin module. You can use two of the Dorman 85841 as it will fit the side with 2 wide terminals perfectly. It will work on the side with the fat and skinny terminal, but it you want something that fits a little better, just get the distributor pickup coil (circa 1976 more or less) and use that. I picked up a Standard LX-309 off ebay for around $5 and just cut the pigtail from that. The Dorman 85841 type connector is widely available just about everywhere. It is the same connector for the (GM) internal regulator alternators.

Attachment:
Dorman85841.jpg
Dorman85841.jpg [ 9.43 KiB | Viewed 7371 times ]
Attachment:
LX-309.jpg
LX-309.jpg [ 8.47 KiB | Viewed 7371 times ]


Hope this helps.

-Matt

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 7:34 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
Here is the finished item on my Race Car. I tried to keep it light and compact (and simple).
This is everything, there is even a power relay in there somewhere.
Attachment:
DragonHEI.jpg
DragonHEI.jpg [ 46.38 KiB | Viewed 7365 times ]


The pigtail that goes to the distributor is a trailer plug, the other two (to the module)are as listed in the above post. I put a piece of red tape on one side of the module power plug to (hopefully) make it harder to plug in backwards. The coil connector came with the coil, but I think it is available separately (Ford application). The only external connections are a blue wire, which goes to the factory ignition power wire (also blue). There is a red wire for power (+12v) applied via the relay. And, lastly, there is a yellow wire for the electric tach (it's yellow only because that was the color it happened to be). I also have a separate ground wire for the entire thing. It isn't really needed, but I feel better with it there.

-Matt

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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 8:38 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 8:01 pm
Posts: 24
Location: West Plains, Missouri
Car Model: 1982 dodge ram
Thank you everyone for your input! You all are very helpful. And special Thank you to Matt.
Pictures helpful.
I think I will try and use the GM coil pack that is mounted to a bracket,along with a module.These were on 96-00+
GM trucks&suvs.Take the module and install the 4 pin.
Should make for a neat compact setup.
But Matt,I do like how yours looks with the Ford coil.
Did you make the custum coil bracket?
Again thanks to one and all!
Rod


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 8:53 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
Yes, I made up my own mounting bracket. I like things simple, compact, and light (on the race car).
I got a 'heat sink' with the Ford style coil, but I didn't use it. I didn't think the coil needed a heat sink. I just bought some generic heat sink plates on ebay for the module. The one on top of the module is more for looks, but there is one on the bottom as well. I plan to make a second ignition assembly, to have ready at the track as a spare, in case of problems. The harness for this thing is small and wrapped in harness wrap (like tape, but not sticky). For the race car, I am using an Accel coil and module, but my spare will likely have the regular OEM stuff I picked up to build the 'prototype'.
And, as an added (race car) bonus, the HEI setup is about a half pound lighter than the OE Mopar module/coil.
-Matt

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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 10:32 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 8:01 pm
Posts: 24
Location: West Plains, Missouri
Car Model: 1982 dodge ram
Hey Matt,
What brand of relay did you use.
I see some that are (bosch style)but not branded BOSCH.
Then see some that are china made that are waterproof.


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 8:20 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:55 am
Posts: 1387
Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
I just used a Standard RY116 relay. There are easy to find, under various part numbers. Some auto parts houses even have the connector plug for them. I like this relay because it handles high current and is designed to be energized for lengthy periods of time. I use the same relay for my electric fans.
-Matt

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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 9:20 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun May 20, 2018 8:01 pm
Posts: 24
Location: West Plains, Missouri
Car Model: 1982 dodge ram
Matt,
What do you do with 5th terminal?
Think marked 87a.
Rod


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PostPosted: Mon May 28, 2018 4:10 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:55 am
Posts: 1387
Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
Terminal 87a just hangs there, nothing connected to it.
85-harness ground
86-car harness 'Start/Run'
87-power for ignition module
30-battery power in

-Matt

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