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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 11:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 13816
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Amen, Josh.

Lou

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 1:23 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jan 12, 2015 5:55 am
Posts: 905
Location: Brightwood, VA
Car Model*: 1965 Plymouth Belvedere I
FYI, In 1973, my best friend had a 73 gold Duster. It had a foot operated (manual) windshield washer pump. This was a factory item. AND, each door had a handle on the inside that you used to crank the windows up or down with (this was often referred to as the 'air conditioning'). AND, it had the Hi/Lo beam switch for the headlights on the floor.
We had no computers or internet back then (really), so things were a little crude.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 1:42 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 12354
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model*: 68 Valiant
Imagine how people felt when the key started your car instead of the push button on the floor by the gas pedal....... :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 2:08 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 913
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model*: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
slantzilla wrote:
Imagine how people felt when the key started your car instead of the push button on the floor by the gas pedal....... :mrgreen:

I started with a '50 Ford F1. It had the button on the dash. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 6:29 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 12435
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model*: 82 Ramcharger, 76 D100
I suppose the foot operated windshield washer fluid bladder would blow people's minds these days.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 02, 2019 7:34 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 01, 2002 5:02 pm
Posts: 1670
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model*: '23 T-bucket
How about AM radios, with the linear analog channel adjustment? (WTF is this !? :shock: :? :roll: )

Roger


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:29 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:42 am
Posts: 7074
Location: Vine Grove, KY
Car Model*: More than I should have...
My '72 Dart still has the original wiper foot pump... and dimmer switch...

I think we blew it with the original poster... We became "those internet guys"... :oops:

I'm gonna PM him.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 10:32 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:36 am
Posts: 913
Location: Rome, GA
Car Model*: 1963 Dart 270, 1980 D150
Rob Simmons wrote:
My '72 Dart still has the original wiper foot pump... and dimmer switch...

I think we blew it with the original poster... We became "those internet guys"... :oops:

I'm gonna PM him.

Yeah. We need him back. We are small in numbers as it is.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 03, 2019 11:45 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 11:29 pm
Posts: 561
Location: Seattle, WA
Car Model*: 75 Dart SE (2),75 Swinger, 74 Dart Sport,91 Ram RV
Hey, RUSTER! Welcome aboard! Because of the "vintage" of the Slant engines, there are some knowledgeable (?) and experienced "Vintage" old guys on this forum, mixed in with the normal working Slanters who are just trying to keep these old collectibles alive on a budget. This site has YEARS of good postings and threads on just about any Slanted-vehicle subject, so just ask! We are all here to happily support each other, and especially to encourage you, and all hovering around who are new to the Slanted life. :D

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"Louise", a 1976 Dart Custom project, (now sadly reverted to being just an "organ donor" to our other project Darts.)


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 2:30 am 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:52 pm
Posts: 76
Car Model*: 1975 Plymouth Duster
Sorry, haven't checked in since I got a response. The high-beam switch (previously known as "where the third water leak is coming from") does work. In fact, I've been driving with the high-beams on for the whole time I've driven the car (about a month now, daily). I couldn't tell they were on because of how pitifully weak the headlights are compared to most of the eye-shattering LED crap that's on the road. One other problem I've noticed is that all the dash lights are, for some reason, wired into the high-beam circuit. They turn off when I'm using low beams. This is something of a problem as I already have to squint at the temp gauge at night, as half the dash lights have already died.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 5:43 am 
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Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Car Model*: '23 T-bucket
Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
In fact, I've been driving with the high-beams on for the whole time I've driven the car (about a month now, daily).


THAT must have P-O'd a few other drivers you met at night.

Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
One other problem I've noticed is that all the dash lights are, for some reason, wired into the high-beam circuit. They turn off when I'm using low beams. This is something of a problem as I already have to squint at the temp gauge at night, as half the dash lights have already died.


Oh, my! That is a bit of a problem. Some previous owner must have forked around with the wiring, and hacked it up just to get things "working" to a degree. Looks like you're going to have to stick your head up under the dash and sneak a peek at things to determine just how bad it is.

Good luck.....Roger


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 07, 2019 10:49 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model*: 68 Valiant
GTS225 wrote:
Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
In fact, I've been driving with the high-beams on for the whole time I've driven the car (about a month now, daily).


THAT must have P-O'd a few other drivers you met at night.



I doubt it. My '73 has the "big" 37 amp alternator on it. Blinding people with the headlights is not an issue. :lol:

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 2:32 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 10, 2003 7:15 am
Posts: 266
Location: N. California
Car Model*:
Reed wrote:
One upside to switching the high beam to the stalk is that in snowy or wet areas the high beam switch would no longer get wet and rust up inside and disable the high beams or the entire headlight system.
Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
The high-beam switch (previously known as "where the third water leak is coming from")

You did make the mental connection between the two above comments, right? It's subtle, but a gem of a hint regarding what type of damage to look for. :wink:

Quote:
all the dash lights turn off when I'm using low beams. This is something of a problem

Yikes, that's a bit of an understatement. :shock: Are you good with figuring out electrical diagrams? For a car of this vintage, the circuit you want can probably fit on one page. (For my 1964, the entire car fit into 3 pages.) Search the forum and find links for books, Factory Service Manuals, diagrams... You absolutely want to correct this. It's not rocket science even though it feels like it to a first-timer. And it's needless to say 100x times easier to fix if it's still functional: your dimmer switch is supposed to cycle from high to low -- you don't want it to cycle through all subsequent states of high-low-smoke-off.

Reed wrote:
I suppose the foot operated windshield washer fluid bladder would blow people's minds these days.

Probably. Though I must thank Chrysler for making it. It worked quite well and allowed an amazing amount of user control to squirt at the exact point on the windshield that you wanted it -- to counteract the difference between airflow at standstill vs. highway speeds, for example. But there's another advantage to modern life: my memory of the 73 Duster is the main reason I was able to figure out how the hand washing station works at the Pick-n-Pull junk yard. 8)

Back on topic, when was the last year for a floor dimmer switch? I'm pretty sure the Aspen/Volare still had it...

- Erik

PS. for what it's worth, I've read tales of folks who are so delightfully obstinate/pigheaded/dreamy/whatever that they will disconnect the turn signal wiring and extend wires down to the floor as it should be. I believe the talk was of early 70s (or maybe even late 60s?) Volvos. I resisted my urge to suggest they leave both connected and wire it as a three-way configuration, so that either your hand or your foot could take control at any moment.

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Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2019 6:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
Posts: 9629
Location: Salem, OR
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Quote:
For a car of this vintage, the circuit you want can probably fit on one page. (For my 1964, the entire car fit into 3 pages.)


The crude diagram fits on 2 pages... the field service manual for 1973 will be similar to 1967-1972 since it uses the same fuse block.
Sadly, because of the added options of heated window defrosters, map light circuit, etc... the FSM wiring diagram will cover about 6-8
pages. The bad part, is that 1973-1974 FSM's aren't cheap because they cover the Barracuda/Challenger E-body and people think they
are gold...FYI.

On an A-body, check the ground at the instrument cluster, and check the ground at the headlight harness near the battery tray.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2019 8:28 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Sat Jun 09, 2007 7:20 am
Posts: 238
Location: Portland, Or.
Car Model*: '64 Valiant Convertible
X2 on ground issue. Clean and check for tightness the headlight and dash cluster ground wires.

And remember your car is over 40 years old. The previous owner{s) probably never monkeyed with any of the wiring before you got it.


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