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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 11:52 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun May 21, 2017 2:27 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Berthoud Colorado
Car Model*:
Howdy, I've got a quick question. I'm replacing the ignition switch & cylinder in my wife's '63 / Town wagon.

Long story to a short one my 'option' at this point is to go with a 4 pronged male terminal equipped switch versus the original (?) 5 pronged 'threaded' terminal switch.

So my question for the Sages is this; does everything that went to Ignition 1 & 2 now just get plugged into the single connection marked 'ignition' (and everything will work).?.? This does not include the wire for the starter, this still has its own terminal.

thanks in advance as always!

Cris


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 3:02 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''

Joined: Sun May 21, 2017 2:27 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Berthoud Colorado
Car Model*:
Here's a little background info. I put a new starter in a couple months back.
Right away I noticed a deadspot where there wouldn't be any clicking, and no whirring away
of the starter itself when the key was turned. Talked to the local Napa guy that I've known for about 15 years now.
He said it probably wasn't the starter itself but a bad contact withing the system. I'd cleaned
and electric greased everything when I had it all apart so I really didn't think it was that.
After a couple of trips out and about over the next month it seemed to be getting worse.

So I bit the bullet and bought a Napa replacement 5 'lugged' switch and tumbler. Switched all the
ends of my/her wiring to the appropriate female spades and worked it back thru the dash hole. It was then I found out that my old lock it down trim ring wasn't fitting on the new & improved so I couldn't secure it to the dash. No ring came with the new one, so I'm (and the lock) is left hanging.

My guy @ Napa says there's 2 lock cylinder trim rings (for $1.97 each and about 15 in shipping) in their supply chain but he can't tell me if it'll fit....., so I said screw that and bought the Plan B from Summit, it's a Ron Francis part. I did spend about 50 miles worth of gas at the biggest hardware store in the area trying to 'specialty engineer' something up but no joy.

Thanks for listening.!
Cris


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2019 12:54 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 7:57 am
Posts: 126
Location: Lawrenceville, GA
Car Model*: 1966 Dodge Dart
The original switch had two separate "ignition" terminals to allow the ballast resistor to be bypassed during starting. Combining the two terminals would result in bypassing the ballast resistor full time - if you haven't swapped to a different ignition that does not use a ballast resistor. You could run the "ignition 1" terminal to the ignition terminal on the new switch; this would leave the ballast resistor operational while cranking, which isn't ideal.

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Matt Cramer
1966 Dodge Dart turbo / EFI project


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 19, 2019 9:29 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 23776
Location: North America
Car Model*:
Wait a sec, hold on.

You bought one new part on the say-so of a counterman at a parts store geared to the needs of the 4- to 14-year-old vehicles that make up ninety-something percent of the on-road population. This counterman, whatever his charms might be, gets called on to provide parts for vehicles like yours approximately zero times per decade, and he isn't helped by his computer system which almost certainly lumps your truck in with all the rest of the pre-whatever-year-it-stops-listing-specific-applications Dodges, if it even "helps" that much.

The part doesn't fit. This is not a surprise. Now your counterman thinks he might have a line on what he thinks might be a ring that might sorta fit this switch and might sorta fit your truck, maybe. Uh...no, maybe not.

What's a surprise is that you take this one not-very-well-thought-out attempt as the end of the effort to do the job right, and now you want advice on how to hack in some piece of junk "universal" switch. Okeh, but you are what you eat, and your truck is what you install in it: keep it up and your truck will be a hacked piece of junk.

If that's not what you want, you'll need to change the way you shop for parts. You cannot reasonably expect to walk in a parts store and get the right parts for a truck as old as yours, at least not without doing a great deal of homework on your own, and even then mostly not. Try Old Car Parts Northwest (Renton, Washington), Cowger's Ignition (Ebay), Elderly Auto Parts (West Linn, Oregon), and any of the numerous other good places to buy real parts for old vehicles.

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