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 Post subject: Correct diagram or not?
PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2019 8:14 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 58
Location: NC
Car Model*: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
Planning on changing the headlights to relays since I have headlight flicker after updating all my ignition etc. my headlights and instrument lights flicker. Is the right diagram or do I need to look more?


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2019 10:17 am 
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That diagram is from my website. It's for a 4-headlamp car; the linked page also has the correct diagram for a 2-headlamp car. Also see here.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 14, 2019 11:31 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
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Location: NC
Car Model*: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
SlantSixDan wrote:
That diagram is from my website. It's for a 4-headlamp car; the linked page also has the correct diagram for a 2-headlamp car. Also see here.


Thanks Dan :D


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2020 7:52 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
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Location: NC
Car Model*: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
So after I put the lights on relays I’m still getting the high quick flicker. When I rev it some it either goes away or is to fast to see. What am I missing? Is something else wrong? Grounds are clean and tight.

Edit. The harness I have hooks to the battery and not the alt. Is this perhaps the problem? Also the dash lights do the same thing :(


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2020 10:16 am 
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tattoosteve99 wrote:
So after I put the lights on relays I’m still getting the high quick flicker. When I rev it some it either goes away or is to fast to see. What am I missing?


Your charging system needs attention.

Quote:
The harness I have hooks to the battery and not the alt. Is this perhaps the problem?


No. Tell us about your charging system. Is this a '69-down single-field system, or a '70-up dual-field? What are you running for an alternator (old original, "remanufactured" from the parts store, something else)? For a regulator? Please post pics.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2020 7:15 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 58
Location: NC
Car Model*: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
I did the upgrade to the charging system as detailed here in the forum. I believe it was your post Dan, can’t remember exactly. Also have changed over to HEI as per your post as well (runs way better too!)
Voltage reg is a new one, alt is a standard ac Delco reman. Charging system works great as such. As I said though it flickers at idle and goes away when accelerating or cruising.

Edit. It’s a 78 dodge truck. So 70’s and up system.


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 4:05 pm 
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tattoosteve99 wrote:
I did the upgrade to the charging system as detailed here in the forum. I believe it was your post Dan, can’t remember exactly.


I'm Guessing you might mean you ran two 10ga wires, fused at each end, from the alternator's output stud to battery +...but I've posted over 23,000 posts to this board, including a fair number about charging systems, so I don't know for sure which one you mean.

Quote:
Voltage reg is a new one


A new one what? What brand, what part number?

Quote:
alt is a standard ac Delco reman


That last word ("reman") makes it a suspect in this case.

If you'd like to grasp at a quick fix to see if you get lucky, run a ground wire from the alternator housing (many of them have a "GND" or "GRD" hole on the back—use a short screw so you don't jam the rotor or do other damage) to the voltage regulator base, and from the regulator base to the battery negative terminal.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 11:33 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
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Location: NC
Car Model*: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
SlantSixDan wrote:
tattoosteve99 wrote:
I did the upgrade to the charging system as detailed here in the forum. I believe it was your post Dan, can’t remember exactly.


I'm Guessing you might mean you ran two 10ga wires, fused at each end, from the alternator's output stud to battery +...but I've posted over 23,000 posts to this board, including a fair number about charging systems, so I don't know for sure which one you mean.
Can’t remember right off hand but I did it when my ammeter burned up.
Quote:
Voltage reg is a new one


A new one what? What brand, what part number?
Not sure. Standard brand I believe it was

Quote:
alt is a standard ac Delco reman


That last word ("reman") makes it a suspect in this case.

If you'd like to grasp at a quick fix to see if you get lucky, run a ground wire from the alternator housing (many of them have a "GND" or "GRD" hole on the back—use a short screw so you don't jam the rotor or do other damage) to the voltage regulator base, and from the regulator base to the battery negative terminal.

This I have already done.
I’ll try to get some details soon


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2020 11:38 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 58
Location: NC
Car Model*: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
This thread dan. I did the fields relay for the alternator

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=15779

Heavy duty charging I believe is what was said


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 2:26 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

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Posts: 58
Location: NC
Car Model*: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
Well I have a gremlin as well. It runs but has a misfire that shows up and then goes away. Also after doing some wire “giggling” I noticed that the wire on my regulator is funky. I giggled it and it full fielded. So I cut it off right quick. At least I know my alt is working. Also my regulator is hot. Not as hot as the older I took off was so that’s also a sign to me. These gremlins are getting on my nerves. Most of my wiring has been gone through and checked several times for shorts etc. Nothing has been found yet. I am going to reground and check all the grounds again.
As dan asked. Yes the alt is grounded through a wire. The volt reg is as well but neither of these are going to the battery which will be solved soon, after I fix the reg full field problem. Also I’ve been using the search function and found some other things to try as well. Dan, the volt reg is a standard motor products with a adjustable pot. The alt is part #3342089 ac delco. The reg is
PREMIUM VOLTAGE REGULATOR MADE BY TRANSPO no way to know the number sorry. Found it. Vr125t


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 3:07 pm 
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Don't buy T-suffix parts from Standard (the green-box "Tru-Tech" items are their cheap "value line" items). Maybe get a real Chrysler regulator (and maybe a better, non-"remanufactured" new alternator) from Old Car Parts Northwest.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 3:43 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 58
Location: NC
Car Model*: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
SlantSixDan wrote:
Don't buy T-suffix parts from Standard (the green-box "Tru-Tech" items are their cheap "value line" items). Maybe get a real Chrysler regulator (and maybe a better, non-"remanufactured" new alternator) from Old Car Parts Northwest.


Well this issue now is it’s full fielding all the time when plugged into the VR. Didn’t do this till I giggled the wire at the VR. So now I have to fix that before I can do anything else. Hope I didn’t fry the alt but it was only on for few seconds before I caught it. I also checked another VR and it’s doing the same thing.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2020 6:27 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 08, 2017 2:06 pm
Posts: 58
Location: NC
Car Model*: 78’ dodge D100 slant six
tattoosteve99 wrote:
SlantSixDan wrote:
Don't buy T-suffix parts from Standard (the green-box "Tru-Tech" items are their cheap "value line" items). Maybe get a real Chrysler regulator (and maybe a better, non-"remanufactured" new alternator) from Old Car Parts Northwest.


Well this issue now is it’s full fielding all the time when plugged into the VR. Didn’t do this till I giggled the wire at the VR. So now I have to fix that before I can do anything else. Hope I didn’t fry the alt but it was only on for few seconds before I caught it. I also checked another VR and it’s doing the same thing.


Well that was not fun but I actually fixed both the flicker and the VR. Apparently the wire came loose which was also causing the flicker. It will NOT come loose again as I soldered it like nasa does it’s wiring. So now both issues with that are gone and now I move on to the misfire issue that comes and goes :(


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