What should have been a quick distributor swap has left me more confused than any other job on my car. First off, I have a 1966 Dart with the original 225 slant. It was running and driving great but I had an DUI TriPower two-wire dizzy laying around from another engine so I decided to put that in.

Removal went smooth, I took pictures to match rotor and wiring back up. Got it it all put back together with the coil and wires included with the tri-power kit, and no dice when trying to start. Cranks, but not fire. Didn't have the time to fiddle with the system so I disconnected it all and put the just-removed distributor back in. Wired and connected based off my removal pictures, but now it cranks and no sparks. With the distributor that worked just hours before!

Had time to troubleshoot yesterday and here is where I stand:
- reset distributor to TDC by removing plugs and lining #1 at top
of compression stroke
- currently has Pertronix ignitor 2 that ran in the distributor. Cleaned and regapped, and tightened.
- no start even with jumper cable from Battery(+) to Coil (+)
- with key on, 12.5 volts in dark blue wire at Coil (-), can get it to
spark when jumpered to ground
- coil resistance 1.8ohms for primary and 9,500 ohms secondary
- cleaned and tightened grounds from battery to block and ignition relay to transmission

In conclusion, car cranks well but has no power at the distributor. How do I test the Pertronix ignitor 2 unit? And is there a way to know if I have a weird grounding issues?

Choosing an ignition system is like driving in traffic this way: do everything you can to avoid getting a DUI! It's just that the traffic kind involves getting pinched for driving while impaired by alcohol or drugs, and the ignition kind involves getting conned out of money for a scammy ignition system which, until it fails, doesn't do what is claimed.

So, just like about 2 weeks ago when the battery in my car came up lame one block from a parts store under circumstances that make me think the universe was lookin' out for me, perhaps this what you describe is the universe politely saying "Nah, mate, y'don'wanna know about that DUI rubbish; chuck it in the skip here in the convenience of your own droiveway say'don't hafta do it boy the soida the roayd in the daahk" (don't ask me why the universe has an Australian accent; I don't make the rules).

Pertronix is one of several much-more-recommendable, much-less-scammy ignition systems; another is HEI.

What happens if you finish removing the Tri-Power stuff and go back to the coil and wires that were in the car before you started this whole operation?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the quick reply Dan.

Luckily I have two car with Slants, so I tried the points distributor out of my running 65 Valiant engine, and it didn't start the 66 either. Stabbed the points dizzy into the valiant again and it started right up. Confusing me pretty bad.

As the car sits right now, the previously running Pertronix unit/ wires/ and coil are in and wired the same as before I removed. It has the same symptoms now, with crank no spark.

My top two suspects are your ignition switch and the ignition system's primary wiring. Yes, even though you tried a jumper. One thing you might try: turn the ignition switch ON, then go under the hood and operate the starter with a screwdriver across the two starter terminals or the two big starter relay terminals. Now does it start/do you have spark?

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I'll give it a try tomorrow and let you know. Thanks

It could be a long shot,

But check the firewall bulkhead connections.

I had a similar issue on my '64 Dart. Had spark when cranking but no spark when the key was released to the "run"position.

Take those terminals apart and clean them real good / remove the oxidation and corrosion that has built up.

This can be difficult to diagnose and find.

Good luck,

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack

Got it going! Super unsatisfying because there was no AHA! moment, but running nonetheless.

No luck with your ignition post jumper idea Dan. I ended up taking the starter solenoid out, cleaning connections, and actuated it with a 9v battery. Put everything back the same way after that and got spark out of the coil.

Car will definitely need some wiring love soon, but running for now. Thanks for the help