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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2023 8:07 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5606
Location: Downeast Maine
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It's single conductor and slides over the #10 threaded stud of the sending unit. I haven't been able to locate one of the correct size. Ford uses one, I ordered it, but it fits a smaller stud. I know someone makes them as I purchased a new rear wiring harness for the Dart a few years ago, and it had one.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2023 8:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 16514
Location: Blacksburg, VA
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I always replace these with a ring terminal. If worried about corrsion, use a nut on top and bottom so you do not twist the sender stud when trying to remove it later.

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2023 8:43 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:25 pm
Posts: 5606
Location: Downeast Maine
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I have used the eye and nut method before. Plug and play is easier than nut and bolt where the plug has some moisture sealing capabilities. This is for my IH pickup truck project with an under cab fuel tank mounted to the outside of the chassis frame just aft of the front wheel well.

I just find it odd that these plug pigtails arn't' easily found for sale.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.

82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp

07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC



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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2024 6:11 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Fri Jun 29, 2012 12:26 pm
Posts: 68
Location: At My Desk
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Yeah, right now I've got the old boot that's disintegrating on the lower lip that goes over the terminal and so I lathered it with liquid electrical tape. :lol:

I was thinking of going with a pico wiring boot and putting a 1 layer wrap of silicone tape to create the lip till I can find a real one. :|

The terminal ring mentioned before sounds good! I wonder if a (wait for it...cringing...) Chevy alt. B+ boot might work to seal it up. :wink:

74

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