Thanks for that info, CNC Dude! I'll hold of on calling Clark 'til I hear more information from you.

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Hi, I am not an expert, but do have a ton of stories.....Started running an o'ring block about 10 years ago. No receiver groove in the head, 3.5 bore, arp studs. The o'ring was set to the outside edge of a felpro copper ring in case I had to run a felpro in an emergency. A felpro has been run on that block with about a 100hp shot of nitrous and held fine. The edge of the bore at the top corner started to degrade so the new block has the o'ring moved out further.I may have been wearing from repeated rebuilds I will try to get a picture. I have used clark and sce gaskets. I spray them with copper coat 30 min before install. Clean the block and head with lacquer thinner. With the turbo I have blown 2 head gaskets. Every thing worked fine on the chassis dyno. 15 lbs of boost. I hope to double check everything in the next couple of weeks. I have been down after foot surgery and the car has cob webs on it. .?? I will get out there and get some pictures for Random Racing soon! They have blown on different cylinders.

Will

old block o'ring


with felpro


new block o'ring a little further out

Will, what gasket and O-Ring material were you using when these last two head gaskets blew, and do you know the cause? Is there a permanent fix for this?

Thanks for the pictures!!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

.050 copper gaskets, stainless o'ring. Don't know the cause yet. I have a couple of ideas, we will see.
Will

Thanks Will!!!

I am having nothing but major grief in trying to get O-Rings installed in this block.

It seems the Stainless .041" wire is so big (fat) it won't go down into the groove, but the new .039" is just small enough that once it's in there, it won't "stick." Comes loose at the slightest provocation.

I worked on that %#@&$*!!! all day today and the ONLY successful operation I was able to accomplish was using the .038" COPPER wire they (Isky) sent with the cutter, PUSHING it down into the groove and using some scotch tape in it to keep it positioned (!)... many pieces... like 12 pieces of tape, per-hole,

I don't WANT to use copper wire, but nothing else works for me.

I double checked the cutter's depth adjustment and after cutting all six grooves, the cutter showed no sign of dulling and, checking the depth of the cuts, resulted in my ascertaining that they were ALL.030"-deep, all the way around.... no more, no less.

I am going to buy an extra Fel Pro gasket (they only make one part number) and install it. Once it's torqued down on these copper wires, I am going to remove the head and examine the fire ring area of that head gasket CLOSELY, in the area where it contacts the O-Ring, as well as the "used" copper O-Rings to determine if they have distorted and/or flattened on top (due to the compression from the torque) so they can't form an effective high unit-loading area on that fire ring.

If it looks okay (I have my doubts) I will put it back together with the copper/Fel Pro system and try it. It seems to work for Aaron; maybe it will work for me.

If it doesn't hold at, say, 15 pounds of boost, I will have to figure something else out to use.

Wish me luck....

Bill in Conway, Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Put some hylomar in the groove with the .039 wire

If you have problems finding it, you can get it at a Harley Davidson dealer.......

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Thanks; I will definitely try that!

Bill (pulling his hair out...)

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Tried Hylomar BLUE and found it not QUITE sticky enough, so I did THIS:

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=173401

FINALLY an M.O. that works like charm... Just took some trial and error... LOTS of error... LOL!


Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

I have the head ready to go back on the motor, but have a question for anyone who has experience with O-Rings.

What is the allowable gap in the O-ring where the ends meet, or is there one? I have one O-ring installed that has about a .015"-gap between the two ends.

Is that going to give me problems with this Fel Pro gasket? Is there ANY gap allowed, or do they all have to be butted solidly together at the ends?

I need to know, so I can fix this gap problem while the head is off the block.

Thanks for any information!!!

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Try to get the gaps on the o-rings as close together as possible, but I think your bigger problem is going to be trying to run o-rings with the Fel-pro gasket, that type of gasket type is not compatible with o-ringed blocks or heads.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

I've been running A fel-pro gasket with copper wire o-ring for wire for two years on limited duty but the motor has seen up too 18psi of boost and some minor detention with absolutely no signs of head lift or water in the oil. Maybe that will change but until I see a problem ill keep running the felpro gasket.

Bill it was explained to me to cut your ends of the wire at a 45° cut on both ends and match the angles so they meet with no gap, also I tired not to have the cut ends in between the cylinder bore's.
Aaron

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA



http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

Here's a couple pics of mine
Aaron

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA



http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

This is on a standard bore slant. There's alot of the BMW guys that do a figure 8 pattern and intersect the grooves between the bore and run only one long piece of wire that only leaves two ends to mate together ill try and find a pic on the net and ill post it
Aaron

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA



http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611