Disregard that statement in the last post after further thought there's no possible way to only run one piece of wire! But here's a couple pics of the grooves overlapping

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

It looks like from your pic that your o-ring placement is outside the fire ring of the head gasket.

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There's no such thing as too much cam....only not enough engine!

CNC dude if this response is for me I had the head off after I clamped it down to check that and on all six cylinders the O Ring was making contact with the fire ring. Thanks thou

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA



http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

My phone likes to double post for some unknown reason so ill add this. When I first O ringed the block I had a hussey copper gasket to use. After a couple tries at getting to seal up with zero positive results I tried the felpro gasket and so far I haven't had any problems

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http://youtu.be/2Y4i4UOLiSA



http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/sho ... p?t=126611

Thanks Aaron. I have seen the figure eight setup, but we had a lot more room than that, so went with six individual O-Rings...

I appreciate the input!!!

Bill

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Update: Had an interesting day with the O-Rings.

I ground the "backend-probe" (the little part that sticks out the rear, when you open the jaws of a digital caliper,) thin enough to fit inside the O-Ring grooves, so I could measure the ACTUAL depth of the grooves and found that...

MOST were not .030"-deep like they were supposed to be. This Isky cutter is a learned art... by that I mean it cannot be depended upon to give you O-Ring grooves of a consistent depth unless you check the grooves constantly as they are being cut.

I had some grooves that were as shallow as .012" but, NONE over .030"-deep, so that was not a problem.

No wonder I had trouble getting the wire to stay in the grooves; I was oblivious to the fact that even though the cutter seemed to be THROUGH cutting, the depth of the groove had not been cut to the "required" depth.

Once the groove was consistent at .030" -deep. the wire went right in and stayed.

I need to pay MORE ATTENTION!!!!

Can't believe I made a stupid mistake like that... but, I did. SEVERAL TIMES!!!

I got three of them policed-up, and cut to the consistent, correct depths, today. The grooves are .030"-deep; the wire is .039." The groove-width is .041".

Tomorrow, I will finish cutting the other three, and install the wire.

We decided to use the copper wire that came with the kit, because of the Fel-Pro fire-ring material; it seemed the stainless steel wire might cut right through the fire ring; I don't think the copper wire will; it's too soft. The stainless wire is really tough, even after having been annealed.

They say "confession is good for the soul."

Why don't I feel good, now?

Stupidity is its own reward???

Guess so...

Bill in Conway, Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Well, after much careful measuring and even more cutting with the (Isky) groovemaster tool, , the (copper) O-Rings are in with NO end gaps, the head is on, torqued down (90-foot pounds on 220,000-psi custom studs) and the valves are adjusted.

Now, we can start re-assembling the rest of the engine, the headers, intake manifold, turbo and accessories. Should be running in a week, or so...

Wish us luck!

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904