Hi From South Australia, New to the forum and the slant scene. looking at turbo charging a slant 225 as I have never played around with turbo's.
The vehicle is a 1965 Chrysler Valiant AP6 safari station wagon. (A body)
The previous owner passed away before he could finish it and the car has sat unfinished for 5 years in a shed and the engine has never been started or even driven
Would love to finish the car but not sure what turbo and bits I require to suit this engine combo . Any help would be great if possible and pointing me in the right direct in sourcing bits would great too.
Engine specs and what parts I have:
1965 225 slant
Bored 60 thou
line bored .005"
crank ,rods prepped,deburred, bead blasted and all balanced
Mopar performance cast pistons part no p4529417 (60")
Camshaft Mopar performance solid tappet part no p4286681
276/276/64' duration, valve lift .490 centreline 106'
Head has larger valves fitted, slightly ported, k liners fitted
Rollmaster timing chain -advanced 2 degrees
Offenhauser alloy 4 barrel manifold with a holley 650
High volume oil pump and a modified deep sump. Osberg oil filter system
904 with a manual valve body and reverse shift pattern 2800 stall
fORD 9 inch 4.11 lsd.
Thanks Rino

There may be better combinations than a slant six and a turbocharger, but I can't think of a single one, offhand... sort of like eggs and bacon, peaches and cream and beer 'n' pretzels... Meant to go together!!!

Few combinations work as well to enhance the output of a slant six as a well-chosen hairdryer, and you seem to be off to a really good start with the items you have collected, so far.

There are some things about this particular "hop-up" that do not seem to work well with "traditional" hot rodding practices, but nothing difficult-to-understand nor hard to fathom.... most of the hardware you have already in your possession should work well with your combination, I would think.

Your desired final performance numbers will dictate a few items such as camshaft duration and lift, and the degree to which you desire to intercool and water/alky spray the incoming air charge, and the rpm range you choose to employ, but a satisfying motor in terms of output should be a very straightforward build with the parts you already have.

I am probably too inexperienced in building motors like this one to be giving advice like this, but in my limited experience, I have learned that ONE thing turbocharged slant sixes really don't like, is overlap. That phenomenon occurs when both intake and exhaust valves of one cylinder are both open at the same time. Long-duration cams use that (overlap) to enhance breathing on normally-aspirated engines at high rpm. The numbers you see on successful turbocharged slant sixes usually display specifications such as, for example, 215 degrees of duration for both intake and exhaust valves @ .050," give or take 5-degrees. The cam you have in your possession has appropriate duration numbers for a normally-aspirated motor that is expected to make good power at 4,000 rpm. but would not work well with forced induction.

One advantage of this situation is that turbo motors, as a result of this, cannot have much lift, as a result of their small-duration... and, this makes possible the scenario wherein some fairly weak valve springs will work well... which enhances camshaft longevity. It makes possible a valve train that won't be exposed to a lot of valve spring pressure, or high rpm's as a matter of course, so stock, or nearly-stock pushrods and rocker arms won't be in jeopardy (as they might be in a naturally-aspirated, hjgh rpm engine's, environment.)

The thing about turbo's is, once you determine how much power you want to develop, you can set limits on boost that will give you just that output, and by-pass the expensive stuff. Stock pistons are said to be pretty much all you'll ever need if you set your boost limit to ten pounds. Ditto for stock rods, and the crank, particularly, if it's an older, forged unit.

You can, for example, make an easy 250 horsepower with 10 pounds of boost, and likely 300, if you employ alcohol-water injection. That is strictly MY opinion; other's mileage may vary...

The expensive part of turbocharging a slant six comes when you decide you REALLY want to make 500 horsepower, and decide that it's going to take 25+pounds of boost to make that. In order to have an engine that can live under that kind of stress. it's going to take forged piston$, forged rod$, and some expen$ive head work (to make the power)... to say nothing of carb modification$ (or, EFI) so its the old game of "speed costs money; how fast do you want to go???"

It's way better to make that call going in, than later-on.

You have a great head-start with that assortment of parts you have right now.

Give it some thought and get back to us. Believe me when I say, there are people on this board who have FORGOTTEN more than I will ever know about this... Hopefully, some of them will chime in...

But, you're gonna have tons of FUN with this... that's the only thing I know for sure...

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904

Thanks Bill for the reply. The engine is complete and never been started. Will need to pull it apart and start from scratch.
In theory if I wanted the engine to produce 300hp maybe 350hp ?What do I need to fit and have to do to achieve this amount of horse power.
Keep the cast pistons or fit forged?
Replace cam shaft and fit what ?
Change diff ratio to a lower ratio
honestly never played with anything turbo charged apart from a diesel turbo.

That cam has too much duration for a turbo motor; you'll need one with about 210 degrees, or maybe 220 duration @ .050"-lift, ground with 115 degrees of lobe separation, with about .470"-.480"-lift. Ours is Bulllet brand.

The pistons will live longer if you replace the stock, cast ones with some forged units. Wiseco has a piston that is sized for an .065"-overbore (3.465"-234 cubic inches) that they sell in conjunction with some H-beam 198 rods (just over 7"-long) that employ a contemporary-design, low-drag ring package that a lot of folks use, and provide better insurance against detonation than cast...

If you ever plan to run more than ten pounds of boost, I highly recommend them if you can afford that piston/rod/ring package at all.

Our compression ratio (measured) is 9:1 with that combination.... just right, methinks.

Boosted slant sixes have a strange personality when it comes to rear axle ratios.... they seem to LIKE to be held back (not unlike a "FUEL" motor,) and tests have shown them running quicker in the quarter-mile with rear gears in the 2.76-2.93 range than 4.10s. That's a blessing; you have a "one-ratio-fits-all" situation that makes it possible to use a Spicer-type, cheap, junkyard-available, 8.25" housing (with the included ring-and-pinion) out of a late model A-body or M-body, usually just bolting it in, instead of opting for a more-expensive 8.75" drop-out unit, (so that changing ratios for the strip and highway would have been easy... ) no need for that with this motor.

Money saved...

More, later...

Bill in Conway, Arkansas

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1964 Valiant 4-door sedan, 225 turbo/904