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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:15 am 
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TBI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Sep 18, 2012 12:02 pm
Posts: 126
Location: Lincoln, NE
Car Model*:
Absolutely stunning in every way.

Do you have details that you can share about the long block? Head work? Piston selection? Cam? Compression? Long/Std Rods?

Did I miss these somewhere?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 11:51 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:32 pm
Posts: 78
Location: Sweden
Car Model*: Valiant -66 turbo
Thanks Kev,

My boost pressure was also rock solid before. I will try without the extension pipe . Or try with a bigger size.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2015 2:16 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:32 pm
Posts: 78
Location: Sweden
Car Model*: Valiant -66 turbo
the_engineers wrote:

Do you have details that you can share about the long block? Head work? Piston selection? Cam? Compression? Long/Std Rods?

Did I miss these somewhere?


Thanks alot,

Her is some big secrets..:-)

The block is bored 0.60 with standard pistons. Just little bigger end gap.
I also did a o ring job with stainless rings together with the Aussiespeed big bore gasket.
The rods are the stock one.
The head is ported by myself, with engine builder oversize valves, bronse valve guides and harder valvesprings.
The head is shaved 0.059 inches, (ment for a NA engine ) but after porting the chambers i have checked the chamber size, and it was about 50- 52 cc.
I think its about 8.5- 9:1 in compression ratio.
when i checked the compression pressure it was 150 psi
when the block was still empty i put the head on and turned it upside down. And with a lamp and small mirror i checked and ported the head around the chamber so it perfectly matched the bores.
And i also had to touch the cylinder bore, because of little to much valve unscrouding at the head...
The runners in the head is ported slightly bigger than stock gasket holes,also into the intake as far as i could reach. about 2 inches.
The intake and head also have dowels and holes to make sure of the exact possition.
My exhaust manifold are the stock cast iron , but ported and modified.

Here is the flow diagram for the head
28"


Stock
in out
0.100 54 - 51
0.200 95 - 84
0.300 123- 99
0.400 131- 105
0.500 136- 107

ported

0.100 69- 54
0.200 115- 94
0.300 156- 121
0.400 169- 137
0.500 173- 140

The camshaft is a Howard stock 256 220@ 0.473 lift with 110 lsa

The exhaust system is 3 inch from the turbo, and then it splits into two
2 1/2
and go into the muffler. The last part over the rear axle is a single 3 inch pipe. Quite free flowing.
Hope there was anything interesting . Its Always fun to see engine - car build spec

Have a nice day or night..
Thomas


Last edited by Thomas S on Tue Feb 10, 2015 5:44 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2015 3:14 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:32 pm
Posts: 78
Location: Sweden
Car Model*: Valiant -66 turbo
Hello,
For the moment the car is waiting for a rebuilt a 904.
I have blown two old gearboxes now , and i dont think a stock one can handle the torque this slant throwing out..
I dont understand how to adjust the kickdown linkage, so the gearbox can work properly.
The engine crank out so much torque when you barely touch the accelerator.
But i dont think the problem was the adjustment of the kickdown linkage .
Because the first time the thin axle going into the torque converter was in two pieces!
This time i dont realy now because the converter was stuck in the gearbox.
But suspect similar causes , because of a loud KA BOOM...
The transmission shop tell me to try a manual valve body

I have spent some time doing some mods.


Aluminum heat shield for cables ( after a gasket leak some of the injector cable insulation was melting. )
Image

Heat shield for air filter
Image[/img]

Heat shields for pressurelines
Image

And a oil catch tank for the crankhouse ventilation (not finished yet)
Image

Thomas


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Feb 07, 2015 6:42 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:32 pm
Posts: 78
Location: Sweden
Car Model*: Valiant -66 turbo
I also did some fuel tank mods.A little box is welded under the tank. And i drilled a new hole close to the sender unit and put a an8 connection through with a an8 hose down to the new box.
And in the end of that a wrist pin from a slant 6... :wink:
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2015 8:29 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:32 pm
Posts: 78
Location: Sweden
Car Model*: Valiant -66 turbo
More pics , heatshield again :wink: Slant 6 the hottest engine ever...
The shields have helped alot to lower the temperature at the intake.
Image

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 8:29 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:32 pm
Posts: 78
Location: Sweden
Car Model*: Valiant -66 turbo
Hi slanters,
I am soon finish with my "new" engine. I had problem with a crack in the block. Tried to weld it but it was expanding . Never ending problem.. :(
But now i have a new bored fresh block. I use my old piston ( aftermarked )and rods with new rings,
I have done some improvements to, in the oil pan for example.

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/067_zpsnmntouum.jpg[/img][/img]

I hope it can keep the oil were i want it..

Here are some pics of my new exhaust, without any need for welding ( in the cast parts)

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/028_zpsss2hrgxb.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/030_zps2wvrlv40.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/032_zpstydypt6a.jpg[/img][/img]

A pics from the inside of the cylinder..

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/051_zpspmdnbfna.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/057_zps7zb2z8hg.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/060_zpsa6wyzoxk.jpg[/img][/img]

As you now the piston in the slant 6 stops quite far down in the bore. So its no problem to use that for unschrouding .
The valve ( oversize enginebuilder ) is quite close to the cylinder wall, so i think this will improve the flow
The head gasket on the pics its the big bore from Aussiespeed
I had this improvement also on my present Engine, and it was running very good..

Here are one pics at the injector in the runner


[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/044_zpsqkl0ejox.jpg[/img][/img]

New rims (homemade) Its 8*15 from a Chevy van.
I cut loose the center and turned it insideout. and weld it back were i wanted it

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/023_zpsyajfr2u7.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/027_zpsdmmydjzx.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/026_zpsdh4tyb47.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/040_zpsnezjp6n8.jpg[/img][/img]

[img][img]http://i1332.photobucket.com/albums/w615/wascator2/039_zpsjqe0b9fv.jpg[/img][/img]

Have a nice day Thomas


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2015 10:43 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 13390
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model*:
Looks great, Thomas. I may copy your "no weld" exhaust manifold-to-turbo solution.

Slant on,

Lou

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"You mean you still have a Slant 6 in that thing?"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 15, 2015 8:35 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 5091
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model*:
Nice Fab Work on the Oil Pan also!



Greg

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69 Dart http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2015 7:06 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 13390
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model*:
Observation: I always take a lot of care to make sure the oil can easily flow back down to the sump, by angling the baffles down from all directions. I looks like especially the rear baffle may trap oil from flowing back down, and possibly the front and right side baffles to a lesser extent. Remember that the pan rail angles downward from front to rear.

BTW, I am helping with a Land Speed Racing turbo 170 build and forwarded your pics to my friend who is working on a stock exh manifold for that. Very nice work and pics - thank you.

Happy building,

Lou

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"You mean you still have a Slant 6 in that thing?"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 1:55 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:32 pm
Posts: 78
Location: Sweden
Car Model*: Valiant -66 turbo
Dart270 wrote:
Observation: I always take a lot of care to make sure the oil can easily flow back down to the sump, by angling the baffles down from all directions. I looks like especially the rear baffle may trap oil from flowing back down, and possibly the front and right side baffles to a lesser extent. Remember that the pan rail angles downward from front to rear.

BTW, I am helping with a Land Speed Racing turbo 170 build and forwarded your pics to my friend who is working on a stock exh manifold for that. Very nice work and pics - thank you.

Happy building,

Lou


Hi Lou
Thanks for your opinion, I will think about it , Its not easy to get a view of whats happening there when the engine is running ..
But i hope enough oil find its way back to the bathtub..
:
Sounds very interesting with your friends land speed project. Is it for the Salt lake competition ?
Have a nice day Thomas


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jul 20, 2015 6:13 am 
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Board Sponsor & Moderator
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
Posts: 13390
Location: Blacksburg, VA
Car Model*:
Yes, the car is a 66 Barracuda and has a record in NA "classic production" class @133 MPH. We will run the car at the Bonneville Salt Flats Speed Week in August this year with an improved NA motor (140-150 MPH target), then plan to switch to a turbo motor next year. 150-170 MPH maybe??

Best,

Lou

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"You mean you still have a Slant 6 in that thing?"


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 28, 2015 9:43 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 5091
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model*:
Dart270 wrote:
Observation: I always take a lot of care to make sure the oil can easily flow back down to the sump, by angling the baffles down from all directions. I looks like especially the rear baffle may trap oil from flowing back down, and possibly the front and right side baffles to a lesser extent. Remember that the pan rail angles downward from front to rear.

Lou



Good observation, I did not notice that on the first view.. but it does look kind of flat.. you do want those baffles to return the oil down.


Greg

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69 Dart http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2015 6:28 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 8:39 pm
Posts: 56
Location: littlestown pa
Car Model*:
Looks good

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 06, 2016 3:01 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Feb 09, 2014 12:32 pm
Posts: 78
Location: Sweden
Car Model*: Valiant -66 turbo
Long time no see.. But i am still on the track :-)

I didnt use my car last summer because of cash flow problems.. And big need for more parts
Now its running, but so far without turbo. Quite interesting experience to drive it NA.
Under 2000 rpm i dont need any neckrest :-) , then it start build Power. And feels Quite strong untill about 4500 rpm.
I have 2.93 rear and have 235-60-15 tire so i cant expect it to be a missile from standstill..
But its fast on first gear 52 mph about..
Its really fantastic what a turbo can do. I cant wait to finish it now..
And the next time with about 22 psi. When i dynoed it at 14.4 psi i got 323 hp. And that time the throttle was just open 75 %. Because the mecanism wasnt finish

Here are some pics at some upgrades.
New copper manifold gasket, (ebay) after much trial and error its finally working..


[img]
Image[/img]


My new adapter, bolt on to the cutted exhaust manifold. ( not welded )
Homemade copper gasket here


Image

New cooler to the transmission ( a904 with manual shiftkit and preparation to survive Power and torque... )

Image

Happy new year Boost on... Thomas
Image


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