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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 12:00 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
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You recommend, any particular type of pump? Obviously only need something that would put out 20-25psi.
And its a boost referenced regulator with a return line to the tank, correct?

Got few more things done in the past few days.
Got the carb some what mounted, and the adapter plate fit perfectly, I was happy I didn't have to go back to get it milled out more!
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I made my own bead roller lol. Worked better that I thought.
Took a few trials of how much to crimp it. It also went faster than I thought, guess cause the pipe is fairly thin.
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Then got the 180* clamped down where I want them.
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I got around to heat wrapping the exhaust piping.
Made sure it was pulled tight as I could go, then used some stainless straps to secure it. In the pic I used some tie wraps to temp hold it until I got the straps on. Turned out great, seeing as I've never wrapped anything before, so lets hope it works!
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Wanting to get as much done as I can, as were taking off for some vacation time and wont be back till April, then its spring and I should be driving it soon!!

If I can get my oil lines all hooked up, I think I will try and fire it up and see if there are any leaks or anything.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 09, 2016 6:43 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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mopar225 wrote:
You recommend, any particular type of pump? Obviously only need something that would put out 20-25psi.
And its a boost referenced regulator with a return line to the tank, correct?


im running the walbro inline 255. i like it. its pretty quiet and hasnt given me any trouble yet. i have it mounted on the frame where it straightens out in front of the rear.

the mallory 4309 and aeromotive 13301 are pretty good boost referenced regulators. ive seen a lot of people run them and not heard anything bad. yes a return line to the tank. you can tap into the fill tube if you wanted to.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2016 6:42 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
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Ok thanks.
I will check those out!

I have a External wastegate question, either Im not searching for the right question or I'm not understanding it.

I tried testing the spring pressure, buy hooking up an airline to the bottom of the WG, while having a gauge inline and slowly increasing air pressure.
The WG fully opened at like 25-30 psi, and that was with the small spring that was supplied.
I'm really wanting it to open at like 3psi esp for tuning purposes then running a manual boost controller to increase press as I tune.
Can the spring be cut?
The way I'm testing it, not the correct way?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 12, 2016 8:08 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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gotta take into account that unless your turbo's hot side is massively undersized that the wastegate is not gonna open completely. as soon as it cracks its bleeding off pressure. at what psi does it begin to open?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 12:40 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
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Junior wrote:
gotta take into account that unless your turbo's hot side is massively undersized that the wastegate is not gonna open completely. as soon as it cracks its bleeding off pressure. at what psi does it begin to open?


Its a 60mm WG. Says the smaller spring is 5psi.
I will try another pressure gauge, I think I pinned it and might be showing inaccurate now. But it shows it starts opening around 25psi.

Does the size of the line that feeds the WG pressure signal matter? I just had some 1/8" line hooked up for testing.
I will be using 1/4" steel line, hard plumbed to the turbo. Worried rubber may get to hot running along side the exhaust.

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)
1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd
1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)
1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 14, 2016 2:32 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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dang 60mm. i would give that 5psi spring a shot. you can always go back with a boost controller and up the boost. the line shouldnt be that big a deal. its pressure not flow. fwiw i run rubber from the turbo through a boost controller to the turbo. havent had any issues with it yet.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 12:45 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model*:
Is that a good choice for WG size, 60mm? Thought bigger was better when not using full potential of turbo, as this one will put out 25psi? and i'm only using 10-12.

My plan was to use a Boost Controller as I tune to 10psi.

I almost had the car running here the other day, didn't have the throttle cable hooked up, so it was hard to keep it running by myself.
Tomorrow I'll hook up the cable and see if I can get the idle stable!

I see I'll have some work to do on the kickdown linkage. As the super six intake I got didn't come with it. I found a pic of someone who used the original tans rod and just lengthened it and attached to the carb. I'll see if that will work.

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2016 5:03 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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the wastegate should be ok. usually for smaller applications the 38mm suffice. put that 5psi spring in there before you drive it. or even just test the 5psi spring the same way you tried the other one.

when im under the hood and wanna start the car i like using one of these or something like it. hook it up to the big post and small post that the battery cable and ignition wire hook up to on the starter. it can be done with a screwdriver but its not recommended. i also run a electronic ignition. if i gotta shut it off in a hurry i pull the inline fuse under the hood.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-re ... 35448.html

gotta be careful rigging the kick down linkage if its not right it will speed up wear on the transmission. could be worth looking into a lokar setup. if you do some searches here im pretty sure there was a stock cable you can use from a dakota i believe.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2016 5:17 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model*:
Junior wrote:
when im under the hood and wanna start the car i like using one of these or something like it. hook it up to the big post and small post that the battery cable and ignition wire hook up to on the starter. it can be done with a screwdriver but its not recommended. i also run a electronic ignition. if i gotta shut it off in a hurry i pull the inline fuse under the hood.
http://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-re ... 35448.html

Yes that would save time from running inside and out.
I did get the car running, however, could not get the car to idle.
Runs awesome at higher RPMs.
I got the fuel level set in the bowl, set the idle screws to 1.25 turns out, then tried turning them in and out, didn't make much difference. BUT the butterfly plates have hole drilled in each one of them.

I bought it used, but new from a local guy. I'm assuming he drilled the holes in them as you can tell its not from factory. From what I understand, guys do this if their car has a fairly lumpy cam to help with idle...
Im my case I'm thinking that this is not helping me...
I have some other 4bbl carbs sitting around, think I'll try and swap plates see if that helps.


Junior wrote:
gotta be careful rigging the kick down linkage if its not right it will speed up wear on the transmission. could be worth looking into a lokar setup. if you do some searches here im pretty sure there was a stock cable you can use from a dakota i believe.

Yes I hear ya, I had to adjust it with the factory 1bbl as it was not shifting properly when I got the car. I'll see what I can do with lengthening the rod, other wise that cable is a good idea![/quote]

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 9:42 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model*:
So I got a good baseline I believe!
Finally got the car to idle like it should.
NOTE: If you buy a used carb with holes drilled in the butterflies, good idea to plug them with something or replace with new ones!!!
I used some allen set screws, super snug fit.

I got my A/F WB setup temp for finding my idle and part throttle.
Once Idle was set, I was pulling about 16-16.5" vac.
I changed out the PV to 6.5, from 3.5. That all I could find laying around.
So I will have to put in a 8? Its half your vac if I remember?

I put #69 jets in, as it seemed to be running lean when I held throttle half open.
Carb came with #60, I changed them right away to #64, and these 69's seem to be good with no boost.
I must have to jump up alot when I add 3-5psi at first...

Float level set.
Image

This was before I plugged the holes, its at as low of idle I could get.
Don't have a tach installed just yet but assuming like 1500rpm.
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This was after the holes were plugged.
Huge difference, and sounded smooth like it ran before the swap.
The idle screws are 1 full turn out. I started with 1 1/4.
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And after I let it idle a little longer, the A/F dropped a bit. Both readings were with warm engine.
Image

This is all I'm going to get done for awhile now, heading off to where its warm for awhile. Wanted to get the car at a good baseline before I left.

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2016 9:46 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
Car Model*:
Oh and I took a video of the car at idle.
Wasn't sure if I would be able to play it, looks like the link is good!
http://vid1039.photobucket.com/albums/a471/mopar_340/VID_20160217_145107782_zpslmgbsxmk.mp4

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 11:10 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Posts: 745
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i would put that 3.5 pv back in there. when it starts to build boost you dont want a lean spike if you can avoid it. are you running the normal setup or have you devised some kinda boost referenced power valve? the afr at idle is whatever the engine likes.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 11:43 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:31 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Sk, Canada
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Junior wrote:
i would put that 3.5 pv back in there. when it starts to build boost you dont want a lean spike if you can avoid it. are you running the normal setup or have you devised some kinda boost referenced power valve? the afr at idle is whatever the engine likes.


Oh? ok!
I'm running the normal setup no BRPV, something I should look into?
When I change it back to 3.5 and get it pushing air into the carb. Should I go up say 10 jet sizes to start with?

_________________
1967 Dodge Dart GT Convertible, Slant Six. (Currently in Turbo build)

1972 Dodge Demon 340 4 spd

1978 D100 (To be 5.7 Hemi Swap)

1969 Plymouth Barracuda Convertible 340 4spd. (In restore mode)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2016 3:29 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
Car Model*:
Mine idles a bit rich in the low 12's carb is 650 BG DP Demon so it does not behave if I lean idle out anymore than that lol

Kev

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 19, 2016 9:16 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Posts: 745
Car Model*:
if you plan on running more than 8-10 psi i would look into a brpv. the stock setup likes to flutter and not open all the way. you can compensate for that with jets but it will kill any kinda fuel economy. 10 is usually a good safe starting point. if you go the brpv route and open up the power valve channel restrictors accordingly, that can eat a lot of jet so you can go back down. the idea is to use the jets that are going to give you the best driveablity not on boost and use the power valve to give you the extra fuel you will need when on boost. if you do it all with jets it will run horribly rich at partial throttle.

fwiw like 1974dusterkev my car likes the mid to low 12's at idle. im running a 600dp holley, was the same with the 650dp holley i was running. if its parked and not driving i can go leaner but it will stall when i come to a stop.


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