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PostPosted: Mon Feb 05, 2018 7:43 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''
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Joined: Mon Nov 16, 2015 8:41 am
Posts: 32
Location: New York
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kcuf wrote:
yeah if you want to keep it simple get a digital 6 or a msd BTM even if you want to go older non computer control, i'd rather computer personally

as others have said, it is certianly not enough to just set your base timing low, besides the fact you're hurting your power everywhere else by doing that as well, and as an extra tip, i'd be working on running it RICH untill such a time you have it all sealed up and ready to play with mixtures for a boosted setup, not the other way around.... thats how you break things


That MSD BTM looks really cool. I think it's a little bit excessive and pricey for what I'm doing at the moment though. Gotta save the $$ for those forged pistons! Haha

Thanks for the fuel tip. I'll run it rich while I sort out the kinks. Was just worried about blacking up my system with unburned carbons.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 1:02 pm 
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That is what I would do for the short term - weld the stock dizzy mechanical advance mechanism.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 5:23 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2005 6:18 am
Posts: 51
Location: Illinois
Car Model*: 69 Valiant
My 2 cents worth is this:
1. If you want the engine to live with the turbo, you'll have to build it to handle it. Turbo engines require greater clearances on piston ring gaps and piston to bore clearance. The higher heat the turbo adds to the combustion chamber will cause failure if everything's setup fo non-turbo.
2. If you're going to run a carburetor, you're going to have to keep the A/F ratio richer than normal to make up for the poor fuel distribution in the intake manifold. Your going to have some cylinders run leaner than others. The only way to correct the fuel distribution issue is to run multi port EFI.


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