Here’s an update. I got an RT-ENG IVR3 regulator for the D100 because I didn’t trust the fuel gauge regulator after buying a new $$ temperature gauge. Fairly simple install, with the hardest part being opening the fuel gauge and disabling the internal regulator. I bought the recommended SMP VR128 because of the dancing ammeter and flickering lights. The lights are on relays, but there was still the dance and flicker. I kind of gave up and then I experienced random bouts of over charging. As the RPMs increased the ammeter would go up and I figured that wasn’t good, specially after metering 17+ volts. Then I would let it idle and everything was fine. I was curious though because even when it was working it was showing between 14.5 and 15 vdc on the meter at the battery and the alternator and the ignition. Kept trying to find loose wires/ bulkhead connectors but no dice. Then I happened upon this ground plane thing, which I had never heard of, implemented it, but again no dice. Then my IVR3 got fried and the gauges went dead. Dang!! So I stuck the old mechanical regulator back on and viola, magically everything is great. No dancing, no flickering and metering between 13.5 and 13.7 vdc. I’m guessing that the ground plane fixed the dance (ground wire directly from alternator to regulator to battery). Probably got a bad VR128. I had to get another IVR3 but the gauges are back and I think that the old IVR3 gave itself up to save them. Yayyy!
With that issue finally solved I decided to add an oil separator/ catch can to the D100 and Dart since they are so cheap, $20 on Amazon and It intuitively sounded like a good idea. Did the D100 first and the idle has smoothed out and it seems to start easier. Just did the Dart, so don’t know if the same will apply. I added check valves to keep boost from entering the cans.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Great thread. We ae planning to do this kit on my sons W150 pickup. We are at the stage of pulling the engine out now for a rebuild. Not to hijack your thread, but can someone link me to Dart270s build? I'm trying to figure out if we can stick with cast pistons, and some other things as my son's budget is not unlimited, LOL.
Jerry

Jerry,

I do not have a thread for my supercharger buildup yet. I got your PM. I am terrible about posting things, except under the "What did you get done on your Slant" thread in "Social Corner". I will try to get some pics and such into a new thread.

A short answer is that if you will stick to 6-8 psi and will have good ignition control (adv/retard curve) and fuel control, then you should be fine with cast pistons. One "relatively cheap" suggestion is to use the MSD-6AL-II digital programmable or the current equivalent (used to be 6530 PN?). And, use a Holley 500 2bbl carb with boost referencing. Personally, I decided I would not mess with boost until I did EFI, and I have run turbo and torqstorm with megasquirt-I (v2.2) since 2003 for fuel control only and port EFI. You will absolutely need an AFR guage like the AEM x-series.

Lou

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Thanks Lou. I may just go ahead and help him with the budget a bit more than I planned. It may just be easier and safer for us to run the Holley Sniper unit meant for the Jeep 258. I assume this can be used in a blow thru setup but I haven't talked to them yet or searched. That should take care of all the fueling issues and get the MSD box for the boost retard. I see you're in VA. We are too. I'm about an hour North of Charlottesville. I lived in Blacksburg for about 8 years (94-2002)
Jerry

That Holley TBI could be a good option and I think they have options for boost or not. To me, a "budget boost build" will mean either tons of time tuning, or plenty of broken parts.

Cool you're in VA. Stop by sometime! Can give you a ride/tour.

Lou

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Thanks Lou. Hopefully the budget build just costs us more time and not broken stuff but we’ll see!. We have 6 months before it has to be back on the road, so we’ll see. I’d love to check your project out. I don’t get out that way very often anymore, but if I do I’ll certainly contact you.
Thanks,
Jerry

One thing I just realized from this thread is about the powersteering. I didn’t realize most installs aren’t running it.

FYI, I do not like power steering and did/will not use it (maybe electric later).

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You will not like a 4X4 without power steering unless you are the Hulk!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Ah, gotcha. I am a light car handling guy. Trucks and heavy cars are different.

Lou

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I substituted a Spectre low profile hat for the one supplied by Torqstorm on my Dart because of space. I have not seen more than 7 psi of boost. Also had a recurring problem with the hat gasket bulging out, but not breaking. Tried different gaskets and even some gasket sealer to no avail. I kept looking for the Fel-Pro 2104 gasket with the steel ring, but seems like it is always back ordered. I happened upon the Speedway Motors Super Seal which has a steel ring embedded in neoprene rubber. I had to Dremel out the inside diameter a bit to get it to fit. Just did a test run and got 10psi @ 4k rpm. Nice acceleration and no bulge on the gasket afterwards. I am still planning on doing a smoke test on both vehicles and will post the results.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Bill,

Thanks for the great tip on the gasket and boost pressure. What head unit pulley are you running again? Mine makes around 9-10 psi at 4k RPM and 13 psi at 6k RPM with the 3.25" pulley (IIRC). I have not seen gasket bulging yet, fortunately, but I have seen a little Meth/water spray from under the gasket. I did build a really strong hold down bolt system that has 3 bolts to my throttle body. I'll get one of those speedway gaskets.

Lou

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Hi Bill,
When I look at your original pics, it looks like you could slip a Sanden type A/C compressor in there where your PS pump is. Does that seem correct?
Cheers,
Tim

Hi Lou,
I am also using the 3.25” pulley which I believe is the smallest they offer. I initially installed the 3.5 and was not happy with the boost supplied at the typical low RPMs I was driving at. The smaller pulley definitely helped to get a decent 4 psi when just mildly getting into the secondary, like 2/3-3/4 pedal.

Hi Tim,
I am using the A/C pulley to drive the power steering, so I would say a big maybe to your question. I did fab an additioal bracket along with an idler pulley to make the PS fit as stated above. I did all this because the budget director would not approve the expenditure for a super charger and all of the necessary additional bits without keeping the power steering.

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Cheers, Bill.
Smoke em if you got em.

Yep, I am glad I went with 3.25" off the bat. I believe they offer a 3.1" pulley now too, but not when I ordered mine. I feel like for street driving with pump gas (and water/meth inj), 3.25" is the right spot. Definitely a different feel than boost from a turbo...

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