I have a 1965 Dodge Dart. I have dropped the fuel tank and am cleaning it and going to replace the original sending unit. I am going to purchase through Vans. https://vansauto.com/product/sending-un ... 3-76-body/
I did purchase a new sending unit through Classic Industries and it came damaged. But I did try to at least stick it into the tank. I can not get it into the tank with the curve of the fuel line and float. Anyone have input on how to slide a new sending unit into the tank? The fuel line is curved different then the stock unit.

With most replacement parts now, you might have to make a few mods.
Maybe a slight gentle bend will make it shaped like the one you took out.
Then it should go back in.

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Hyper_pak

The fuel tank sending units available today have a different shape to the wound wire section of the sending unit that generates the resistance value when compared to the OE sending unit.
The result is the new units are wildly inaccurate.
That can be compensated for by adding an electronic buffer to the system. To save that effort and expense look into having the OE unit rebuilt.

Also if the Classic Industry part was delivered damaged, it seems to me it would be on Classic Industry to take the damaged unit back. A perfect way for you to get a refund.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

Yes, you are correct. They are no where near the same shape as the stock sending unit. In fact I could not figure out how to even get it into the tank. I have started to search out where to send it to have it re-built. If you have any idea on where to have it rebuilt I would appreciate it. Thank you.

It is relatively easy to check the function of a fuel level sending unit with an inexpensive multimeter.
Set the meter up to report resistance (ohms) and move the float from one extreme to the other.

I have never used them but John Wolf and Company in Ohio were recommended by several folks at FABO.

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uX8Nj8ABEI8

I knew it was "John..... Something". My son was just asking me about that the other day

Did the vendor send you the correct part for your car? I have ordered several sending units for my Dart over the years and they all fit perfectly, but the windings were slightly off that gave incorrect fuel level readings between full and empty.

One way to check the sending unit is to check its resistance at empty and full. The range should be around 7 ohms to around 90 ohms. Connect the leads of a VOM, one to the flange of the unit, and the other to the electrical stud that the gauge wire attaches. Move the float full range slowly observing if there are any positions that read zero which would be where some corrosion or old gas has varnished over the resistance winding. Sometimes a good dose of electrical cleaner can clean that crud from the winding, restoring its conductivity.

If the sending unit's resistance is reading 7 to 90 ohms, then there could be a sending grounding problem. The factory grounded the tank via a sheet metal jumper that is clipped to the metal tube protruding from the sending unit, bridging the rubber coupling that connect the fuel line to the sending unit. One can also ground the tank with a jumper wire spanning between the tank and a good ground on the body, or a wire clamped to the sending units fuel line to the cars fuel line; dealer's choice.

One other question, does the temperature gauge work on your car? If not the voltage limiter may be cooked. So test its operation. If it that gauge dose work than the problem is the sending unit to gauge curcuit not the voltage limiter.

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67' Dart GT Convertible; the old Chrysler Corp.
82' LeBaron Convertible; the new Chrysler Corp
07' 300 C AWD; Now by Fiat, the old new Chrysler LLC

Supercharged, thank you for the great information. I ordered the 1st sending unit from Classic Industries and it was stated as the correct unit. It was not. I sent it back for a refund. I then went to Vans and ordered another. The one from Vans looks correct. I actually took a chance and sprayed the original sender with electrical cleaner, installed a new sock/filter, and re-installed it with a new gasket and used the original ground strap. It is working! Good old original parts from 1965! Hopefully it keeps going.

I did know about the ohm reading. I actually tried it on the stock unit. I just didn't know what the range was. But there was no break/interruption in ohms while working the float up and down.