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PostPosted: Mon Jul 29, 2019 10:24 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model*: 68 Valiant
Do you have the (+) signal at the relay when you turn the key to START?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 30, 2019 11:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
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Location: Everett, WA
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As soon as I replace my ohm meter I'll check.

So back to the rabbit hole. The aforementioned yellow and brown wires connect to the harness from the steering column. They were sniped at the solder joints. That same yellow wire goes to terminal A on the bulkhead connector. The yellow/stripped wire goes to terminal L. The small black wire went to the same connector as the brown and yellow. It was snipped at the connector. The other black wire went to a warning light, and that circuit was removed. The gray wire was part of the hack job for the radio. And I took the liberty of removing that mess. A brown/yellow wire from the controller goes to the bulkhead and on the engine side it connects to the nss switch.

The yellow/black wire from terminal A goes to the override relay. 2 yellow wires from terminal L goes to the same override relay. From the relay a single yellow wire runs to the starter relay.

Notice something, the brown/yellow wire from the nss is dead ended on the other side of the firewall. So I snipped the wire and extended it to the starter relay. I also extended the wire from terminal A to the starter relay. This follows the schematic from a '75.

And with that the "Seat Belt Interlock" was removed.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 01, 2019 9:26 pm 
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I was poking thru the wiring harness, trying to determine the feasibly of removing the amp gauge circuit. I will eventually replace the alternator with one at a higher rating. And everything is already apart, so why not. Every wiring schematic show the amp gauge circuit as stand alone. The wires come in from the bulkhead connector, to the gauge and back out the bulkhead connector.

Not in my car.

It comes in from the bulkhead connector, goes to the gauge, ties into the power wire for the headlight switch, and back out the connector. This is from the factory. It neatly bypasses the fusiable link and the fuse box. An undocumented enhancement from the factory. Nice, I think Alice has been spotted...

Oh, the engine turns over with the key now. I had to bypass the nss switch. So it is dead or its a linkage issue. Time will tell.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 02, 2019 9:14 pm 
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Well belay the last message. I missed the black dot at the junction of those wires on the schematic. Silly me, you would think 2 semesters of high school electronics would make me an expert!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 8:42 pm 
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Well after months of sanding, pounding, filling and primering; I final shot some color. The engine bay of the Dart is glossy white. Rustleoum Glossy White to be exact. Mixed 1/4 cup of mineral spirits to 1/2 quart of paint. Yeah, I use baking implements to measure paint.

Now I can reinstall the steering box, which we let me mount the steering column to see if it fits with the dash modifications, which will let me paint the dash, etc...

Just another step on the path to get the Dart back on the road.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 12:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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A little bit every day (or every week) goes a long way. Congrats on the progress.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 24, 2019 8:55 pm 
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Building your cars with spare change takes a while.

Maybe I need to start a Utube channel, "Uncle Kev's Slant Emporium". I'll cater to the punk rockers and the car guys!! I'll get rich!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 25, 2019 4:31 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model*: 68 Valiant
kesteb wrote:
Building your cars with spare change takes a while.

Maybe I need to start a Utube channel, "Uncle Kev's Slant Emporium". I'll cater to the punk rockers and the car guys!! I'll get rich!


It's gonna be HUUUUUUUGGGEEEE!!!!!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sun Oct 06, 2019 10:04 pm 
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Well, this is not an announcement of a new youtube channel.

But I did finish up most of the engine compartment in the Dart. The brake system is all cleaned up and bolted in. The surge tank and efi pump are mounted. The LSX coil pack is bolted in. And the steering box was cleaned up, bolted in and I have mounted the steering column. Which showed me that the dash modification's were good to go.

So I started to run some wires. It is interesting to note that the Microsquirt has more wires to control the engine, then whole wiring harness for the chassis. Wow, isn't progress great.

So now the internal battle, should I centralize the fuses and relays under the hood, or split it, with the original wiring under the dash and the new stuff under the hood. The new stuff would include the headlight circuits.

On the Duster, I bought some wire to finish the modifications. But I bought some at the wrong gauge. Does the wire from the starter relay to the starter solenoid really need to be 10awg? Oh well, next month...


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 09, 2019 8:16 pm 
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I am drawing up a power budget so I can figure out total amperage and wire sizes. This is what I have come up with so far.

Code:
       Chassis
             High beams - 30a (relay)
             Low beams - 30a (relay)
             Radiator fans - 2x30a (relays)
             Horn - 15a (relay)
             Linelock - 3a

       MicroSquirt
             MS master- 30a (relay)
                  Power - 30a (relay)
                      ECU - 2a (fuse)
                      Injectors - 2x5a (fuse)
                      Fidle - 2a (fuse)
                      Ego - 5a (fuse)
                  LSx coils - 15A (relay)
                  Fuel pump - 10a (relay)

       Interior
            Ignition switch
                 Instrument. - 2a (fuse)
                 Tail/Stop - 20a (fuse)
                 Cigar - 20a (fuse)
                 ACC - 20a (fuse)
           Direct
                Radio - 5a (fuse)
                Heater - 20a (fuse)


The interior is interesting. In stock form, it is powered by a single 12awg wire. This wire goes to the master splice, which branches off to the fuse box, head light switch and ignition switch. It is protected with a 14awg fuseable link. A 12awg wire is supposedly good to 20 amps.

Why doesn't a '65 Dart burn to the ground when you turn the heater, head lights and the radio on?


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