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PostPosted: Sat May 02, 2020 11:28 pm 
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It will cost about half the amount of the clutch kit to ship it back. This would include the restocking fee. Doesn't sound reasonable to me. But that's online ordering for you.

So let's take another look at the 11" clutch from the 1/2 ton PU. So what else uses the 143 tooth flywheel? Well 383s and 440s do and you can buy a nice SFI approved flywheel that is drilled for the 10.5 clutch pattern. And the 6 bolt flange matches the small block pattern which matches the slant with one hole slightly miss aligned.

Hmm, will that 11" bell housing fit my chassis? I think I will dig it out and see.


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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2020 3:15 am 
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Yeah, tough choices. With enough beating with a 4 lb sledge, I bet the 11" bellhousing would fit... :? I cut part of the trans tunnel and raised it 1" when I redid my T5 mounting for better engine/trans angles. I figure no one cares about originality on my cars except me, and I don't either....

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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2020 5:17 pm 
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I could save a few $$$ for you....

I still have a Spec Puck Clutch that only had a break in run on it before I pulled it from not working (I suspected the pressure plate was the issue on these)... if your pressure plate is good and no slippage, I could send you the disc for less money and you get to upgrade....I might also have a Spec 2+ disc with about 30-40K on it that might get you through another couple years of racing
for even less $$$...

I also have the 11" clutch conversion out of my duster and won't be running it with the advent of the small block clutch bellhousing conversion...I could
make you a deal for the bell with plate, flywheel, 11" diaphragm organic clutch disc& pressure plate& bolts, narrowed Z-bar, extended lever for the TOB
if you wanted to push the envelope with the conversion...we could make a "deal"...freight will be problematic due to the weight of the flywheel, bell, and clutch
cover... that being said...this would also come with a unique denso starter with the 11 tooth gear for this set up (and allows the starter nose to clear the
steering link when the wheels are straight....)


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PostPosted: Sun May 10, 2020 6:10 pm 
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One time, at the race track...

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So the next time a a magnum guy says that the slant is "not worth the money"...

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On the other hand a 350 powered Vega is hard thing to catch and for that matter, so is a 1.8L Civic with nitrous.


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PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2020 3:54 am 
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Nice to see the pics. Car looks great!

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue May 12, 2020 9:42 pm 
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And hopefully when I am done with the rebuild it will again.

OK, all the parts are here to do a rebuild on the engine. This will be a basic refresh job. The purpose of this engine is to set up the MicroSquirt and get experience with it. When done, the engine should perform as well or better then the above version did.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 14, 2020 10:31 pm 
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Well, I took the week off to assemble the long block and slip it between the fenders. No such luck. It rained most of the week, and since I work outside, it is hard to dodge the rain drops.

What I did get finished was the fuel system. This is just a continuation of the "return line" set up that I used with the carburetor. With a low pressure pump to draw fuel from the main tank into the swirl pot. This gravity feeds the EFI pump that feeds the injectors. The low pressure pump is a replacement pump for a Hemi/440 6pack. Rated at 33gph at 7 psi. The EFI pump is a Bosh 255lph and the actual fuel line is 3/8". Total overkill, which should be just about right.

I was also able to make a major dent in the wiring. I moved the Mirosquirt from the right side of the glove box to kick panel on the drivers side. This should remove EMI interference from the heater blower, something I overlooked when I originally mounted the unit. I preformed an ammeter delete. Why not, the loom was unwrapped, so it was easy to do.

When I originally made up the under hood wiring, I used a harness from a '80 Aspen. This gave me a 16awg "big blue wire", which powers every thing under the hood. This is an upgrade from the original 18awg wire from 1965. The reason that I mentioned this is that now that gauge has been extended to the ignition switch. I have had problems with that wire when converting to factory electronic ignition and dual field alternators.

With all this work, the chassis wiring will be separate from the Microsquirt. The only interconnect will be the ignition wire.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 23, 2020 6:50 pm 
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It is interesting what you can learn when talking to machine shops and have an odd ball combination such as a \6.

One shop just did a complete port job and head build up for a 225 that is going to be supercharged. Another one just did a head rebuild for a hyper-pak setup. The hyper-pak was originally done 20 or so years ago by the same shop.

If any of those people are on this forum, drop a pm and let's trade lies.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 24, 2020 10:37 pm 
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Some Microsquirt questions.

1) is there a standard CAN bus connector?
2) is there an I/O expansion box that uses the CAN bus.
3) the Microsquirt uses a mini DIN connector to connect to a serial port. Is there a ready made cable that goes directly to USB?
4) I am thinking of hooking up the 2 step. This require sending a 5v signal to the Microsquirt. Is there a 12v to 5v conversion box so I can do so?

If any of this stuff exists, it would be nice if the Microsquirt resellers would list and sell them.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2020 12:29 pm 
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kesteb wrote:
Some Microsquirt questions.

1) is there a standard CAN bus connector?
2) is there an I/O expansion box that uses the CAN bus.
3) the Microsquirt uses a mini DIN connector to connect to a serial port. Is there a ready made cable that goes directly to USB?
4) I am thinking of hooking up the 2 step. This require sending a 5v signal to the Microsquirt. Is there a 12v to 5v conversion box so I can do so?

If any of this stuff exists, it would be nice if the Microsquirt resellers would list and sell them.



I would Post these Up in the fuel injection forum here.. Matt Cramer will usually chime in as he works for Diyautotune.com


Greg

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 25, 2020 9:53 pm 
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Matt and I have communicated over the years. He helped me in deciding to not use EDIS for ignition control.

But when you use the 'squirt to directly control timing, there is scant documentation on how to set up the trigger wheel. So mine is 6 teeth before the missing tooth. Just like you would for EDIS. With the comforting words that you can "fix it in the software".


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 11:00 am 
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#1 apparently not.
#2 another Microsquirt and and something from JBperf. Not sure if JBperf is alive as their forums seems dead.
#3 www.covair-efi.com sells one of these connectors, also available from them on ebay.
#4 the "flex fuel" line can be grounded to switch on the "2 step". Since I want to use the line lock switch, this implies some sort of diode to prevent voltage back flow. I think. The videos on youtube are confusing. Some are using the brake switch, clutch pedal and other triggering methods. There is even a very elaborate setup using relays.

It also appears the DIYAutotune is getting out of the standalone Microsquirt business, They only advertise it as a transmission controller now.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 2:26 pm 
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kesteb wrote:

It also appears the DIYAutotune is getting out of the standalone Microsquirt business, They only advertise it as a transmission controller now.



Crap. I was hoping to try Microsquirt out.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 9:50 pm 
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I bought mine from efisource. They did the "LSX" upgrade. Which is the proper resistors soldered to the correct pins to drive LSX coils. They also load a "sloppy mechanics" tune for a 5.3 at 15 psi of boost.

Well at least I won't have to worry about it being to lean.


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2020 9:23 pm 
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The wiring project that I started last year on the Duster is finished. Yeah. As usual what started as removing the seatbelt-interlock turned into a modified "Madd electronics" bypass.

There is about 4 different ways to bypass the bulkhead connector and the ammeter. This is mine. There is now a single 8awg wire running from the alternator to the starter relay. The 5/16 bolt on the relay is now the "bus bar", something the Madd literature makes a big deal about. From there, there is a single 8awg wire with a 12awg fusible link running to the battery. This is the "charging wire". Also from there, there is a 10awg wire with a 14awg fusible link wire running to the " big splice" behind the instrument panel. This is the "power wire". All the unneeded wires on the " big splice" were removed, which includes the ammeter.

The single 10awg wire replaces the dual 12awg wire that Madd suggests. I don't see the point. The fusible link will limit the current not the wire size. Does this work? Well the car didn't burn to the ground when I connected the ground cable to the battery and the horn works!

In a few days, I will change the oil in the engine and fill the transmission with fluid and see if it will start. Its about time for it to run again.


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