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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 6:18 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
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Location: IRWIN PA
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3/19/24:

Whilst futzing with my ongoing '62 Valiant wagon project saga, we were driving the '69 Swinger a few times over the last week as the weather was nice.

I bought and installed reproduction Mufflers and a tailpipe for this car maybe 1̶0̶ y̶e̶a̶r̶s̶ a̶g̶o̶? [edit] I double checked the recopt from year one and it was 14 years ago - 2010 to be exact! Man time flies as you approach the old man parts of life! [/edit] the left muffler rotted away in the Left front corner as the exhaust on this car never gets real hot, so it collects a lot of moisture, especially on colder days.

Eventually I will buy another reproduction muffler, but it seems that they are more for show rather than actual driving, cause they rust quick in my application.

So I made a patch from an old ''63 Dart hood - Keep your MoPar all MoPar! :D It's not pretty, but it does work. While I had the hot glue gun turned on and working, I also placed a bung in the exhaust cutout cap for an O2 Sensor that I can add or remove when needed.
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Last edited by Greg Ondayko on Wed Mar 20, 2024 4:46 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 7:30 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Good work Greg. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 7:59 am 
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Triple Duece Weber
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Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2004 6:05 pm
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Location: Desoto Texas
Car Model: 1972 Dodge Colt
I have run duals on my slants that were on the road, but never was a big fan.
On the wagon I decided on the one larger pipe and muffler.
I think that was a better solution.
I was toying with the idea of the Commando V8 resonator and a body cut-out, but didn't do it.
I still have the resonator.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 8:17 am 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Just a question Greg, do those mufflers have weep holes in them?

My Duster used to collect gobs of water in the bottom of the muffler. I drilled an 1/8" hole just in front of the back seam and it stopped it.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 3:25 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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I drill holes in every muffler I install, including these. Repops / Walker/ AP never seem to have that added manufacturing step.

Sometimes I will also drill on the low spots after the muffler in the tailpipe/ tail spout also.

I figured that this one had a low spot in the front corner, so after welding on the patch, i drilled one it the front too. Goofy, but according to the evidence that might help drain some of the condensation.

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 19, 2024 3:30 pm 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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hyper_pak wrote:
I have run duals on my slants that were on the road, but never was a big fan.


I agree. I want to ( for now) keep it that way.
I will likely build a skookum correct exhaust for this car some day.

Back when I built this car, I was 19-20 yeats old with no money or skills so stock pipes and muffler shop help was what I used.

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PostPosted: Thu May 02, 2024 8:13 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: IRWIN PA
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I have been driving the car again a bit during the super nice weather we are currently having. The family and I went out to the ice cream shop last night. Continuing my carb tuning that I started back in August-October 2023: I had every change that I made last Fall on a notepad to keep track of impressions and perceived effects of those changes.


There are still little flat spots in the fueling at times, and I found that the engine went into a pretty bad stall at WOT - Like the fuel pump cut out or something... Found that since trimming down the primary circuit for leaner performance and proper idle, the secondary jetting was too lean. I went from 0.095" secondary jets to 0.104" secondary jets and now the WOT operation is correct again.

After the Ice cream shop, I did a quasi-non-permanent install of the O2 Sensor in the Exhaust cutout. I drilled the cutout cap and welded a mild steel bung to it in mid-March 2024. I have had the O2 Gauge sitting in the parts queue ready to go since probably last fall as well.


After installing the AFR Gauge I found that the engine Idled consistently at ~12.5 AFR and the WOT also seemed good in the mid 12's

Temporary installation of the Sensor:
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Temporary wire run:
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Mounting solution for the Gage was:
Put it in the ashtray, No tape, zip ties, or fasteners are needed.
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