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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 3:01 pm 
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Filter should always be after the pump to protect your fuel system from
debris as the fuel pump wears or brakes. Also all new fuel lines should be
blown out and flushed, especially aeroquip type hoses as just putting them
together causes slivers.
Will


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 5:53 pm 
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As I do more reading it seems like people do almost everything and in every way.

I see some recommending a coarse (100 micron) filter before the pump and a normal (10 micron) downstream of the pump.????

I just want to do it one time and have it work right. I already ran new stainless steel 3/8" line from the Cell to the engine compartment.

Thanks

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 4:43 am 
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Yes I recommend 10 micron for fuel injection or something like a webber.
Always strain your fuel when you put it in the tank, especially if you
buy fuel at the track. Even if you have to use a coffee filter. Do this one time
and see what you find in your fuel, you will be surprised.
Maintaining a clean fuel system is critical on a race car. Simple things add up to
less headaches later.
Will


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:30 am 
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Wow, that is surprising, Will. Thanks for the tip.

Lou

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PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 6:34 pm 
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Thanks Will!

Your saying put the 10 Micron downstream, but do you recommend one on the upstream side as well?

Thanks

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 4:28 am 
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That is personal choice, If you make sure the fuel is strained going
into the tank it should be fine.
Will


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 8:48 am 
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Car Model: 68 Valiant
I have always been told no filter before the pump too.

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 1:44 pm 
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Sounds good! Thanks guys! :D :D

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 7:47 am 
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Notice that the blue car has two Holley Pressure regulators on it. The Holley blue pump seemed to over power one set at a low setting so I set the first one at about 6# and the second one at 3#. Those Holley regulators are pretty simple, it is possible that a better quality one would only require one. When you decide on jetting you have to consider the bore size of the carburetor, the venturi size, and the emulsion tubes being used, those specs all affect jet selection.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 8:40 am 
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Thanks Seymour! I'm sure I will pick your brain some more once I start the install.

Rick

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 4:13 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
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Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
I don't think holley regulators are return type.

You probably need a return type regulator to get away with one.


A non-return type would be like an air pressure regulator. Pressure always creeps up at low/no flow.

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 4:03 pm 
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
I have started receiving some boxes of stuff from Summit and Speedway motors for by car. I got my new rotary vane fuel pump, canister type fuel filter and pressure regulator. I also ordered an assortment of different radius 1 5/8" tubing so that I can modify my rear two header tubes to fit with the Weber carbs.

Ryan's race car has been pretty well buttoned up and should be ready to fire up soon. Just add some fluids and a little electrical wiring and it should be ready. Once that is running it will get moved from my garage and the Valiant will return to the work bay.

Work planned before the 1st race of the year is to install the Webers, new fuel system and the new larger headers. Install another leaf spring to stiffen up the front section and new Poly front eye bushings. Oh and also new tires.

More to come.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 18, 2018 5:35 am 
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Rick,

Have you really figured out how fast the car will go with the current Eddy/Clifford induction? It seems to have more in it. How much tuning have you done? Doing the Webers may work fine, or it may leave you with something that won't run well until you spend time tuning it. Just a thought...

Lou

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 1:40 pm 
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Lou,
I will say I really don't know. I will tell you what I've done and then you all can tell me what I need to do. I will be the first to tell you I don't know a lot about tuning and I don't spend every week at the track to do a lot of testing. I try and assemble a decent engine from info I got from the people who have "been there before" and by asking lots of questions on here. I picked the brains of Mike, Ron, Greg, Lou and many others on here as well.

The Car- 13.40 @ 97 MPH, 2800# with me in it, 3200-3400 convertor and 4.56 gears, 26" tall tires, 6000 RPM at the traps. Engine is K1/Weisco .085 over, with a Jeffrey head, windage tray and 11.5 CR. Cam is .566 Lift, 257 @ .050 which is within a couple degrees either way of Mikes recommendations to me for my car. Cam is 104 LSA, 102 Intake Centerline and is installed at 99. When I ran the 13.40 I was shifting at 5900 RPM.

Tuning:
None at Spring Mason Dixon in May, due to my throttle cable issue. But when we went to Wilkesboro I got to make plenty of runs. I started with my timing about 30, and played with the A/F ratio until I have it at @12.7 and I was shifting at 6000 RPM. Moved timing back to 28 and raised the RPM's to 6200, then 6400 and the ET did not really change much. I kept backing down RPM until I was shifting at @6000 and it was running slightly faster each time I dropped the RPM. So I settled in with that and ran it the rest of the weekend. It ran 8.50 @ ____? Then the car sat all summer as I had other major things going on (Septic System) and it did not run again until Fall Mason Dixon. Here I installed a 1" spacer and a stub stack to see if that would improve air flow. It did not and when I removed the stub stack it dropped the ET from 13.91 to 13.55 @ 96.6. Again I was trying to be consistent and I did not make any more changes to the car other than that. A/F ratio was still good also.
After talking to Ron a little and knowing that Greg is running a 750 cfm on his engine I decided to try more carburetion. I know, and Ron told me the same thing. The 750 by any calculator is to big, but he said his real world numbers dropped the car several tenths with only that carburetor change. We all know how well Greg is running, also with a 750. So I planned to get a 750 over the Winter, but ended up getting the Webers instead. So that is where I stand right now.
Thanks for any guidance. Maybe I should start a new Post on "How to tune a race car" That might make a good sticky! :D

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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12.70 @ 104.6
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 5:30 pm 
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Sounds like your AFR is where it needs to be and timing and shift points too. Seems the car should run faster with that setup, but OK. Sounds like the Webers are worth a shot and you can always go back. I can't see how a 750 will make that much difference (maybe 1-2 tenths?), but also worth a try. Can't wait til the M-D race!

Lou

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