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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 29, 2013 12:40 pm 
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SL6 Racer & Moderator
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Joined: Wed Jan 29, 2003 4:42 am
Posts: 8700
Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
Rick Covalt wrote:
Quote:
Angie gave me the "go ahead" to make plans to attend most of the East Coast races this year.


That's good news!

Apparently Cookies wife didn't tell him the same thing. :lol: :lol:


Rick


Yeah,... She's too busy "Hootin' & Hollerin'" about da fuseball all over national television! :lol:

If only some of her enthusiasm would rub off on poor ole Cookie about dem Slant 6 cars he's got... :(

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2013 6:47 pm 
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
I showed the Challenger to my new fabricator buddy this evening... That's all. :lol:

Maybe I'll get around to installing the oil pan soon... Then I can put the engine in the car!... Maybe... :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 02, 2013 5:55 am 
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
Some more specifics on the car:

Good stuff:

100 inch wheelbase which is good for a car that size. A similar Charger is only 98

4 wheel lite weight disc brakes

Alum center section 8 3/4 (very rare) 4.56 gears with a spool

High Quality forged alum wheels

10.5x31x15W rear tires

26x4.5 front tires

2050 lbs without driver running the Slant 6

non adj Coil over shocks all 4 corners

Ladder bar

2x3 Main rails

Mustang II style front suspension with aftermarket Upper and lower control arms

Manual rack and pinion

HD strut rods run to front

Alum radiator with fan

Alcohol fuel cell

Crossover Delay box

Transbrake

4800 stall converter

Electric shifter with RPM switch

MSD 6AL box with 2 step

Nice Lexan well mounted

Nice interior alum work

Good paint w/Mopar graphic decals

Unique Mopar (only one at the track)


Not so good stuff:

Engine has to be gone through

Gap between the back of the hood and base of windshield about 4x10 inches in the center

Shocks are not adjustable for Jounce and rebound

Bottom line is that the cage needs a lot of work to be certified for 9.99 or faster

But Norm ran the car in all of the Slant 6 stuff with no issues

You never know when they will say something about the window net or side bars even in a 12 sec car.

No window net. NHRA requires any car with a ROLL CAGE ( NOT ROLL BAR) to have a window net

Main roll cage hoop is 1.75 inches - Legal

Door side bars are curved and Low - Illegal

All of the rear bars off the main hoop are 1.5 " - Illegal

A nice V8 could be fitted and the car would go in the 9's on pump gas, but you would have to fix the chassis.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 03, 2013 8:24 pm 
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
I spent the evening at the garage and finally got around to pulling the rod and main caps on the Challenger's original engine...

All the rod bearings and journals look like normal wear to me...

The #3 main bearing looks like it took the beating. The crank looks okay so far, but that bearing is none too happy.

Image

Here are the #1 and #4 mains. Not nearly as bad as #3.

Image

Image


I may be able to get away with just putting new bearings in this thing! :shock: :D

We'll see...

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Last edited by Rob Simmons on Wed Oct 28, 2015 12:19 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 8:45 am 
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Sounds promising, Rob. Next question is why did that happen? Worth a try to just replace that one, or maybe all the mains while you're at it.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 9:18 am 
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Location: Eugene, Oregon
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I would mike the crank for sure!

Richard

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:30 pm 
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
I'll tear the engine all the way down and check everything very closely. It looks promising from what I see so far at least.

I wonder if a piece of that screen mesh that was used as a sort of baffle found its way through the oil pump and into the bearing... :?

I made a new baffle today and fitted the crank scraper for the new engine.

I made the new baffle out of something a little more sturdy than the wire mesh. It was a BBQ grill shelf I recycled. :wink:

I'm off SAT-MON, so I may make some progress on getting the Challenger back together after all. :shock:

Before:
Image

After:
Image

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 Post subject: Lol...
PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
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You know , if you put 4 years of apprenticeship in doing stuff like that, they will actually pay you and call you a journeyman.... :lol:

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 04, 2013 7:46 pm 
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
Now THAT's funny! :lol:

I did have fun doing it though. I needed some "car therapy"! :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 8:24 am 
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Make sure the baffles allow the oil to get back into the pan sump. I spend a lot of time angling them down and having a good sized hole in the middle.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 1:21 pm 
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
What!? :shock:

Them dozen donut holes I dun drilled in it ain't good enough...? :?

I s'pose I could connect them 6 in the middle into 1 real big one...

Does a deep rear sump drag pan like this even really NEED that kinda baffle?

It certainly isn't a road course car or anything...

The last thing I want to do is inadvertently starve the engine for oil thinking I'm doing a "good" thing by adding a baffle... :?

Sumbudy educate me b'fore I do sumthin' even more dumber than what I usually do! :shock: :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 05, 2013 4:45 pm 
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
Car Model:
its baffling really.........


<,,,,,,,,,baffed again.......>

/baff check?/

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Yeah....Im the one who destroyed this rare, vintage automobile.....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 3:07 am 
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Car Model:
I would say maybe a 1.5" shelf around the rim is the most you would need, or just front and back shelves. Make sure the pickup is touching the floor and near the middle of the sump or about 1" toward the rear from center.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 3:08 am 
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Also, make sure you have a hole for the dipstick. I drove around for 3-4 yrs in my 68 Dart with no dipstick because I forgot to mark/drill that particular hole. Looks like you have that covered.

Lou

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 06, 2013 5:00 am 
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Location: Cox’s Creek, KY
Car Model: More cars than sense...
I'll connect the 6 middle holes into one big one then.

The pickup is about 1/4" from the bottom of the pan the way Norm had it.

I've got the dipstick thing covered TWICE! :shock: :lol:

There's the original dipstick tube in the side of the pan (that Norm just had blocked off - No dipstick)

The new engine already has a dipstick, but it points to a spot further toward the front of the pan - not into the deep sump...

What ever shall I do!? :shock: :?

Should I run two dipsticks (Shut up Sandy & 'Zilla! :P :lol: )

And how high should the oil level be?

I need to call Norm and ask what the capacity on this pan is... :?

I'll be swapping the Howard Davis head, RAS roller rockers and Smith Brothers push rods on as well. :wink:

Might as well put all the goodies in one basket.

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