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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 11, 2015 10:22 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 06, 2002 1:57 pm
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Location: Everett, WA
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ok, went racing last Sunday. The only time this year. The box of parts from Summit worked. I return style fuel line solved the foat probem and the carb work correctly. So well that there is a flat spot at around 4000 rpm.Also I had to run premimun to cover a ping condifition. Solve one problem and two more arise.

Also you can get traction with street TA's. Rev to 3000 rpms. pop the cliutch and spin it up to 5000 and stage. Then bog. yep it has tractions now I need to adjust my starting technic.

Until next year...


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 8:01 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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Pulled the plugs to check gap and distribution. With the non-heared clifford, the front three cylinders are noticably rich. I guess, I'll turn the carb 90* and have the primaries parallel to the engine.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 10:39 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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Changed the oil a couple of weeks ago, to get ready for a trip to Ocean Shores WA. About a 320 mile round trip. The Dart ran beautifully on the way up, 65 -70 mph, 3200 -3400 rpms, a nice smooth ride. On the way back, about 3/4 miles past Monestano WA, the oil light comes on and the gauge is going to 0. Switched the engine off and coasted to the shoulder. Luckily there is a shoulder. On some parts of Hiway 12 there isn't.

Called my insurance company, I have roadside assistance, found out they will tow my car to the nearest Dodge dealership, which is 12 miles back in Aberdeen. Why in the world, would I take a '65 Dart to a dealership? What are they going to do with it?

Anyway, for a small fortune, i had it hauled to a friends house in Port Orchard, and the wife and I hitched a ride back home from the same friends. The next day I borrowed the neighbors truck, rented a U-Haul tow dolly and dragged it home.

Once home I checked the oil and it was down 1 1/2 quarts. In 200 miles it disappeared, it didn't leak out, that would be a noticable leak. It didn't burn, that would be a blue streak behind the car.

Well, until that is figured out, I won't be racing this year.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 10:45 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
Is it in the coolant?

If not, I think you burned it........
(check your plugs)

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 10:52 pm 
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Plugs are a nice even tan. No oil in the radiator.

Pulled the oil filter tonight, disconnected the coil wire and turned the engine over. No oil is being pumped. Pulled the distributor and checked the gear. It looks good. The worm gear on the cam feels good. So the pump didn't sieze.

So I guess the next step is to pull the engine and dig in. I have about 5 years and dozens of runs down the track on this engine. Might be time for a make over.


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PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 10:42 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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If you install 3.5" pistons, what head gasket do you use?


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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 6:27 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
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Location: IRWIN PA
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Use these:
http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=57368
this order is over a year old but should work


Aussie / endurotec / permaseal big bore gaskets.


Greg

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PostPosted: Wed May 18, 2016 7:38 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 11:08 am
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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Sorry to hear about that. Greg has got it on the gasket.

Lou

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 16, 2016 8:45 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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I have been collecting parts for a few years. Since the car is dead in the water, I have decided to go EFII, also finishing the supercharger manifold.

Doing the facebook thing. http://facebook.com/kevin.esteb.65dart


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 9:30 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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Trying to build a set of headers. Interesting problems, like how do you hold tubes together. The TV shows make it look so easy. Hold the tubes togther and zap it with the MIG. But I don't have a MIG. I have a gas setup. Hose clamps and spent rod not working so well. I'll figure it out...


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 17, 2016 5:26 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Joined: Fri Jul 13, 2007 11:11 pm
Posts: 794
Location: clearwater florida
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That would be tough! I mig my first header the current head I tig and even that was tough to hold certain pipes during the layout and tacking lol

Kev

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 7:42 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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Building headers is not hard. Just time consuming and tedious. I have learned a few things.

Making round tube square requires a body hammer and patience, sooner or later it will fit into the flange. You can use masking tape to hold tubes together. You can use spent 1/16" welding and hose clamps when tacking. Just weld thru the tape, easy to do with a gas setup. It would have been nice if Chrysler had put the starter on the other side of the block

I can also see how a custom set of headers can cost $1000 or more. I will post some pictures on facebook latter, to show progress.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 24, 2016 9:30 pm 
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16 hours later and I almost have a rear header. I decided to go around the starter, instead of over it.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 5:51 am 
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Turbo Slant 6
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Location: clearwater florida
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I went around the starter on both headers also

Kev

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 10:33 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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Going over the starter would have given me equal length tubes. Going around the starter makes #6 about 4" longer then #5 and #4. Ed from "Headers by Ed" would not approve. I hope he is right about tubes sizes. I am following his suggestions for the "Super Coupe" club.


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