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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:43 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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All the tubes are welded and joined at the collector end. All that needs to be done is weld the tubes to the flange and make the collector. At the end of the month I will another couple of J tubes and start on the front header.

Pictures at Facebook.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 30, 2016 10:53 pm 
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Both headers are welded up and brazed to the manifold flanges, and I have one reducer done.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 8:43 pm 
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After 3 or 4 attempts at reducers, I actually made 2. They are now tacked to the header tubes with the exhaust flanges sitting on the ends. Another day and they will be finished.

Also have updated pictures at the site.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2016 12:21 pm 
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Headers are done. After some massaging, I can actually bolt the intake and headers to the head. Pictures on facebook.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2017 2:37 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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Pulley dilemma! What to do...

I currently have a lower pulley from a Ford 3.8 v6, and a water pump pulley from a Ford 3.0 v6. These are 6 rib pulleys and match the pulleys on the supercharger and the alternator. I can lined them all up, but I feel the belt would be spaced to far from the block.

There are also differences between forged crank dampener and cast crank dampeners. The mounting face on the forged one is flatter. The cast crank one has about a 3/16" concave dish, that is to small for the hub of the 3.8 pulley to fit into. This requires an adapter that moves the pulley out that amount. The adapter also centers the pulley to the dampener.

Apparently, from a post from Pierre, a 6 rib pulley for a SBC with the short water pump can be used. This would move the belt in 3/8". He didn't have a solution for the water pump and GM never actually made such a pulley, so you need to purchase an expensive one from the aftermarket. Also you would have the same problem with the different dampeners. As this part is flat on the back side.

I would really like a serpentine belt setup. But I could run the Al Teague solution which was to run the supercharger on the serpentine belt and the accessories on the standard V belts. He used the lower crank pulley from the 3.8 for this. I feel there is too much space between the crank and the supercharger and this would introduce belt problems.

I could also just bite the bullet and have a 6 or 8 rib dampener made. I would have to find a water pump pulley and the accessory plate would have to be redesigned. I have a dual grove pulley that I could sacrifice to this project.

What solutions have others come up with. You can see the pictures, but they never show the belt layout.

Pictures on facebook, they at the end of the supercharger album.


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 23, 2017 8:54 pm 
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I went with the March pulley. This with the trigger wheel aligns everything perfectly. I'm now figuring out the belt routing.

Pictures on Facebook. I may go with the last picture, looks promising.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:47 pm 
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Uploaded a bunch of pictures to the Facebook site.

I pulled the engine over the weekend and field stripped it. It appears that the gears on the oil pump sheared off. It almost looks something go jammed between the cam gear and the oil pump gear. Not sure what, but there was a lot of "dirt" in the engine. Not sure from what, but I don't think it is residue from the failure.

The cam is good, bearings should be replaced. Along with rings. I may need a new crank. There is a slight score on the number 2 journal. Possibly from a rod bolt when dissembling. The crank is already 30 under. I will have to wait and see what the machine shop says.

Doing much needed body work for now.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 6:33 pm 
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Ran out of good weather, so only the front fenders were done. All the rust has been removed and the holes patched. Bought a LSx modified Microsquirt and now have everything needed to finish the EFI install is here.

More pictures on the Facebook site.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 9:41 pm 
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Stopped by the machine shop. The block is done, the bores cleaned up real nice, no overbore needed. I need to supply a couple of more rods as 2 of them couldn't be resized. I wonder if this is the original reason for this engine to fail. The rods wern't properly redone and they let go, taking out the crank. Thus causing a crisis that Reed helped to resolve.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 3:14 am 
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I'd like to see your pictures but I don't use facebook. :? Do you have a link to them. You can post pictures here now directly, which you probably already know :D :D Thanks

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 23, 2017 6:45 pm 
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Link back on page 7.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 02, 2018 8:18 pm 
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Picked up the parts today. Crank turned out good. Cleaned up nicely and didn't need to be cut. The rods were rebuilt and arp bolts installed. I will also be using an app stud kit when reassembling.

The machinest pointed out that the block was aligned bored. The "big box rebuilder" must have done that, unfortunately they didn't chamfer the mains and the edges are very rough. There is some flash on the crank that will need to be removed. So to recap.

1971 vintage 198 block.
Bored .60 over.
225 crank with standard size rods and mains.
Rebuilt 225 rods with arp bolts and cast pistons.

We will see how this "stock" block works with 10 lbs of boost.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 2:55 am 
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As long as you are careful with ign and AFR, you should be fine. And, you don't try to rev it to the moon. 5500 should be plenty..

Lou

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2018 9:32 pm 
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Engine rpm will be based on the supercharger. A M90 doesn't like to be turned much past 11,000 rpms. Ignition and fuel is being controlled with a Microsquirt. I am basically moving from mid '70s technology to mid '80s technology. Batch fuel and wasted spark.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 9:16 pm 
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Nice 3 day weekend. 60* weather. I manged to assemble most of the '68 Demon. It sits too high, needs to be lowered about 2" all around. Also making a list of missing "stuff". Which I hope hasn't been "cleaned up" in Reed's shop.


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