Hey brothers of slant. on my 66 dddart, slant, converted to super sex, and of course dealing with kickdown issues. Tried OE bended rod, couldnt get the right bends to work. Switched to Lokar and not happy with the overall function, too hard to get kickdown, rubbing/dragging on floorboard.
So the Bouchillon, I've read his instructions 23 times. It looks like he has a fitting that will convert my carter bbd throttle arm, and he also says I can reuse my existing throttle bracket, but what he doesnt show is how you can reuse the original throttle bracket (super six) and install the new kickdown bracket on top of it. Search the interweb, found no pictures.
Have any of you ever seen or done this exact conversion? I want to see Bouchillon kickdown installed on a Carter BBD, and using the existing throttle cable bracket. Not the new bracket piece that he sells as an extra (looks like a mending plate). Anyone?? Bueller??

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66 dodge dart 270, 225ci, 3.7l, L6

See this thread for kickdown options.

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Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Converted my 1965 Dodge A100 to super six and used the Bouchillon kick down setup without any issues. It uses a cable and I probably could play with the adjustment a little if I wanted to change the shift points, but so far I have been happy with the initial setup. Good luck.......Gary

I am in the midst of trying to get super six parts.....and facing the same questions you have re: carb and linkages. You had issues with the original kickdown rod? Seems like that would be a no brainer? Makes me worry now.....I havent gotten my parts yet so its not too late to go a different route.....

Hey, GDIZZLE....did you ever get the kickdown bracketry with the Bouchillon kit figured out?

I saw your post http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... n+kickdown

and have the exact same gripes/problems.

Bouchillons instructions are MESSY and CONFUSING. I went through them many times and crossed out the stuff that would not apply to the Carter BBD install with a stock bracket....and STILL, no idea how the kickdown bracket attches to the dang setup......

Can you post a picture of what you ended up with?

Well, not sure if its right...but seems like it so far.....maybe......still working on getting the trans side of the cable setup....

Ok, I am now officially HATING the Bouchillon kit.

I paid $150 for a kit that was supposed to be the be-all and end-all and easy to install , flexible etc.

NOTHING BUT ISSUES so far.

Hoping they are all user error......

First off, they do NOT have any supersix pics in their instruction manual.

That leads to issue #2.....the picture I posted above is the only way the bracket they provide can seemingly go.....HOWEVER, it's misaligned that way....



Now, moving to the underside --- the bracket "C" the cable housing attaches to will not fit on our trans in the spot they say it should......the tranny line is most decidedly in the very middle of the location the bracket needs to be, if installed per their directions....


Here is what ours looks like if done that way....the tranny fluid line goes exactly in the middle of the bolt hole and there is not enough give to tweak and bend the line to be as crazy wide of the bracket it would need to be.....the line goes through the middle of the bracket both side to side and up and down.

Thought we could tweak the trans line but no way.....and I am worried about ruining the line as it stands......that line is snaked around the trans and engine in a ridiculous manner.....we didnt install the intake/exhaust until the block and those lines were installed in the car. Even with all that room the lines were terrible tricky to snake into place.



Installed the bracket from "under" the trans hole to illustrate...more along the lines it needs to point.....just UNDER the trans tab....



So then we thought maybe we could get away with installing the bracket sort of reversed.....the bracket just barely touches the trans line....which I can fix......



It lines up to where I think it would be close enough......BUT......the cable ends up being an inch to 1.5 inches too short because the bracket is reversed and the trans lever would be partially engaged at idle, with no adjustment possible....plus the black plastic housing end wont lock into the bracket because its reversed....



The only thing I can think of is to try and cut the trans line and install a hose to a fitting at the trans or unscrew the fitting at the trans and see if I can somehow graft another piece in there somehow???????

AAAAARRRGGGHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is the schematic from the factory manual (just got it yesterday)

So I removed the trans line and fkitted up the bracket to see where I am.....

I am about 1.5" short of hooking the trans line back up.....

I am hoping I can get some arrangement of adaptors that will allow me to bridge that gap....

Short of that, it was suggested to me that if

"you can't get that fitting out of the trans case (I cant) your best option will be to cut the tranny line, a mini tubing cutter will do it easily.... I would cut it in two places, the first cut so I could save the tube nut, it's hard to source part.... Second in the most accessible area where the splice will be.... Then you can use a standard 5/16" steel fuel line from the auto parts store, cut one end off, slip off both of the common male inverted flare nuts, slip on the female inverted flare nut salvaged from the original line.... Bend the new line to fit.... And use a compression union to connect both lines..."


...this makes sense....but ....its a little nerve wracking cutting the tranny line........screw this up and I am in a whole other world of pain...LOL

Can someone confirm that the trans line for the slant six 904 is definitely 5/16"?

The brackets in your kit are sure large compared to the gearhead setup.
If it was me I would cut that rear line after the 45 angle where it heads up over the transmission. Loosen the nut and rotate that short piece where the 90 is down and point it towards the front. Reroute the front half of the line down over he transmission about where the front line is and aim it back to meet the other piece along the bottom edge of the pan or thereabouts. Obviously you will need a small piece of tubing and some hose and clamps or 2 unions to jump the new piece in.

Basically move the tubing out of your work zone!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I screwed around with the carb end of things a while and I think I have it much better.....I dont like how their bracket is hung by just a bolt though....but it seems to work....





SO maybe the carb end is ok now....

still have to figure out the trans end though or its useless.

I picked up a 5/26 compression coupling and some tube.....

And also some 5/16 inverted female/female couplers...if I can find an inverted male/male coupler, I can stick that in there with the female/female and it may be all I need...gonna try fastenall for that....no one locally had one.

Sooooooo

I misunderstood the "inverted flare" comment someone had made to me....

My trans fitting is a standard flare as would be the line fitting....

I can find a coupler with male flare at both ends....cant seem to find the coupler with female at both ends so I can stack them.

Shadango,

I ran flex lines up over the tranny and along the frame rail on the passenger side 'cause I didn't like them running over the engine and near the hot exhaust manifolds (easier to pull the engine as well). Incidentally they are well clear of the kick down linkage. See: http://s785.photobucket.com/user/67dart ... ort=3&o=59

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

Hey brian

Where did you find the fittings for the trans connection and what kind did you use?

I spent a half hour at fastenal with the guy there trying to find anything to connect up to that fitting that would work and we found nothing.

If I can get the fitting outbox the trans I can get this done but if that fitting snaps I am screwed.

Hi Shadango,

The tranny fittings in my A904 are 1/8" pipe fittings. You can get just about any fitting you need at SummitRacing.com. I used a 90 degree fitting that is 1/8" NPT on one end and 6- AN (I think) on the other end. Then I ran braided SS teflon lines to the radiator. The rear tranny line, near your kickdown bracket issue is just the 90 degree fitting, the front one, nearer the kickdown tension spring I used a short length of 1/8" pipe, a 1/8" female coupler and then another 90 degree fitting as above. I needed that short length of pipe in the front one because just the 90 fitting was too close to the tranny case, it needed to moved away a bit.

I can send you detailed pics and nail down what parts exactly if you like.

Brian

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https://tinyurl.com/yynpj4v2

If its handy info to put down, I would appreciate it.

I cant believe we are this close to being there and I am having issues with this.

I soaked the rear fitting in Blue Torch last night and will do so again tonight and give it a try again.....in case I havent made it clear yet BREAKING THAT FITTING WILL BE A WORLD OF HURT that I want to avoid...LOL ...but its looking like its the only way to do this....

Its frustrating because we are only talking about a gap that is about 1.5 inches.