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PostPosted: Sat Aug 11, 2012 5:29 pm 
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My researched and scrutinized opinion is that the best filter available is the Fleetguard LF3487. It is an expensive ultrapremium "no expense spared" filter probably overkill for the short intervals most of us change our oil at. Wix 51806 (NAPA Gold 1806) and its equivalent from Purolator contains a built-in standpipe to keep (more) oil in the filter in base-down mount applications like the slant-6, for faster lube on cold start.

But those are harder to find than NAPA Gold 1515, Wix 51515, Purolator L30001...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:16 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Here is an on going deal on Wix. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/sho ... &fpart=all

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 3:50 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

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Thanks for the link, I just purchased 8 filters. It seems like the best one for the Slant 6 is #51806.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:20 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

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Still waiting to learn the results of your pressure relief valve service.
Just completed service. No difference. No gunk, I cleaned it anyways.
At running temp cruising at 65 mph = 35psi, idle at a light in drive = 10psi.
Both are within spec, but definately on the low end...
I do have a Mopar high pressure pump spring....perhaps I should put it on?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 11:29 am 
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Turbo EFI

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the hp or hemi spring will give 75psi on a fresh engine


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 4:49 pm 
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the hp or hemi spring will give 75psi on a fresh engine
But will not make any difference at idle.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 5:29 pm 
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the hp or hemi spring will give 75psi on a fresh engine
And for fifty points, can anyone tell us what 75 pounds of oil pressure will do for us, other than increase parasitic load on our engine and stand us a very high chance of destroying our oil pump drive pinion?

…class?

…anyone…?

…Bueller…?

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 5:32 pm 
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At running temp cruising at 65 mph = 35psi, idle at a light in drive = 10psi.
Running (exactly) what brand and grade of engine oil, and what filter? Do you get any rod knock at all on a cold start when the engine first fires? Does the engine consume any oil between changes? How much, and how often do you change the oil?

A low-miles engine does not necessarily have nice tight bearing clearances. A great deal of engine wear can happen in an extremely short time by several circumstances. All it takes is a few cold starts by one boneheaded owner back in nineteen seventy-whatever who decided that multigrade oils are the devil's work and straight 30-weight was better (or that 10w30 is communist propaganda and 20w50 was better) -- for just one example of how it can happen.

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 Post subject: Lol....
PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 6:57 pm 
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And for fifty points, can anyone tell us what 75 pounds of oil pressure will do for us, other than increase parasitic load on our engine and stand us a very high chance of destroying our oil pump drive pinion?
It will keep things lubed properly when the tach goes above 5000rpm for your 1/4 mile of fun at the track....on the street, nothing good.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 7:49 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

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Running (exactly) what brand and grade of engine oil, and what filter?
10W-30 Castrol GTX, Fram (I know, I just purchased Wix #51806)

Do you get any rod knock at all on a cold start when the engine first fires?
No rod knock at all.

Does the engine consume any oil between changes? How much, and how often do you change the oil?I haven't noticed oil consumption. I just bought this car in Oct. '11.
The oil has been changed once by me - I only put about 800 miles on it.
I have no idea how often it was changed in it's first 47k miles.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 18, 2012 8:13 pm 
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Much as I dislike and distrust Fram filters, I think it unlikely the Fram filter is restricting oil flow sufficiently to give the readings you're getting. It's possible, and easy to check, but not too likely.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 4:45 am 
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Much as I dislike and distrust Fram filters, I think it unlikely the Fram filter is restricting oil flow sufficiently to give the readings you're getting. It's possible, and easy to check, but not too likely.
It's a crap shoot. After I rebuilt the engine in my van I had less than 20 at idle, not much more driving. Rods rattled every morning. Did my 500mi. change and went to a Purolator. That was Jan 2001. 150K+ on it and it still runs great oil pressure.

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'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto :-( Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick


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 Post subject: x2
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 9:32 am 
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It's a crap shoot. After I rebuilt the engine in my van I had less than 20 at idle, not much more driving. Rods rattled every morning. Did my 500mi. change and went to a Purolator. That was Jan 2001. 150K+ on it and it still runs great oil pressure.
I concur here, my father-in-law did an oil change on his 94 Dodge Diesel,
used a fram filter...then complained that his oil pressure was about 10-15 psi low....Told him to swap immediately to a wix or Napa Gold filter...did swap, topped the oil level off, pressure returned to normal...

So it's worth a chance.

-D.Idiot


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:20 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

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Remember folks, for the Slant Six, the factory service manual states "minimum oil pressure at idle 8psi, operating pressure at 2000rpm 30-70 psi"........

Mind you, I'd like mine a little higher than the very low range however it's kosher where it's at - although barely. We'll see, I will change the oil again, use 10-40 and Wix filter and report back.

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1975 Plymouth Scamp 225/904/8.75
1968 Plymouth Road Runner 383/727/8.75


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2012 10:40 am 
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Remember folks, for the Slant Six, the factory service manual states "minimum oil pressure at idle 8psi, operating pressure at 2000rpm 30-70 psi"........
Yes...which was written to guide dealerships all over the country in all kinds of weather with all kinds of (grossly inferior 1965) oil, in making their determinations whether an engine is in need of extensive mechanical repair -- a decision that directly influenced Chrysler's bottom line (warranty costs). With hot, thin oil, you might expect to see 10psi or even 8psi at idle on an engine with a fair number of miles on it that's still in basically sound condition. But 8psi is really quite low and I think there's a sound case to be made that it's not adequate.
Quote:
I will change the oil again, use 10-40 and Wix filter and report back.
10w40 oil is not a wise choice, number one. Number two, if you are trying to diagnose a problem it's best to change only one thing at a time. Swap the filter and leave the present oil in it. If the pressure goes up, you found the problem. If you go to a heavier oil weight and the pressure goes up, then all it tells you is there's excessive clearance somewhere in the engine and/or oil pump bleeding off oil pressure...and you already know that.

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