Hello all, it's too bad my first post had to be under these circumstances but anyway:

I had some carb issues (bogging/dying that I related to the accel pump) and bought a NAPA rebuild kit for a Holley 1920. This is the carb I surmised that I had, since it says 'Holley' on it and my Haynes shows the Holley 1920 as the closest looking to what I have.

Anyway, I started out dismantling and bagging and tagging every part according to this exploded view. My carb didn't actually look like this, but I figured that was just a product of the disclaimer at the top of the page. So after getting it dismantled and cleaned, I set out replacing the parts provided in the kit:

1x pump diaphragm assembly (#25)
1x economizer diaphragm assembly (#32)
1x economizer diaphragm gasket (#33)
1x fuel bowl gasket (#19)
1x needle and seat assembly (#13) (the needle is free-moving though, not enclosed in the seat like the original)
1x needle seat gasket (#14) (the original didn't have the gasket on it, but I used it this time)
1x float lever retainer (#20)
1x pump lever retainer (#5)
1x thick manifold-to-carb gasket (#37) (but mine's thicker?)
1x thin manifold-to-carb gasket (#38 ) (again, thicker than the one pictured
and then these extra parts:



The one in the foreground on the right is a small ball bearing in a cork gasket. Very small. Wasn't on the exploded view, dunno where they go.

I got everything back together anyhow, and setup the float and fast idle to their specs. But the float spring is awful, and makes the float droop. But I had to reuse it, there wasn't a replacement in the kit.

Anyway, I started with just the thick gasket on the manifold. Who'da thunk, my manual doesn't say whether the 225 has crankcase ventilation or not. I went to start it, and it turned over but wouldn't fire. Additionally, after I let off of the throttle, it started leaking out the yellow button pictured here:



Then I added the second gasket (it has the same hole where the first one does, I don't see how it'd help). Tried it again, and had the same effect. leaking after the throttle was let off.

So I don't know what I did wrong. There were a lot of parts on this exploded view that I didn't find in mine or were set up differently.

Now I'm stuck with a leaking, non-starting carb. This is my first carb rebuild ever and I would appreciate any advice. Thanks for the help in advance.

I should also mention that it had not leaked from the yellow button prior to my rebuilding it.

edit: I searched "Holley 1920 leak" and couldn't find anything that resembled my issue

_________________
-Brian

1971 Dodge Demon /6
1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L

that's an "antipercolating valve" wich's supposed to relieve gas fumes when you aren't pushing your accelerator pedal. This would help reduce hard hot start condition among other issues. If your valve is leaking significantly, you can be dealing with too high a float level.

_________________
Juan Ignacio Caino

Please use e-mail button istead of PM'ing. I do log in sometimes but I'll be answering quicker thru e-mail.

Welcome on the board.

Yup, as Juan says, liquid fuel should never come out of anyplace that high up on the carb. Either your float is very badly misadjusted too high, or it is heavy (soaked with fuel and no longer floating properly) in which case it needs to be replaced, or the inlet needle and seat aren't assembled correctly or are defective.

The float spring is not supposed to hold the float in an "up" position; there's probably nothing the matter with yours.

All slant-6s after 1962 have closed crankcase vent (and many '62s, and some '61s).

The big Holley 1920 operation and overhaul manual is here (pdf). It contains a great deal more information and better photos than the sheet that comes with a kit. The adjustment specs are specific to the carburetor type (1920 is the model; the type is stamped into the carb body on the vertical "wall" facing the front of the car at the front of the carb).

Haynes manuals are worse than useless; they contain incorrect and misleading information and they omit a great deal of info you need. Get a factory service manual.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

thanks so much. I went about the float adjustment, and thought I got it right. Maybe I didn't. I'll definitely check it again today.

_________________
-Brian



1971 Dodge Demon /6

1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L

Re-check the needle / seat, any small speck of junk embedded on the rubber tip will allow fuel to seep past and overflow the carb.
Poor machinning on the seat will also cause the same problem.
DD

Well I rebuilt the carb today, taking out the new needle and seat and replacing it with the old one. I also checked float level based on the PDF. It fired right up. It's just running a bit rich and at a lower rpm, but I'll address those as time wears on. Thanks for your help, everyone

_________________
-Brian



1971 Dodge Demon /6

1998 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L

Get a vacuum gauge and tach to set the idle mixture.

Welcome!

_________________
'72 Duster 198 stock cam, 3:23's Hookers on jack stands for 8 years in the driveway
'79 Maxivan 360 Offy Qjet Comp RV cam/rusting in the driveway.
93 D350 160HP Cummins Auto Dually Clubcab needs a injector pump
2005 Golden Couch Buick