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 Post subject: installing a kill switch
PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 12:54 pm 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:49 am
Posts: 19
Location: St.Louis
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How do I install a kill switch on my 225 s/6 ? Is there a preferable location?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 6:10 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 3:56 pm
Posts: 1967
Location: Dalton, GA
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Why do you need a kill switch. Thanks Ron Parker :D












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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 1:03 am 
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Joined: Fri Feb 29, 2008 10:49 pm
Posts: 1547
Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model: 1984 D100 Shorty Custom
All you would need to do is wire a fuse infront of a SPST switch, in series with the coil (+) wire. You flip the switch off, no power to coil, no start, no run.

Security measure I take it?

~THOR~

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:21 pm 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 855
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For point ignition cars, the kill switch is most often run to the points or (-) coil and shorts to ground. If you've got a tach installed, the tach signal usually comes from the same place.

For electronic ignition, I wouldn't do that as it could damage the ignition module, but I've not tried it.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 2:33 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 4:18 pm
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couldn't you install a switch to the starter? i think that would work....

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:06 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 855
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Many antitheft systems disable the starter using a relay, but every "kill" switch I've seen was designed to defeat the ignition; the theif could crank the car, but it wouldn't start.

To put a switch in series with the ignition will certainly work, but requires running 2 fairly heavy wires as the switch carries about 8A when the engine is running. A kill switch to the points normally carries no current and connects to ground, so you can get away with only 1 wire.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 11:09 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Sat Nov 29, 2003 5:45 pm
Posts: 1903
Location: Hamilton the STEEL CITY, ON
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Quote:
couldn't you install a switch to the starter? i think that would work....
it wont if the engine is already running.

now would be the time to ask if this kill switch is being used for anti-theft or racing purposes...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:20 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Thu Mar 20, 2008 4:18 pm
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well ya you use the key to start it and then you have to turn the swithch on to start it again

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:33 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13265
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
If you have a 67-71? Dart or Valiant, probably the best anti-theft measure you could take would be to install an A-body steering column from a 72-76 Dart or Valiant. Then you have the factory ignition switch in the dash AND the ignition switch in the column. If you did that and then ran a separate pushbutton switch for the starter motor and installed it somewhere hidden like under the driver's seat, then no-one would ever figure out how to hotwire the car.

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 Post subject: re: kill switch
PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 11:43 am 
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2 BBL ''SuperSix''
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Joined: Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:49 am
Posts: 19
Location: St.Louis
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Some one stole my 97 Neon (got it back, just some kids joy ridin!!)I don't want my truck stolen. Got clubs on both now, I thought a kill switch might be a good defence.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 12:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24786
Location: North America
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Keep in mind that hotwiring a slant-6 car is very easy regardless of how many kill switches you might install. One or two test leads (wire with alligator clips on each end) and one screwdriver and the car can be started right up. Securing the hood closed with a padlocked chain can go a pretty long way towards thwarting underhood hotwiring. The column-mounted ignition switch (which started in '70) is no impediment to hotwiring.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2008 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14745
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
Clubs are pretty useless against a real car thief. They will just use bolt cutters to cut the steering wheel and take it off. :shock:

Or so I've been told. :?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 9:40 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 9:51 am
Posts: 855
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Many car thieves are pretty brutal; if the hood is chained, they just bend it to gain access. Column locks and door locks are just ripped out with a slide hammer; windows just smashed; steering wheels just cut through. If the owner gets in the way, they shove him (dead or alive) in the trunk. Others just look for something easy and even very simple precautions go a long way.

Recent, a local Duster was stolen and later recovered; a month later, during a 2nd theft attempt, they couldn't start it (thanks to changes by the owner), so the would-be thieves just smashed all the windows.

Thieves generally don't go around carrying spare parts, so just remove the rotor - or get sneaky and put in a dummy parts. On professor in Chicago stopped repeated thefts by every day 1)disconnecting the battery and 2) putting in a dummy coil wire. Often he found the battery reconnected, but they never figured out the 2nd.

If the car's driven every day and that's too much effort, I'd consider a commercial time-delay ignition kill or fuel cutoff system; the theory being that if the car dies after it's gone a block, they're more likely to abandon it and less likely to kill the owner.


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