Hi all,

I have a Holley model 1920 1 bbl carb, and it's running way too rich - as in liquid fuel going to the cylinders...and boiling out of the gaskets under the intake manifolds...

I am trying to get a carb rebuild kit for it, but I am now confused, because I do not know it's original application, and therefore, which carb rebuild kit to get.

The numbers stamped on the top of the on the carb where the ID is supposed to be says:
"List 3276-1"
with a "685" stamped underneath.

On the other side of the carb is stamped 12R-31058.

I think it's from a '66 or '67 Dodge with a 225 ci slant 6.

Problem is, nobody has a rebuild kit unless I tell them it's from a '72 or '73 Dodge Dart Swinger...

Here are the kits that show to go to a Holley 1920:

Walker 15480A
Walker 15519A
BorgW 10392A
CRB 25574
CRB 25461
MPF 3533B
SP 14582 (from an IH Scout II website)

any help would be greatly appreciated as to which rebuild kit to get !!

Oh yeah, carb is bolted to an intake manifold that connects to a 2276 cc VW engine on my tractor autogyro...

It had a 60 main jet which I replaced with a 57, but it's still sending a bucketload of fuel into the intake.

The float spring was laying sideways...

And the baffle plate is missing, as well as the choke flap, and the vent valve arm, and there was silicone covering up the hole halfway down the throttle body as well as the overflow vent hole.

Anyway, it's a mess, and I want to rebuild it. I got Oreilly on the line with the 15480A and 15519A, and NAPA with the CRB 25574 and 25461...

Which one to get?

Also, who do I contact to get some Holley 1920 parts? (Vent valve lever, choke arm, choke plate, baffle plate etc)

Any help would be GREATLY appreciated!!

contact me at swrobinson@prodigy.net!

_________________
Tractor Gyrocopter with Holley 1920 Carb

All 1920's are very close, I don't think you would go wrong with the NAPA kit since they cover many years of 1920's. It sounds like fuel inlet (needle and seat) isn't shutting off or there is something causing it to hang up.

Sometimes a cap and can come off the economiser body and you can loose the steel ball. You just need to reinstall the ball and tap the cap back in place. Be sure it is staked well so it won't come out again.

It is pretty simple to rebuild. You can pick up 1920's off eBay or PM Slant Six Dan. He may know where you can get one.

_________________
Aggressive Ted

http://cid-32f1e50ddb40a03c.photos.live ... %20Swinger


74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG

OK...time for a careful rebuild with a quality kit and a new float. The Holley 1920 #3276-1 was a service replacement carburetor for 1966-1967 225 engines. The Walker kits are of very good quality, and the correct one for your carburetor is the #15480A. The correct float is Walker #100-14. It's best to get the kit specifically for your carburetor. The "all types, all years" kits, sadly, don't contain all the right parts for all the different carbs. Rather, they contain parts that are kinda-sorta-not-really correct for any carb. NAPA kits haven't been of particularly good quality for a long time now.
Uhh...h'mm. It sounds like this carb has been sufficiently abused and hacked that it may not be worth messing with. You may want to find something else to feed your VW engine.
You'll have to find a parts carb and rob the parts you need off of it...or use this carb for parts and find something fresher to build...or find something more appropriate to the VW engine altogether.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I found a parts carb for 21.00 on eBay yesterday...

I'm going to O'Reilly to get the 15480A and the 100-14 float today.

Thanks!!!


The carb was the preferred carb for the Valley Engineering / Culver Props guys in Rolla, Missouri for their purpose-built aviation motor.

They loved the Holley 1920, and used it with their 2276cc VW monster aviation motors putting out 100hp at 3800-4000 rpms.

However, the "remanufactured" Holley 1920's that they were getting from Kragen's, O'Reilly, NAPA, and Autozone were ABSOLUTE JUNK, so they reluctantly went to a 34mm Weber carburetor for their application.

They said they'd go back to the Holley 1920 if there was a reliable manufacturer out there.

Anyway, thanks for all the help, people!

I'll let you know how the rebuild goes!

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

_________________
Tractor Gyrocopter with Holley 1920 Carb

I've used the BWD 10392 and it's OK, but it's also in the works on 1963-1973 models...let us know how the walker version is, since all the rebuild kits are now becoming the 'one kit fits all' versions (why make 5 kits , when we can throw all the gaskets into one box in china and make about 50 cents more per sale...)

-D.Idiot

Two manifold flange gaskets - one thin, one really thick.

What's the deal with the thick one??

_________________
Tractor Gyrocopter with Holley 1920 Carb

It's a heat insulating gasket. If your application has trouble with cold running and no trouble with heat-related carburetion issues, use the thin gasket. If your application has no trouble in the cold but you get percolation, boilover, flooding and other hot-engine issues, use the thick gasket.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Carb rebuilt kit quality was excellent...

I took apart the carb, and cleaned everything, and put it back together with the new parts.

However, I need to know if the following parts are absolutely required for correct operation, as they were not installed in the carburetor:

accelerator pump sleeve and ball bearing. They're supposed to be installed below accelerator pump operating spring...I don't see how they can fit in the carburetor unless the sleeve fits inside of the spring. The slot in the carb body fits perfectly around the accelerator pump arm. Again, I don't see any purpose behind the sleeve and the ball bearing, as that cavity is not sealed - it's the side of the pump arm exposed to air. There is also a drain hole at the bottom of the cavity. Should the tiny silver ball bearing fit in that hole? Hmmmm.

accelerator pump return spring. The accelerator pump operating spring was installed, but not the return spring.

Are these parts required, and if so, where can I get them?

_________________
Tractor Gyrocopter with Holley 1920 Carb

Sleeve & ball bearing + return spring are only for 1962-'63 production Holley 1920s, not used on '64+ models.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.