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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2002 7:16 am 
hello sl6 sages- need some valued advice- this may be a job for the doctor. my 76 duster has been making a noticeable clunk from the left front each time i back outof the driveway and turn the manual steering left under load at low speed. yesterday i took off the wheel and did a careful inspection. manual disc brake , ball joints and geometry look good and tight with one exception. the left upper control arm is held to and turns on two yokes on the frame through which is bolted spacer washers and what appears is a pressed in metal encased bushing. the one on the left has washers spacers missing and it appears that thebushing is worn. thru bolt is shiny . it seems this is where the movement/clunking is coming from when the arm is stressed during steering. do i have to take the ball joint out and remove the control arm to replace the bushing. looks like i could just put a jack stand under the lower control arm to unload the torsion bar , unbolt the left side of the control arm push out the old bushing and push in the new, shoot the bolt and new spacers back in tighten thenut and be done. would love to hear from someone who has done this job and could advise if my approach is correct. thanks tons paladin.also- are these parts available?

callpaladin@aol.com


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2002 8:43 am 
Quote:
: hello sl6 sages- need some valued advice- this
: may be a job for the doctor. my 76 duster
: has been making a noticeable clunk from the
: left front each time i back outof the
: driveway and turn the manual steering left
: under load at low speed. yesterday i took
: off the wheel and did a careful inspection.
: manual disc brake , ball joints and geometry
: look good and tight with one exception. the
: left upper control arm is held to and turns
: on two yokes on the frame through which is
: bolted spacer washers and what appears is a
: pressed in metal encased bushing. the one on
: the left has washers spacers missing and it
: appears that thebushing is worn. thru bolt
: is shiny . it seems this is where the
: movement/clunking is coming from when the
: arm is stressed during steering. do i have
: to take the ball joint out and remove the
: control arm to replace the bushing. looks
: like i could just put a jack stand under the
: lower control arm to unload the torsion bar
: , unbolt the left side of the control arm
: push out the old bushing and push in the
: new, shoot the bolt and new spacers back in
: tighten thenut and be done. would love to
: hear from someone who has done this job and
: could advise if my approach is correct.
: thanks tons paladin.also- are these parts
: available?


I am a little confused. Are we talking about the upper control arm bushings? If so, yes, you can support the car and the left frt suspension, with a jackstand under the lower control arm. Loosen and remove the two cam bolts, swing the upper control arm around and replace the bushings without even removing the upper ball jt. fom the stg knuckle if you have the neat tool to do it. It is kinda like a giant c-clamp, with a bunch of different size jaws to fit the bshg and the c-arm. If you don't have one of those, you'll have to separate the upper ball jt. to remove the control arm from the car, put the c-arm in a vise and use an air chisel to remove the old bushings or use a press to remove the old bshgs and press in new ones. Replace the arm, using a manual or the other side as a guide for the cam bolts, and which way the bolt heads face. You'll have to eyeball the alignment till you drive it to an alignment shop.

lanctof@wsdot.wa.gov


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2002 12:33 pm 
Quote:
: I am a little confused. Are we talking about
: the upper control arm bushings? If so, yes,
: you can support the car and the left frt
: suspension, with a jackstand under the lower
: control arm. Loosen and remove the two cam
: bolts, swing the upper control arm around
: and replace the bushings without even
: removing the upper ball jt. fom the stg
: knuckle if you have the neat tool to do it.
: It is kinda like a giant c-clamp, with a
: bunch of different size jaws to fit the bshg
: and the c-arm. If you don't have one of
: those, you'll have to separate the upper
: ball jt. to remove the control arm from the
: car, put the c-arm in a vise and use an air
: chisel to remove the old bushings or use a
: press to remove the old bshgs and press in
: new ones. Replace the arm, using a manual or
: the other side as a guide for the cam bolts,
: and which way the bolt heads face. You'll
: have to eyeball the alignment till you drive
: it to an alignment shop.


I have not seen the tool for removing the bushings, but that may work if you can get one. I know that the bushings are usually cut out with an air chisel and it has to be done carefully so you don't cut into the control arm. It also takes quite a bit of pressure to get the new bushing in. I would remove the entire control arm and take it to a shop to have it done. If you mess it up you will need to replace the control arm. You will also need to inspect the shiny part of the bolt. I have seen these get worn half way through from banging around lose. It would be best to replace the bolt to make sure that the alignment can be done.

Chuck

webmaster@omnipages.com


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 22, 2002 1:16 pm 
Quote:
: You can replace the upper control arm bushings.
: Support the car and the left frt
: suspension, with a jackstand under the lower
: control arm. Loosen and remove the two cam
: bolts, swing the upper control arm around
: and replace the bushings without even
: removing the upper ball jt. fom the stg
: knuckle if you have the neat tool to do it.
: It is kinda like a giant c-clamp, with a
: bunch of different size jaws to fit the bshg
: and the c-arm. If you don't have one of
: those, you'll have to separate the upper
: ball jt. to remove the control arm from the
: car, put the c-arm in a vise and use an air
: chisel to remove the old bushings or use a
: press to remove the old bshgs and press in
: new ones. Replace the arm, using a manual or
: the other side as a guide for the cam bolts,
: and which way the bolt heads face. You'll
: have to eyeball the alignment till you drive
: it to an alignment shop.


Good advice, yes, the upper control arm bushing(s) can be changed "under car" with the correct tools. You can make this tool with a 3+ inch long piece of pipe or tube which slips over the bushing. Use a long piece of 7/16-14 threaded rod, big washers and nuts to "draw-out" the bushing. You can "pull-in" re-install the new bushing by reversing the tool set-up on the upper "A" arm. (control arm)

This job takes some heavy thread cranking but it works most of the time. Inspect the press area closely, some bushings have lock rings, spot welds or rust holding the bushing "shell" in place. If all else fails, bust loose the upper ball joint and take the unit to a machine shop.
DD


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