will this cam work with a turbo setup? better than a stock cam or not so much? i got it wanting to do an n/a motor but the more i read into it im leaning tward a turbo setup now and am wondering if its worth putting this in now.

Advertised Duration
264 int./264 exh.
Advertised Exhaust Duration
264
Advertised Intake Duration
264
Basic Operating RPM Range
1,200-5,000
Duration at 050 inch Lift
220 int./220 exh.
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift
220
Exhaust Valve Lash
0.012 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.440 in.
Grind Number
264S
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift
220
Intake Valve Lash
0.010 in.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.440 in.
Lobe Separation (degrees)
110
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio
0.440 int./0.440 exh.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Looks like a Comp cam, they get beat up pretty good on this forum, thats what im running in a supercharged slant but im also useing 1.6 rockers giving me about .475 lift. Seams to work good in my motor, if you already have the cam I would try it, in a performance build n/a or boosted would be better than stock cam,I would say,but only a dyno would know for sure

Yeah, it is a comp cam. It's the 264s, do you have the kit or just the cam Junior?

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1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car

i originally bought just the cam but i got the 340 springs and new lifers to fill in the other pieces.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

Then I would give it a shot, put the cam in, drive the car, see if it feels any better, if not, take it out and sell it, not gonna hurt to try.

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1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car

its a fair bit of work and time pulling the motor to change it out and some money for gaskets. was wondering if someone knew off the top of their head what specs work well. i came across a rundown of what worked and didnt but i cant for the life of me remember where.

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1966 Plymouth Valiant, 225, 3 on the tree, 8 1/4 3.21 sure grip, hyperpac, holley 650dp, holset h1c

This is the cam I plan on using with mine, but I have no experience with it, so I can't say. I want to run this cam with the lifter/valvetrain kit, ported/polished cylinder head with engine builder valves, and an undecided turbo setup. Probably be a t25 to the blowthru one barrel.

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1965 Plymouth Belvedere II Turbo Project - SOLD
2002 Subaru OBS
1995 Lexus LS400 Race Car

The lobe separation angle on that cam is low for a turbo motor. You want a cam with with 114-116 degrees lobe separation angle for a turbo build. This helps the turbo spool up at a lower RPM. This is why the stock cams tend to work so well with a turbo. Stock cams all run around 114-116 degrees lobe separation angle. The higher the lobe separation angle, the smoother the idle. The lower the number, the rougher the idle is. Turbo engines don't need a lopey idle to make good power. Normally aspirated engines tend to benefit at mid range and higher rpm's from the low lobe separation angle. Nitrous engines like the same lobe separation angle.

I called Comp Cams several years ago and they said they would custom grind a cam for me. They recommended a lobe separation angle of 115 degrees, duration @ .050" of 214 intake, 224 exhaust and a valve lif of as high as the heads can handle(.525" to .550" max). This will give a cam that spools up quick, then pulls hard up to the 5500 rpm redline. If you want more RPM, then increase the duration @ .050" lift. There's no need to put excessive lift on your cam if your heads and intake can't support it. From talking to Mike Jeffries, the max a slant head will support is about .600" lift. A stock unported head max's out around .460" lift.

Joel Harris

Joel, I called all over the place, trying to get a cam with .525"-lift and was told everywhere I called, that the short-duration cams that work well in turbo slant sixes dictate the maximum lift, because if you try to run a lot of lift, with a short duration cam, the profile of the lobe (we're talking stock, flat tappets, here, not rollers nor mushroom lifters,) will be so steep to get up to that (say, .525") lift, that the edge of the lifter will act like a cutting tool on the lobe and "machine" it down, in short order.

I ended up ordering a cam from Comp that has a 220/210 duration @ .050"-lift, with as much lift as I could buy, which was, I think, .484" at that duration. 115 lobe separation.

224-degrees is, I think, a lot of duration for a turbo car, but I am new at this, so, don't take MY word for it; it might work just fine. The extra duration might work in your favor, allowing more lift.

I just wanted to point that out.

Bill, in Conway, Arkansas

Bill, sorry I should have caught that when I wrote it. If you add "as turbo engines" to the end of that sentence, it will make sense.

One thing to remember when you call around for cams is that slants use a larger diameter lifter than Chevy and Ford's do. You can get a much more aggressive profile on a mopar cam than you can on other brand engines. Most of the cam companies tend to ignore this when designing Mopar cams. The only company I'm aware of that take advantage of this is Hughes. Unfortunately they don't make slant 6 cams. So all of the flat tappet cams you can buy for a Mopar from the any company other than Hughes is designed to run a smaller diameter lifter.

Just out of curiousity, has anyone called Hughes to see if they will grind a slant 6 cam? If we could buy semi-finished cores and send them to Hughes, it might make them think about it. Anyone know where to get semi-finished cam cores?

Joel Harris

This thread may have some blank sources for you, it originally was for a different direction.

http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic ... cam+blanks

-D.Idiot

Joel, Okay; I get it, now. I didn't now that... thanks.

I had heard several places, that Comp Cams (among others,) was using Chevy profiles on Mopar cams, but it never dawned on me that the bigger lifters in a Mopar would not be an advantage (as they should be,) if the cams were ground using Chevy masters.

Thaks for pointing that out!

Bill

Well, being a virtual "newbie" (only 4 years since I first laid hands ona a slant six) I don't know buch about them, obviously. I do have 59 years of hot-rodding experience with V8's to fall back on, but I'm not sure any of that information is very relevant to slant six technology.

What seems to me to be the bottom line with all of this slant six buisness is the fact that the small bores, (and they ARE "small,") dictates valve sizes to a very large degree, and the fact is, this motor was originally designed to have 170 cubic inches.

That fact creates a profound and ironclad philosophy, relative to trying to get good specific output out of this motor.

The head is most of the problem... not all, but most.

What I am trying to say here (and doing an incredibly poor job of it,) is that after reading and listening for four years, the inescapable conclusion that hits ME in the face is, the 225 version of this motor is virtually strangulated in normally-aspirated form, because of the 170 head and valves. You can install somewhaat bigger valves in it, and expertly port the existing head archetecture to a fare-thee-well, but "really good" numbers for the intake ports seem to be 220cfm, and that's for a 39-cubic inch cylinder, which just happens to be the same size as the cylinders on a 301 Chevy V8. The 1967 Z-28 comes to mind.

You can buy heads for that motor that flow over 300cfm.

See the problem?

I realize that the /6 is not in competition with the V8 cars from Chevy, but am only mentioning this for the comparison flow rates, so as to emphasize how far from optimum, the /6 head is.

If you add to that unfortunate breathing capability, the fact that with a stroke that is well-over 4", it becomes obvious that it's never going to be an 8,000-rpm powerhouse, so, you can't get your horsepower through outrageous rpm's.


BUT, this little engine is built like a brick pagoda... almost like a Diesel! It's roots as an aluminum engine (and the fact that they didn't change much when they switched it to 100% cast-iron production,) have given it a stout, stiff, incredibly-strong, infrastructure that can withstand boost levels that would blow the crank of my 360 Magnum right into the dirt!

Five hundred horsepower (and more,) is not an expensive nor technically-difficult thing for the leaning tower of power to achieve with a correctly-tuned turbo system. The 4-main-bearing, forged crank is short and very stiff, suffering from none of the "whip" that acompanies some of the the 7-main-bearing designs.

The engine leans over to make room for an efficient header/turbo interface, and comes equipped with an automatic trasmission SO GOOD, that the elite of all drag-racing transmission companies, Pro-Trans, has chosen it as the trany on which to base their racing units.

People throw slant sixes away... and if you have to BUY one, they are dirt cheap! Getting one is usually no problem. the one we have was given to us...

The 500+hp turbo motors make thei awesome power below 5,500 rpm, so stock valvetrain pieces work fine, and not much valve spring pressure is needed to keep things under control, so the flat tappet cams live a long, healthy, life...

Do I sound like I love there forced-induction slants? It's because I do...

That hairdryer makes an end run around all that's wrong with this engine as regards trying to get good specific output out of it, normally-aspirated.

It' so good... I wish ~I~ had thought of it!!!!

Thanks for listening...


Bill

What was that whole reply about? I just sent the thread on companies known to have semi-finished cam blanks as requested by Joel, it originated when the question of roller cams came up early on (obviously the roller cam topic is pretty dead, but the companies are not, if normal flat tappet blanks are needed).

That reply was an effort to show what I feel, is the lack of necessity for a roller tappet cam in a slant six. That is ALL just my opinion, and like I said, I am a relative newcomer at this slant bidness, so, take it as what it is; just MY opinion; your mileage may vary.

From what I can see of the potential of this engine, normally-aspirated, getting a substantial amount of "specific output" (horsepower-per-cubic inch, say, 1.75-per cube, or, 394 horsepower) is not going to happen, (on gas, anyway) regardless of any sophisticated manifolding, roller cams, and exotic ignition systems you add to it, BECAUSE, the bottleneck remains.

The head.

You can't make horsepower with a 225 by twisting it to the moon (like you can with the 170) because te piston speed gets dangerously high, at the rpm's necessary for that M.O.

The point I was trying (unsuccessfully, apparently,) to make was that these 500+ hp turbo'd slant sixes are being run with mild-duration, flat-tapet cams, with no need for a roller. They just increase boost levels to accommodate the necessary flow, so that high rpms
and a more sophisticated valvetrain (like, a roller setup) is not necessary. And, they don't turn many rpm (5,500, or so...)

So, as much as I wanted one at one time, I have learned (at least, to MY satisfaction,) that roller cams are not needed to make GREAT horsepower from these engines; just a well-tuned turbo of the appropriate size.

If I wanted to make a lot of (specific output) horsepower from a normally-aspirated, inline six, I'd look around for an engine with big bores, to accommodate big valves, and corresponding ports.

But the leaning tower of power and a hairdryer would seem to be the simple answer for us Mopar guys... and that's the way I am going to go.

Welll, it's not "simple," for sure.... but, it's FUN!!!


Just my 2-cents-worth, nothing more... lol!

Bill