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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:08 am 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 9:05 am
Posts: 55
Location: Cedaredge, CO
Car Model:
The Economaster was in the mail yesterday. Thanks for the fast shipping! I bolted it on as soon as the accountant came home. It ran good out of the box on the hot engine. I started it this morning to check the choke adjustment. It idled smooth but I am not sure the pulloff is opening the choke far enough.

Do you have any tuneup specs for the R7583 on a 1965 225 with Auto trans? I am curious about the idle mixture adjustment too. It was set at 2-3/4 turns out and I left it there for the time being. That setting is on the lean side as RPM increases as I turned the screw out. Any guidelines on idle setting?

This is my first experience tuning a Holley 1920 and I expect the Economaster might have different specs than the standard 1920. I will get a full report this afternoon from the accountant about how it worked.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:37 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24446
Location: North America
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Glad it got there quickly for you.

The same procedure is used to adjust the idle mixture on this carburetor as on any other you might install on that car. There's no spec for where the mixture adjustment screw should be in terms of turns in or out, you have to adjust by engine behaviour: Make sure the ignition system and PCV system are all in good shape, plugs and PCV valve are clean and working correctly, ignition timing is set pretty close to correctly. Get the engine thoroughly warmed up, all the way up to full operating temperature, connect a tachometer, and then you're ready to work with the idle speed and mixture adjusting screws.

First, use the curb idle speed adjusting screw (the one closest to the carb body) to set the idle speed to 650 rpm. Then, go round the other side of the car and adjust the mixture screw clockwise ¼-turn at a time, slowly, pausing for a few seconds after each ¼-turn, until the engine just begins to drop RPM because it's too lean (you can use your ears to detect this, but watching the tachometer helps). Then, turn the mixture screw back counterclockwise ¼-turn at a time or so, again working slowly and pausing, and keeping careful track of the number of ¼-turns, until the engine just barely begins to drop RPM because it's too rich. Then, you turn the mixture screw clockwise half the number of quarter-turns you counted between lean fall-off and rich fall-off, and that's your final adjustment. Then re-check the idle speed and readjust to 650 rpm (use the tachometer), and you're all done setting the idle mixture and speed.

It's certainly possible to adjust the choke pull-off and fast idle speed. What symptom did you get that suggests to you the pull-off isn't opening far enough?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 10, 2006 1:11 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 9:05 am
Posts: 55
Location: Cedaredge, CO
Car Model:
The accountant called after she got to work. She said the car has a new name: "Smoooth!".

It doesn't shudder, shlobber and shake, rattle and rock and roll at the stop lights anymore! I could not get the old BBS to idle. I worked it over several times. Pulled the plugs and cleaned the passages and even coated the gaskets with gasket sealer. Nothing worked. I used it up!

I am going to recheck the choke in the morning.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 3:33 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2004 9:05 am
Posts: 55
Location: Cedaredge, CO
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Well I found out why the choke didn't seem to work right. I drove the car myself and it ran pretty bad. I found that I had somehow disconnected the vacuum advance line from the distributor when I installed the carb. It runs much better with the vacuum advance working!

I think I need two of these on the engine. One just isn't enough on the big end! Acceleration is leisurely at freeway speeds. The old thrashed BBS made a lot more power. Don't know what I am going to do about that. Might try fattening it up. First I need to do a thorough tune up as it hasn't been tuned in a while.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 6:17 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Quote:
Well I found out why the choke didn't seem to work right. I drove the car myself and it ran pretty bad. I found that I had somehow disconnected the vacuum advance line from the distributor when I installed the carb. It runs much better with the vacuum advance working!
I'll bet it does!
Quote:
Acceleration is leisurely at freeway speeds. The old thrashed BBS made a lot more power. Don't know what I am going to do about that. Might try fattening it up. First I need to do a thorough tune up as it hasn't been tuned in a while.
Yeah, a good careful tune, valve adjustment and even distributor recurving would be the next step. Use NGK ZFR5N spark plugs, without the metal ring gaskets that come with them.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 11:44 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Mon Jan 15, 2007 5:05 pm
Posts: 3767
Location: Black Diamond, WA
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Dan,

What #jet did this Economaster have in it?

Thanks,

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74 Swinger, 9.5 comp 254/.435 lift cam, 904, ram air, electric fans, 2.5" HP2 & FM70 ex, 1920 Holley#56jet, 2.76 8 3/4 Sure-Grip, 26" tires, 25+MPG


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