After spending all day in the garage yesterday (still trying to get everything back together so I can start the new engine in the Swinger), I have a new hatred regarding auto-repair: bending hard lines. This replaces my old "favorite" — installing a slant cylinder head and lining up the dowels and getting the heater hose lined up with the block while not crushing my fingers or ruining the head gasket <whew!>.

From what I've read, I thought flaring was the hardest part of the job. Although it took some practice, I pretty much had flaring down by the end of the day. Bending frickin' 5/16 hardline for a new tranny cooler line, on the other hand, was a NIGHTMARE for me. I had intended to create a matching return line for the tranny and a new fuel line, too, but gave up and ended up using the old ones.

I had the hardest time trying to make the tightest bends like the factory lines without collapsing them, and just holding them so I could bend the right direction. Admittedly, I was using a cheapo bender, but it's hard to believe another one would've made a huge difference.

Bending my own lines was the most unrewarding waste of time I've spent since I've been working on cars. In the future, if I can find prebent lines, I'll ALWAYS use those over making my own, no matter what they cost.

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vm

Following all the factory bends are a pita especially since they are so close to each other. Maybe make more of a straight through route?

What sort of line are you using? 5/16" steel line may be a challenge but wait till you try stainless....

Quality of the bender is also important. The "Rigid" brand one I got from home depot does a pretty decent job and bend radius is good but handles are short so it takes some muscle.

I always tell people the hardest part of installing EFI was laying under the car and bending a fuel return line...

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines since 1988

Yeah, hardlines are a real hassle. Transmission cooler lines, especially, are a damnnuisance; they always seem to hit something, rattle, vibrate, make noise, get in the way of changing the starter, put tension on the radiator lower tank, etc.

I've been thinking about visiting a hydraulic lines shop (the kind of place that makes ultrahigh-pressure flexible hoses for hydraulically-operated road and industrial machinery) and having some flexible trans cooler lines made up. I'd come off the trans fittings, leave enough slack for the trans to rock when shifted or the engine accelerated, run up along a frame member and/or clipped to the floor pan on the left side of the car, all the way forward, then zag over to the radiator fittings.

Pre-bent brake and fuel lines are available for a surprising number of A-body Mopars.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

I considered exactly the same thing (even before I knew it would be such a pita to bend hard versions). In fact, a few years ago someone on a forum told me about a place not far away whereby you could take your existing lines in and they'd make flexible versions. Unfortunately, I lost the info with the name of the place, and figured out it might run as much as $100. Those two reason are why I decided to try and bend 'em myself.

I've since reevaluated my decision...

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vm

My hardlines kinked during tranny install. The kink was right at the transmission - I cut that part off and fabbed up two pieces from the tranny fittings to about the bellhousing, and joined it to the undamaged piece with rubber hose (after flaring both ends slightly with the first step of a double flare).

I remember pricing out all the fittings, braided rubber line, etc to recreate them using flex hoses and it came out to be well over $100.

I find bending my own 5/16" lines very rewarding. For 7 bucks I can recreate a line that would cost me anywhere from $30 up to $150. Granted, I went through quite a few pieces of stock when I first started. My least favorite automotive chore is messing with stubborn, rusty old exhaust equipment. You might say that is rather "exhausting"!

Russ

I just love it when you get done bending a line and as soon as you hit the road you hear the dreaded brrrrrrr or nrrrrrrr of the line vibrating against something.

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82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2

i never minded bending fuel/trans lines, but i always use aluminum. the things i really hate are sanding bondo perfectly flat, wetsanding new paint and drilling factory spot welds.

Is aluminum durable enough to hold up to the flexing required for our transmission cooler lines? They certainly would be easier to bend and flare.

Many NAPA auto parts stores can make flexible hydraulic lines for you. You'll probably be looking at $100 + for a set of tranny lines, but they sure are easier to work with.

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Most likely, yes, but I don't see where much flex comes in anyway. Tranny lines are pretty low pressure, and you could probably get away with just running rubber lines connected to hose barbs instead of messing with full blown hydraulic lines and such; then your only worry would be abrasion and heat.

Re: aluminum lines... No matter what you do, DON'T use it for brake lines. There are some places it's gotta be steel, and that's one of 'em.

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Used to own:
'82 Dodge D150
Erson 270 Cam, O/S valves, mild port work, ~9.5:1 compression

Currently fighting with an '85 VW Cabriolet

My other passion

I bought a new aftermarket radiator, and one of the trans cooler lines did not line up correctly-
I kinked it pretty bad right at the radiator fitting, so I just cut it back about 4" from the fitting and added a short piece of rubber hose.
Intended as as a temporary fix, but if it holds up, I'll probably just live with it...

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BoatAnchor
'71 Swinger /6-225
SuperSix, EI, front discs, 2.25" exh.

I just happened to be rifting through the curent Car Craft today while waiting for a pescription and, wouln't you know it, there is an article in it on bending 5/16" steel lines!

Russ

I actually like bending hard lines it can be alot of fun o also i forgot to add to make it a little easier on the bigger lines you can always pack them full of sand and bend them (so they don't kink) but don't flare them until you get all the sand out ( I usually let the parts washer run threw them for a few minutes then blow them dry)