Has anyone tried this?

http://www.designed2drive.com/

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

Someone homebrewed one of those a while back. I was looking for the post over the weekend but couldn't find it.

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David Kight
'62 Valiant Signet, White
'98 Dodge Dakota
'06 Jeep Liberty

Growing older is unavoidable but growing up is strictly optional.

That'll work great with V8s, but I'm not sure how the module will hold up down in the splash zone (oil and water...and saltwater, for those of us who live in the salt belt). Might survive just fine, might not; I'd just have to try it out.

There's an Australian-made bracket that mounts the HEI module to the body of a can-type coil, but it is from Hemi Performance, and as such is staggeringly overpriced. And, I'm not convinced that's such a grand location for the module, either.

There is always the option of just using GM's own work, and bolting this combination module/coil unit to the inner fender:







This assembly is used in just about all gasoline-fired GM pickups and RWD SUVs from '96 to '07. Got a nice sturdy mounting bracket, heat sink for the module, E-core ignition coil...all in one. Wherever you are, you can probably pull these out of wrecking yards all day long for very little money, and you can just grab the watertight connectors for the coil and module while you're there. The only "gotchya" is that this coil has a male (spark plug type) secondary terminal rather than the female type on our original coils, so you'd need to get an appropriate coil-to-distributor-cap cable.

Photos and info courtesy McNoople.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Nope, that's even uglier that my handiwork.

I'll just leave the module on my inner fender for now.

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

I had thought of attaching my module to the distributor in some fashion as well but considering the lack of space to make it viable and as dan mentioned, below the splash zone, I figured it would be at best anti-constructive.
I did, however, inquire about the idea of using said coil pack months ago but recieived little response. I'm glad to hear now, its workable
For those wanting to eliminate the lean burn, its a beautiful sight

The aluminum heat sink in the setup Dan listed works great, with it mounted on the inner fender well the HEI module runs very cool & should last better than having it anywhere on the engine. Aluminum also helps it shed the heat better & will transfer it to the fender well better than being bolted straight down. It also looks good when cleaned up & could even be polished a bit to make it look better. You can even go as far as making or finding a metal cap to mount over the module and put rubber grommets in each end to help keep even more moisture off the module & it looks like a factory sealed unit. I am making one out of a aluminum heat sink I got at the local electronics store and the wires exit threw the bottom, then I drilled wholes threw the fenderwell & take the wires down threw the inside of the fender & bring them back out down near the dizzy so it hides all the wiring & all you see is a heat sink with a metal cap/box in the center of it. This is even better when using the 7 pin with a MegaSquirt where you have more wires to hide. I just don't like wires running everywhere in a engine compartment & probably go to far for most in finding a way to hind them. Its extra work but to me its worth it. The coil in that setup also puts out very good spark & there is after market coils to replace it if even more spark is wanted. But for a $10.00 - $20.00 junk yard score they are a very good setup even if you don't mount it the way it comes & will put out more spark than some of the Yellow coils that you might pay good money for.

440 Source sells a Ecoil like this that is higher voltage (55,000 volts) and has a quick rise rate that helps it run cooler put out more voltage in the higher RPMs a lot. It comes with a nice anodized black aluminum cover to make it look even better with Bolt on lugs for the wiring hook ups. I believe it is around $34.00 and works a lot better than many aftermarket coils that cost a lot more if there was a need for even more spark.

http://www.440source.com/distributors.htm


The setup that SlantValaint listed is a cool setup itself. And may have a advantage because of the shorter wiring although it may not make any difference either. But for most Mopars that would be sweet & easy. The Slant Six though with its Dizzy down low could be a problem as others mentioned. But at a price of $40.00 for a aluminum plate you could pay for a coil & module but it have to involve a little work instead of just bolting on.


Jess

I like that coil and bracket assy, and thought I would use it on my "HEI" conversion. Went to 4 bone yards. The only two that had them, would not take them off good motors. OK, try the dealer, just a couple of pieces of stamped steel and a aluminum heat sink, should be fairly cheap. NOT.
One bracket $28.30, other bracket $27.46, heatsink $16.00. List prices. Guess I make my own.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 170 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170
64 Valiant 4dr 225

I know im just setting myself up for a curse but i just did this convertion on my car and i used a ford module as my heat sink I just dugg all the rubberey $#!+ out of it and drilled my 2 holes for the GM module and it looks great (it can be polished or painted) i will try to take some pics and post them

The above info was very helpful.

I'm gathering parts to change to the HEI setup for my 1980 D-150. I pulled a coil with the bracket off a GMC suv for $15 from the local pic n pull. I got home and wasn't sure if I had the right coil, but the above pictures verified it. Mine is missing the heat sink though. I pulled a few heat sinks out of scrap computers that I might be able to use.

Here is a link to the setup I got off the 1995 Jimmy or Safari (not sure which it was).

http://picasaweb.google.com/maierscott/GMCCoil#

One question. Which vehicle should I reference to find the right coil to distributor cap wire? Will the NAPA Belden #701050 wire work? I'm thinking about putting Magnecor wires in so any help with specific part #'s would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Here's mine for reference.

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'72 4 dr Dart
'63 4 dr Dart

Here is the part number for that HEI bracket ACDELCO 10474610 heat sink, there is a pic in the link.

There are some other examples and links in this link.

hellion_locdogg: Nice setup you have, just be certain the module has good ground. Is that coil bracket bought separately, if so, where? Looks much like the ones used by Mallory and some others.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

That is a really slick way to mount it, I like it! However, it says right in the text of the aforementioned link, "It will not work on the Mopar slant 6 electronic distributor. Sorry." Bummer.

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Where does one get the appropritate coil to distributor cap cable?

You should read the links in the FAQs.

All suppliers of spark plug wires have those, or you can make one yourself. To put it simple, it is a wire with spark plug terminals in both ends.

Olaf.

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Aspenized

I made mine from another doner cable.

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'72 4 dr Dart
'63 4 dr Dart