Hi all. I've been on .com for a while and always just lurked here, but for obvious reasons I'm now one of many who have switched over. I'll do my best to be a good citizen over here.

I'm hoping someone can help me with a quick question: is there a headlight relay on a 72 dart or does all the headlight power run through the dash switch? My headlights are working most of the time but occasionally they just won't turn on or will actually quit while I'm driving. All other markers/tails are fine all the time, it's just the main headlights.

Sounds an awful lot like a faulty relay, don't it? At least it's worth asking before I go dropping the column, taking out the dash, and changing the switch itself. If anybody knows where the relay might live, I'd greatly appreciate the info.

Thanks

Nope, these cars never had headlamp relays from the factory. All the power goes directly through the headlamp switch, which contains a thermal-cutout, self-resetting circuit breaker. Sounds like you need a new headlamp switch, though you really ought to put in relays...and maybe some good headlamps while you're at it!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thank you very much sir. Relays do sound like a good idea - I put them on all my old Honda motorcycles and they've done wonders. The Dart will get them at some point, but for now I'll swap the switch.

One more question: are there any major spots where the headlamp system grounds? Might as well clean those too while I'm at it.

The headlamps are grounded via a thin wire to the nearest piece o' sheetmetal. This is one of many reasons why our cars don't have very bright lights!

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Is it necessary to drop the column and remove the dash to get at the headlight switch on the wide-body A's?

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO

No it isn't. It can be tough, but it can be done. The only "tricks" are finding the button to release the knob/shaft from the switch (which is easier with the new part in hand) and unplugging the harness after the collar nut is removed allowing the switch to hang free of the dash.
I'd listen to Dan where the lighting is concerned. I used a pair of his Cibie' headlamps and rolled my own relay setup and had WAY better headlights than most any new car on the road which oftentimes are really unimpressive. Go drive a new fullsize Chevrolet truck and you'll see what I mean.

-James

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and this is one of those cases in which you really should disconnect the battery..............

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

Yep, ya gotta remove the battery negative terminal, because the lights will turn on (and stay on) when you withdraw the switch knob & shaft from the switch. My fave trick for dealing with the release button: Reach round under the dash til you find the release knob, note which finger or thumb you can reach it with, then tape a penny to that finger/thumb and go back under the dash, now prepared to press the button sufficiently hard to release the knob shaft.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

On my 64 it took a really hard pull to get the knob out (after it was past the detent lock). Quite a bit harder than I expected.

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Ed
64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

True, but if there was a relay you could just pull that! Sorry guys, I guess I've been working on new cars a little too long.

-James

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He did the mash he did the Longhurst Mash . My Kind of coach Possum












Hell New Team New Coach We Did The Monster Mash

Thanks all. I swapped out the switch with another one I had and they're working fine. (Of course the old occasionally faulty one was on a good working streak before I yanked it, but at least now I have a better chance of not getting stranded without lights)

Just FYI, it is possible to take the switches apart and clean the contacts inside them and relube them; usually that is enough to make them work again. The internal breaker is very hard to fix.