Can someone recommend a good re-build kit for my carburetor?

69 Dodge Coronet 440; 225 cid Slant Six; Holley 1920 Single Barrel Carb.

The stamped numbers on the carb just above the float bowl (slightly to the left) are as follows:

6260 2
2045

I would like to re-build the carburetor and freshen it up. I just got the car running and this will be the last step before I start posting the "why does my car have a rough idle" threads. Starts great, runs fine when cold. The carb seems to step down just fine while it is warming up. Then it has a rough idle. So far I have done a fresh oil change, oil filter, fuel filter, new gas tank, blew the fuel lines out, new fuel pump, new ignition coil and new spark plugs. I adjusted the timing and adjusted the valves. She starts like a champ!

When running warm, it has a rough idle. I can hear some "pops" coming out of the exhaust. Is this backfiring? In Reverse or Drive, the idle gets worse and the engine will eventually die. The OIL light flickers while in "R" or "D". I assume because the engine is struggling to stay on.

I'm hoping that re-building the carb will help. If not, maybe the engine is worn out? Bad compression?

Anyway, can someone please recommend a re-build kit for me to order? I would appreciate it.

Thanks.

~Angel

Angel
Walker makes the best kits. That being said you need to do a valve adjustment as this will get you started off right. Use the search function. Or someone may post a link. After thats done then recheck and see if you think you need a carb kit.
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

Welcome on the board. There's a great deal of information about repairing Holley 1920 carburetors like yours linked from this post. Try for a Walker brand kit; they're the best quality. Kit number is 15480A. You'll also want a new float, Walker number 100-14. Investigate the carburetor's condition carefully; if the metering block has let its check balls go, or there's visible internal corrosion, or the carburetor has the sandblasted surface finish indicative of a "remanufactured" unit, you may not want to invest the time and effort into a rebuild, and find a new carburetor instead — if you eventually want one, send me a PM. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions are in this thread, and don't forget your car requires periodic valve adjustment. You may want to do the Fuel line mod as well, and you'll definitely want these books.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

Thanks for the replies. I'll get the Walker kit and float as recommended.

I'll start tearing down the carb this evening and check into it's condition. I'll make sure to pay attention to the areas you have called out, Dan. Thanks for all of the links. I will definitely follow the information very closely.

Judging by the 40 years of grime on the car/engine I'm going to guess that nobody has ever had this carb remanufactured, but you never know. So I will look into it and make sure it is a suitable candidate.

Thanks again for the quick replies.

I found that Walker label on the package in a NAPA box on a recent purchase from NAPA.

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

H'mmm...that's interesting (and encouraging if it's a trend rather than a one-off); NAPA usually sell Echlin kits, which are passable but not great.

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

The NAPA part number is 2-5461. The sale price was $22.29 before tax.

The NAPA box has NAPA/ECHLIN written on it however the inside kit has P15480A inscribed on the end cover along with "made in USA"

Perhaps the old adage "you can't tell a book by it's cover" applies?

In today's economy perhaps Echlin bought out Walker?

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1965 Dart 110k, 225, Carter BBD Super Six, 2 1/4 single exh., sbp manual scarebird front disc, 7 1/4 rear 2.94 sure grip, 14 x 4.5 OEM wheels, 833 OD with hyd. throwout bearing, HEI, electric fan, ram air/heated air, Accusump. http://plymouthcarclub.com/

Echlin actually no longer exist as a standalone company. They were bought by Standard Motor Products (the BlueStreak people) a few years ago. Perhaps Walker are making the kits for NAPA who are keeping their packaging and numbering the same for continuity. That'd be nice...I'll ask next time I'm on the phone to Walker (it could also be someone else is using Walker's same numbers).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

So what stores/on line houses carry Walker kits??? I have not seen any advertisements for them anywhere.
Thanks,
Frank

_________________
Scrapple: Because a mind is a terrible thing to waste.
73 Duster - Race Car
66 Dart Wagon - DD
178" FED
82 D150
All Slant powered

OK, there is good news: I rebuilt the carb and the engine now runs MUCH better. It is better than it ever has been, for sure. The idle is good and the "popping" and "chugging" that was coming out of the exhaust is almost completely gone. I still hear a muffled cough occassionally come out of the exhaust. But the engine is running strong.

The bad news: I still have an off-idle hesitation. It is pretty bad. If you slowly accelerate the engine it hits a dead-spot and ... well... dies. There is no hesitation running cold. WHen the engine warms up and the idle steps all the way down off the fast idle, then there is a hesitation.

I remembered reading about carb problems on other threads here before where one of the steps was to cup my hand over the carb opening to see if it runs smoother. When I cup my hand over the mouth of the carb and accelerate, the off-idle hesitation goes away - completely. I'm not sure what that means, but I thought it would help diagnose the problem.

Also, I did some GOOGLE research last night and I came across this web site - http://www.mydailydriver.com/articles/r ... -1-barrell

He talks about re-building his 1920 Holley and running into a problem of a missing spring. My carb was missing the same spring. I just figured it wasn't supposed to be there. In summary, this other guy seems to have the same problem and solution. Here is some of what he says:

After comparing the pieces we had to the ones in the schematic, a problem quickly became apparent. My carb was missing a spring. The spring is the "pump diaphragm spring", better known as the accelerator pump spring.

Unfortunately the kit did not contain a replacement. So we made do with what we had... It started right up and settled into a decent idle. After it had warmed up a bit, we took it for a short drive around the block. It ran much better, but the off-idle hesitation was still there and performance was still poor. We attributed the remaining problem to the missing spring. ... I mulled over the next step, finding a spring.

On my lunch hour a few days later I visited a local carb shop. The man agreed the carb needed to have the spring and sold me one for $5 ... that night I installed the spring and took it for a test drive. Yeehaw! What a difference having an accelerator pump spring makes!

Some obvious questions arise:

- Do I need this spring?
- Why is it missing in the first place. It was not there and no replacement came with the rebuild kit.
- Does someone have this spring to sell it to me so I can install it and see if it makes a difference?

Sorry for the long post. Any help is appreciated. Thanks for reading.

~Angel

Yep, that missing spring is causing your hesitation. Without it, the accelerator pump won't work. Who knows why it's missing? Somebody failed to put it back after opening up the carburetor. What matters is that you need one. An accelerator pump spring from a '64 or later Holley 1920 carburetor will work; I typically grab these springs at each end and stretch them slightly before installation. Put a post in "Parts Wanted" and somebody ought to be able to come up with a spring for you. You will, however, want to buy another carburetor kit and renew the gaskets you'll be removing (bowl gasket, combination metering block gasket and accelerator pump diaphragm).

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一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

http://www.carb-x.com/contact.html
Carburetor Exchange has kits and the only number I had was 6-1695 and they found one for me. They also could swap out a carb for $110. not bad for a 1963 carter ball & ball single barrel. at least for what I found.
another place I found in my searching was http://carbspec.com/index.htm
the carburetor specialists. alittle more $ but they have everything.
good luck

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Thanks again for the quick replies, the information and the links.

Awesome.

I'll get it all together over the next week. Hopefully my next post will be a good report of everything working great.