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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:42 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 5:26 am
Posts: 68
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I super sixed my slant with a BBD and used the electric choke kit recommended elswhere in this forum. The choke works good from a cold start, but I'm wondering if it's not working when the engine is warm. Shouldn't the choke close briefly to start the engine when the engine is warm, but not hot, just to get the gas in the carb?

My problem happens after the engine has reached normal operating temp and has been shut off for maybe 15 minutes. I can't get it to start without spinning the starter for about 10-15 seconds. If the engine is hot and I shut if off for maybe 3 minutes it'll fire right up before the flywheel has a chance to do one revolution.

Anyone have an idea what's going on here? Choke problem...vapor lock???


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 10:55 am 
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Supercharged
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Location: Black Diamond, WA
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No, the choke shouldn't close that soon after you shut it off. Dan will point you to the link for the fuel line mod at the begining of this page. I have done it and have found it helps along with the addition of a heat deflector. It helps to keep the intake from vapor locking.

You may want to adjust the electric choke so it doesn't engage that soon.

Check the link in red below my name for a few pictures of the mod. Since we have ethanol in our gas I also used fuel injection hose which helps keep the carb cleaner. Normal fuel hose melts over time.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 11:04 am 
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Ted's right, the choke should not close on a hot engine. Probably a question of starting technique. With the engine warm, push the accelerator about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way down and hold it there (do not pump) while cranking. Also do the Fuel line mod, and you will likely want to add a heat shield under the carburetor.

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 12:28 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Thanks for the quick replies. I've actually done the fuel line mod minus the injector hose. Didn't feel like paying for it at the time... will change that tho.

My start technique probably is the half the problem. I've been giving the pedal a tap about half way down then letting up.

Where would the heat shield go for the carb? I've got a properly working heat riser. I thought that was enough to keep the carb at the right temp.?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 03, 2009 1:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
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Location: North America
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Quote:
My start technique probably is the half the problem. I've been giving the pedal a tap about half way down then letting up.
Yup, that'll greatly increase cranking time on a hot engine. Try it the way I suggested and see if that helps. And remember, the correct cold-start procedure is to kick the accelerator to the floor and then release it, then crank.
Quote:
Where would the heat shield go for the carb? I've got a properly working heat riser. I thought that was enough to keep the carb at the right temp.?
Nope, the heat riser warms the intake manifold for proper fuel vapourisation, but cannot keep the carb cool in heat soak conditions. The shield goes between the carburetor and the carb base gasket. Get Ted to show you the small one he made (which is very much like the one used by the factory on certain Australian installations), or you can make a larger one if you like.

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2009 7:34 am 
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3 Deuce Weber
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Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 5:26 am
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This morning I drove the truck for about a 30 minutes at 55-60mph, ran a 5k road race, chatted a while afterwards then got back in the truck. I'd say it sat for a good hour. Engine definitely still warm, in that temp range where I usually hold my breath when starting. So i held the petal 1/4 way down and turned the key....kaboom it blew up! kidding... it started like a champ!

Thanks for the tip. Hopefully thats all it was.

I looked at Ted's web page. Thats a sweet looking engine. I'll send him an email for more detail on that shield.

thanks again!


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