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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:07 am 
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Turbo Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2008 10:20 am
Posts: 751
Location: St. Louis Park, MN
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I think the Cox Brothers used to have this problem also. I believe A&A produced some kind of enhanced pump drive for them, maybe it is still available. Maybe the higher line pressures in modified transmissions cause failures the same way high volume oil pumps do. If that was true you would think you would hear more about it. I suspect that interference during installation might be the problem.

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 10:33 am 
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Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2002 7:27 pm
Posts: 14117
Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
Car Model: 68 Valiant
I believe you can use the pump from an A-500 and and have a converter built with the proper snout. I know the 727 guys have used a 518 pump because the lugs are different. Maybe a 500 is the same?

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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 10:44 am 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3805
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
Quote:
bring your car to Mason Dixon in May


will do, just not this year,, good luck with the car,, the effort you are putting in will certainly pay dividends to you.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 2:14 pm 
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SSRN National Champion
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Joined: Thu Jun 22, 2006 8:50 pm
Posts: 472
Location: Purlear, N.C.
Car Model:
Rick I broke my pump ears at Gateway in Saint Louis on the return road around the year 2000 and with the kind help of a kind gentleman who lives there (wish I could remember his name) replaced it overnight with a used one he had back at home. I have been running the same one since with my fingers crossed. Another thing I will note. Parker, Rose and Harrison had this problem a number of times and someone decided it was easier on the pump to start the engine in neutral which caused less shock on the ears than in park and shocking the pump when pulling it into gear or neutral. I don't know if it has any validity but I have been starting in neutral ever since. It does go from no pressure in park to pumping when you pull it out of park so if it is easier on the ears why not.

Ron

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 2:31 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8283
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Thanks Ron, that is some good info to have. At least I'm not alone! :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 6:38 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8283
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Looks like they have them. But they are pricey

http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/904- ... 12530.aspx

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 5:36 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 8977
Location: IRWIN PA
Car Model:
A and a stuff well worth the $ ..pm veneable.. they usually have a spring special... also save on shipping at the carlisle show.


Greg

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:16 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Sun Feb 08, 2004 4:30 pm
Posts: 370
Location: West Mifflin PA
Car Model: 1967 Dodge Dart 270
Never thought of that ever being a issue. $250 seems well worth it.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 9:21 am 
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Poser
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Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:18 pm
Posts: 3121
Location: Indy
Car Model:
Rick if you want that part let me know. I will be at his shop next week - I can try to get the swap meet discount from last Sat.(ICH) He offers 10% on most items.

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PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 6:24 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:55 pm
Posts: 546
Location: Gloucester, Va
Car Model:
I always carry an extra pump in the trailer. Dis my own pump upgrade and it has worked a long time
I will describe when I am on a computer.
Will


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2017 5:08 am 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8283
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Thanks Will. I'll wait to hear what you did.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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Last edited by Rick Covalt on Sat Jun 03, 2017 11:41 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 6:00 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8283
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
As you may have noticed I have not given any updates for about 2 months. I got to the place where everything I touched went backwards or broke or leaked or....etc. I wasn't enjoying the work on the car so I just took a break for a while.

After I got the engine installed, the pump broke in the transmission that I was going to use, so I pulled it out and re-installed my stock one I had been running. Then after I fired it up the engine had more oil leaks that I had ever seen! That would be funny if I had not spent 3 evenings and meticulously tried to do it right so I would have no leaks. Along the pan rails,behind the oil pump.... and so on.

I did take the car down to Mason Dixon once in early April and the car went 14.40 on the first run down the track. It sounded fine but felt slow. That is because it was slow for what it should have been. I didn't panic, because I thought my secondaries weren't opening because I forgot to hook up the choke ground. Fixed that and went back out and ran a 14.60! Came in and adjusted timing 2 degrees more advance and adjusted the metering rods(I was lean) and went back out and ran a 14.77. Made another carb adustment and proceeded to slow down some more. Thoroughly discouraged I packed up and went home. That is when I stopped working on the car for a while.

I decided I would just run mid 14's with it and eventually when I felt more motivated I would find the problem. I did come home and verified my cam timing using the Romac dampers markings and it was installed at 99 right where I had them put it. I put my old distributor back in it and waited for this past weekend to arrive.

I figured I would pick the brains of the smart & fast ones (Lou, Ron, Greg...) at Mason Dixon and after this weekend I'd start adjusting and figure out why I was not going as fast as I should be. They all gave me good advice and tried to pull me back from hurling myself over the edge! :lol: I went out and ran 14.60 - 14.80 and and just ran it that way until I had a bye in the 2nd round Sunday, when it proceeded to run a 15.40!! Now am really not happy and I called Lou over and told him what it did. He asked me a question or two and I popped the hood and he asked if the throttle was opening the whole way. And of course I thought it was. But then he or Ron said look at the throttle cable flexing. The outer housing of the cable was actually compressing instead of opening the secondaries the whole way! Why would this happen you may ask? Here is what I did.

I needed a new throttle cable. And looking at the stainless 904 kick down cable kit I had on the wall, I got a bright idea. That cable kit has plenty of adjustments, and a threaded fitting to bolt through the firewall, so why not just use that for a throttle cable? No need to buy the "right" thing when you have something that will work just as well. Let's just say I learned the hard way that that cable is not made to be a throttle cable! So Lou, Ron and I tried to reinforce the outer housing with a split piece of fuel line, some clamps and some zip ties. It appeared to be opening up the secondaries the whole way, at least for the moment. That is when we went out for the 3rd round. I pulled up to the line and proceeded to plant a nice -003 red light but the car felt like it really took off. I stayed in it the whole way and it ran a 13.40 @ 97MPH. That time is just about where I thought I was going to be back in April when I first took it out. (13.20-13.40) I was the happiest red-light loser you ever seen! So the car ran 13.40 with a carb that is definitely too rich and my timing several degrees to far advanced. So after I install the new throttle cable I can begin to sneak up on the tune and should drop a few more tenths. I also was only turning 5900-6000 so there is a little bit more there also.

Thanks to everyone for your help, and for everyone for listening. Boy I'm glad that is over!

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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12.70 @ 104.6
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 7:21 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer
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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 4:48 pm
Posts: 5835
Location: Burton BC canada
Car Model:
Well Rick...if a throttle cable was worth 1000 thousands you are the guy to figure it out.

That's the cheapest second you will ever get.

Congrats to everyone...Id love to return to MD again.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 22, 2017 7:38 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Thu May 12, 2005 11:50 pm
Posts: 6291
Location: So California
Car Model: 64 Plymouth Valiant
:lol:

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64 Valiant 225 / 904 / 42:1 manual steering / 9" drum brakes

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 1:51 pm 
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Board Sponsor & SL6 Racer

Joined: Wed Oct 23, 2002 7:57 pm
Posts: 8283
Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
I got my old factory style throttle cable back on and began to do the install on my trunk mounted battery. I ran the rod out through the tail light. You don't need back up lights too much on a race car anyway! I need to finish up the battery mount and then re-jet the carb a little and I should be ready for Wilkesboro.

Rick

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
Image
12.70 @ 104.6
Image


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