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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 5:27 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed May 18, 2016 6:07 am
Posts: 26
Location: Vancouver, Wa
Car Model:
Rookie questions - I have a super 6 set up from a volare i plan on running with dutra dual headers. What do I do with the EGR. The underside of the intake is meant to seal to the exhaust. Do I just fabricate a cover?


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 6:24 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 1:11 am
Posts: 1473
Location: North Georgia
Car Model:
The simplest solution is to flip the EGR around and install a new gasket if necessary. One end of the EGR valve is solid. This will seal it to the manifold and it's as simple as that.

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 Post subject: Egr
PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 7:28 am 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Wed May 18, 2016 6:07 am
Posts: 26
Location: Vancouver, Wa
Car Model:
So the hollowed out underside of the intake just goes to the EGR which I wouldn't be using anyway. So I can just leave it open and snap off the EGR valve. As long as it doesn't somehow flow through the intake runners and creates a vacuum leak I can just ignore it.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 7:53 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
I made an EGR block off plate and a gasket, but they are available online.

Something like this (Someone else's photo):

Image

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"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 8:04 am 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 1:11 am
Posts: 1473
Location: North Georgia
Car Model:
A blockoff plate as shown above is what I eventually used, but for a couple of months I drove around with the EGR flipped around backwards and left the diaphragm alone. I even kept the vacuum line hooked up. The bottom of the manifold can be left open where it mated to the exhaust manifold. I wouldn't snap off the vacuum diaphragm, just flip the EGR around and go with it until you can get a blockoff plate.


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 Post subject: Re: Egr
PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 9:09 am 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13014
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
davidrad wrote:
So the hollowed out underside of the intake just goes to the EGR which I wouldn't be using anyway. So I can just leave it open and snap off the EGR valve. As long as it doesn't somehow flow through the intake runners and creates a vacuum leak I can just ignore it.


This will create both a huge vacuum leak and huge exhaust leak. The spring that holds the plunger shut is in the EGR valve body. If you snap the body off there will be an open hole to th eintake and the pluger will no long be held tightly closed.

Why not just leave it there? Or at least use a blockoff plate? Emissions stuff realy isn't all that bad. In fact, some might argue that emissions reducing equipment is a good thing.


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 Post subject: Re: Egr
PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 12:07 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Joined: Mon May 12, 2008 1:11 am
Posts: 1473
Location: North Georgia
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Reed wrote:
davidrad wrote:
So the hollowed out underside of the intake just goes to the EGR which I wouldn't be using anyway. So I can just leave it open and snap off the EGR valve. As long as it doesn't somehow flow through the intake runners and creates a vacuum leak I can just ignore it.


This will create both a huge vacuum leak and huge exhaust leak. The spring that holds the plunger shut is in the EGR valve body. If you snap the body off there will be an open hole to th eintake and the pluger will no long be held tightly closed.

Why not just leave it there? Or at least use a blockoff plate? Emissions stuff realy isn't all that bad. In fact, some might argue that emissions reducing equipment is a good thing.


If he's running dual Dutra manifolds he can't just leave the EGR there and functional.

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 Post subject: Re: Egr
PostPosted: Wed Jun 21, 2017 1:19 pm 
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Supercharged
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Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 9:20 pm
Posts: 13014
Location: Fircrest, WA
Car Model: 76 D100
coconuteater64 wrote:
Reed wrote:
davidrad wrote:
So the hollowed out underside of the intake just goes to the EGR which I wouldn't be using anyway. So I can just leave it open and snap off the EGR valve. As long as it doesn't somehow flow through the intake runners and creates a vacuum leak I can just ignore it.


This will create both a huge vacuum leak and huge exhaust leak. The spring that holds the plunger shut is in the EGR valve body. If you snap the body off there will be an open hole to th eintake and the pluger will no long be held tightly closed.

Why not just leave it there? Or at least use a blockoff plate? Emissions stuff realy isn't all that bad. In fact, some might argue that emissions reducing equipment is a good thing.


If he's running dual Dutra manifolds he can't just leave the EGR there and functional.


I never said leave it functional, but leaving it there intact in its original position is better than breaking the vacuum pod off. It doesn't hurt anything just sitting there.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 22, 2017 12:39 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3807
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
running dual Dutra's with an EGR capable 2 BBL?

I am doing that on the 83 D150, gave up egr but maintained a hot spot below the carb,,,,, using engine hot water heat.

see these photos from when the 83 D150 was all new and shinny

https://www.flickr.com/photos/13718356@ ... 270396543/

basically
1) drill and tap the egr to intake port passage to accept a pipe plug, loctite the plug in place.
2) fab a simple plate to cover the egr mount, use 3/8 min thickness to allow tapping to accept a fitting. Use the existing egr valve mounting holes.
3) fab a simple plate to cover the bottom intake manifold cavity, triangular shape to pick up the two exhaust manifold to intake bolt holes and the single intake through hole, again 3/8 min to allow tapping to accept a fitting.
4) I used the impregnated paper bulk gasket material from AZ for gasket material
5) Used bulk brake - hydraulic line piping from AZ, shaped and flared easily
6) ran the line carrying hot water to the hot spot from the top of the cylinder head
7) ran the return line to a splice added to the heater return hose.

engine has good drive-abiliy while in the warm up, this particular mod has resulted in zero issues over the past 4 years and 24K miles,


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