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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 3:08 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
Posts: 52
Location: Western Canada
Car Model*: 1970 D100
Hi Gents; new to the forum and thought I'd introduce myself. I have restored lots of british sports cars and Mopar muscle cars over the years; I am just starting in to the restoration of a 1970 dodge d100 truck that has been in our family since new; and you guessed it, it has a slant 6 in it. The truck needs a full resto and I am tearing it apart now; the engine ran nicely, strongly and didn't smoke at all when I last drove it. As per normal the engine is covered in a combo of oil and dirt, so my plan at this point is to throw it onto the engine stand, open it up and see how it looks.
I will of course be doing at a minimum a full engine gasket set, looking at the valves, timing chain, etc. I thought I would run it by you slant 6 gurus just what else I should be looking for or suggest I do while I have the engine on the stand. I don't want to be doing things that I don't have to as my budget will be getting eaten up mostly by the paint and body work, but at the same time I am not going to cut corners.
I know these engines are very strong engines and as I said it was running well before I started.
Any hints or suggestions on what I should refresh/renew on the slant while I have it out would be greatly appreciated!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:10 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
Posts: 52
Location: Western Canada
Car Model*: 1970 D100
Any suggestions or tips? Looking to start my slant 6 education from people who have "been there, done that". Poly 318's and 383 big blocks I know well; looking forward to working on and driving my first slant 6.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:44 pm 
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It depends on how "lo-buck" we are talking...

If you are pulling it apart, measuring the chamber volume and "deck height" or measurement from deck to the top of the piston at TDC.

Most 60's trucks were sub-par on their compression, so getting actual measurements will help get the mill back up to par...

If you have a bigger air compressor and access to a die grinder and a few burrs, you can clean up the casting flash and parting lines in the ports so it flows closer to factory specs...

If money allowed you could increase the compression and get a better cam...

If you have a set of micrometers you can check wear of the journals on the crank both main and rod, that way you can tell if the crank need sto be reground (I have not seen a car crank that was outside spec, but trucks sometimes are lugged or under heavier than normal load so it would be good to check these).

Lowbuck wishlist would be to get it closer to 8.5:1 and the stock cam if not worn badly/high miler...clean up casting flash, if the bores and journals are fine then tickle the bores with a hone, rering, rebearing and regasket... new timing set and checking to make sure the cam is properly degreed....if it's a manual transmission vehicle pay close attention to the thrust bearing run out (tighter end of the specification is better for this tranny, if an automatic that won't be as critical).

Higher buck list may happen if the bores are out of round and you will need to overbore to the next level (.020 most likely), increase compression to 9:1, port the head a bit, make sure the valve seats aren't eroded and have them relapped, pick a cam for some advantage in the lowend torque area (OCG 818, 2106, etc...)

After that, switching to Electronic Ignition and getting a distributor recurve for the vehicle will help as an "adder" for these other upgrades...


I'm sure there are a few other things but that will get you off to a good start....


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:23 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
Posts: 52
Location: Western Canada
Car Model*: 1970 D100
Excellent stuff Duster; just the kind of info I'm looking for!
As couple of more questions based on your suggestions.
Is there a thread showing how to take the casting flash off of the ports? I am assuming like most engines they all have these flaws in the same places.
And also, yes the truck has a manual 4 speed tranny.
What would be the best way to test the thrust bearing end play? Dial indicator?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:24 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
Posts: 52
Location: Western Canada
Car Model*: 1970 D100
I should also add I ran a compression test and had a maximum of 10 psi difference between all 6 cylinders which is encouraging.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 8:57 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
Posts: 52
Location: Western Canada
Car Model*: 1970 D100
So I’m now getting down to tearing my engine apart.
Since it’s just a truck with a manual transmission I am thinking of new rings, bearings, oil pump, timing set, gasket set and a bit of a home port and polish.
Again this engine was running well but is a bit of a high miler.
Does this make sense or should I look at changing the cam and lifters? I’m trying to keep the budget to a minimum as I am doing a full resto on the rest of the truck and money is tight.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 10:28 am 
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If you pull the cam and oil pump and the gears on the pump and cam look good, do not separate them. They need to be kept together if at all possible and re-use the original pump if it checks out. If you need a new pump then put the old gear on the new pump. The cam will be out so there is no reason not to upgrade the cam a little. Oregon Cam grinders will fix you up for less than a $100. Install new lifters with the reground cam. You can get more power and better gas mileage and the truck is a brick so a little more power and mileage is good.
Even if keeping stock size valves the area directly under the valve seats is usually very restricted and a lot of flow can be had with just a little work. Bump the Compression as DI says and install a super six or a small 4 barrel and you will be amazed how well it runs.

My truck has the 819 cam in it and it runs fine even with an automatic and stock convertor, so that is another option.

PS I am having trouble seeing the 2106 cam on the Oregon lists??? :?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 1:37 pm 
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Agree. Get Oregon Cam Grinding to apply their grind № 2106R and you'll be a happy camper camwise. Have hardened exhaust valve seats installed during the head rebuild, because all of today's gasoline is unleaded.

A carefully-chosen 2bbl carb will tend to give better and much less frustrating results than a 4bbl, but there's also a solid case to be made for carefully rebuilding and keeping the stock 1bbl if you were happy with the way the truck ran before and want to keep time-and-money costs for this project under control. Top-notch ignition gives good value for dollar and hour invested; do the HEI upgrade. You might also want to do the Fuel line mod.

Exhaust: 2-1/4" pipe off the manifold, into a Walker № 50051 muffler, original equipment on recent-model Hemi Ram trucks. Run a 2-1/4" headpipe into this muffler, and a 2" tailpipe out of this muffler. Result will be a good-flowing, quiet system and a muffler that lasts for many years.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 13, 2018 5:20 pm 
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Location: Waynesboro, Pa.
Car Model*: 65 Valiant 2Dr Post
Quote:
Does this make sense or should I look at changing the cam and lifters? I’m trying to keep the budget to a minimum as I am doing a full resto on the rest of the truck and money is tight.


Truth is, if money is your main driver in the engine upgrades then leave the stock cam, lifters, 1 barrel intake, carb ...etc. Only you can decide what is important to you and if the truck drove to your satisfaction before. I do know that by spending a little bit more on the engine upgrades that you can add another 20+ horsepower, without harming your driveability or gas mileage. And adding 20 more HP to an engine that has 100 or so is really noticeable. Wish you good luck with the build! I love those trucks! :D

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 8:55 am 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
Posts: 52
Location: Western Canada
Car Model*: 1970 D100
Excellent tips gentlemen; I am very much interested in doing the low level (cost) upgrades to help nudgde the truck towards better fuel economy and power for sure; I am just trying to keep the machining to a minimum which on big blocks I have rebuilt in the past is where I find costs can spiral high very quickly.
As for the cam; having ground at Oregon cams sounds like a good idea, but being that I am in Canada by the time I ship and pay in our pathetic Canadian dollar right now it would double the cost. Is there a new cam out there that is ground to that 2016R spec? It might be the same cost for me get get my local parts supplier to source one of those than to ship and pay for the regrind in US$.
That would also mean new lifters of course, but I imagine they are relatively cheap.
Hopefully the crank doesn't need much work; I will start tearing it down and taking measurements over the next couple of days; I will keep you guys posted on what I find.
Keep the suggestions coming!!! :D


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 10:59 am 
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fireguyfire wrote:
As for the cam; having ground at Oregon cams sounds like a good idea, but being that I am in Canada by the time I ship and pay in our pathetic Canadian dollar right now it would double the cost.


From $75 to $150. Probably not a dealbreaker.

Quote:
Is there a new cam out there that is ground to that 2016R spec?


No, the 2106R grind comes only from Oregon Cam, and you don't want a new cam. New cams are problematic in Slant-6 engines because the oil pump/distributor drive worm is often machined incorrectly, which leads to carnage. Speaking of which: go through and refurbish your oil pump, do not replace with new.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 3:38 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
Posts: 52
Location: Western Canada
Car Model*: 1970 D100
so I am looking real lucky so far; the crank journals look like they were polished yesterday and the bearings have lots of meat on them; the rod caps have numbers stamped on them so maybe this thing was rebuilt but if it was I know it was at least 40 years ago; I will have to check the back of the bearings for over sizing as well as the piston head.
Can anyone explain to me how a regrind on the cam from Oregon cam leads to better fuel economy and more power? Just curious in furthering my education of the leaning tower of power.
I am also thinking of tackling the block cleaning and cam bearing replacement myself as my local machine shops are back logged 4-6 months and don't want to touch small jobs like this.
Has anyone got a tutorial on how to properly clean an engine block for a rebuild at home?


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:16 pm 
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The Oregon 2106R grind is the result of Doug Dutra's highly respectable development work. It opens the valves wider than the stock cam, which aids breathing, and its lobe profiles and event timing give a good, "meaty" torque curve at the engine speeds you're likely to be mostly using. It will improve driveability, response, and economy without introducing new problems or hassles.

Block cleanup: see this thread (pay special attention to the molasses links). And oven cleaner—the regular kind made of lye, not the "fume free"—is your able-bodied friend, but only if you wear adequate personal protective equipment: gloves, face shield, etc, and have plenty of ventilation.

Rocker assembly cleanup: see here.

Speaking of the truck as a whole: see this post.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:38 pm 
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3 Deuce Webber

Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
Posts: 52
Location: Western Canada
Car Model*: 1970 D100
great info Dan; I appreciate it.
I cleaned up a couple of the rod bearings wondering if this engine has ever been touched since new in 1970; the only markings I could find on the back of the bearing was

2-70
t c

I am assuming the 70 means 1970? Because I couldnt find a .010, or .020 etc I am guessing these are the original bearings? If so they are in miraculous condition for 47 years old.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:52 pm 
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2-70 does sound a lot like a date code. What is your engine ID number, stamped on the block deck just outboard of the frontmost cylinder?

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