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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 3:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
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Location: Western Canada
Hi Gents; new to the forum and thought I'd introduce myself. I have restored lots of british sports cars and Mopar muscle cars over the years; I am just starting in to the restoration of a 1970 dodge d100 truck that has been in our family since new; and you guessed it, it has a slant 6 in it. The truck needs a full resto and I am tearing it apart now; the engine ran nicely, strongly and didn't smoke at all when I last drove it. As per normal the engine is covered in a combo of oil and dirt, so my plan at this point is to throw it onto the engine stand, open it up and see how it looks.
I will of course be doing at a minimum a full engine gasket set, looking at the valves, timing chain, etc. I thought I would run it by you slant 6 gurus just what else I should be looking for or suggest I do while I have the engine on the stand. I don't want to be doing things that I don't have to as my budget will be getting eaten up mostly by the paint and body work, but at the same time I am not going to cut corners.
I know these engines are very strong engines and as I said it was running well before I started.
Any hints or suggestions on what I should refresh/renew on the slant while I have it out would be greatly appreciated!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:10 pm 
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Location: Western Canada
Any suggestions or tips? Looking to start my slant 6 education from people who have "been there, done that". Poly 318's and 383 big blocks I know well; looking forward to working on and driving my first slant 6.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 8:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2002 8:27 pm
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Location: Salem, OR
It depends on how "lo-buck" we are talking...

If you are pulling it apart, measuring the chamber volume and "deck height" or measurement from deck to the top of the piston at TDC.

Most 60's trucks were sub-par on their compression, so getting actual measurements will help get the mill back up to par...

If you have a bigger air compressor and access to a die grinder and a few burrs, you can clean up the casting flash and parting lines in the ports so it flows closer to factory specs...

If money allowed you could increase the compression and get a better cam...

If you have a set of micrometers you can check wear of the journals on the crank both main and rod, that way you can tell if the crank need sto be reground (I have not seen a car crank that was outside spec, but trucks sometimes are lugged or under heavier than normal load so it would be good to check these).

Lowbuck wishlist would be to get it closer to 8.5:1 and the stock cam if not worn badly/high miler...clean up casting flash, if the bores and journals are fine then tickle the bores with a hone, rering, rebearing and regasket... new timing set and checking to make sure the cam is properly degreed....if it's a manual transmission vehicle pay close attention to the thrust bearing run out (tighter end of the specification is better for this tranny, if an automatic that won't be as critical).

Higher buck list may happen if the bores are out of round and you will need to overbore to the next level (.020 most likely), increase compression to 9:1, port the head a bit, make sure the valve seats aren't eroded and have them relapped, pick a cam for some advantage in the lowend torque area (OCG 818, 2106, etc...)

After that, switching to Electronic Ignition and getting a distributor recurve for the vehicle will help as an "adder" for these other upgrades...


I'm sure there are a few other things but that will get you off to a good start....


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 17, 2017 9:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jul 15, 2017 11:52 am
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Location: Western Canada
Excellent stuff Duster; just the kind of info I'm looking for!
As couple of more questions based on your suggestions.
Is there a thread showing how to take the casting flash off of the ports? I am assuming like most engines they all have these flaws in the same places.
And also, yes the truck has a manual 4 speed tranny.
What would be the best way to test the thrust bearing end play? Dial indicator?


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 21, 2017 12:24 pm 
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Location: Western Canada
I should also add I ran a compression test and had a maximum of 10 psi difference between all 6 cylinders which is encouraging.


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