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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 4:00 pm 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:56 pm
Posts: 374
Location: Pauls Valley, OK
Car Model: 1975 Dodge D100
Good evening everbody. I’ve begun my search looking for an engine to rebuild, increasing horesepower while remaining streetable. My goal isn’t to build a racecar, just something for a fun, occasional driver with plenty of pep for the street. Im working with a nearby yard where the owner claims to have “five or six” slant-powered vehicles including a wood chipper or some other piece of equipment (he cant remember) I am still trying to get our schedules aligned so I can get by there when he’s on site and operating.
I have never purchased a not-recently-ran engine from a salvage yard and would like some advice on how to evaluate the engines in hopes of selecting the best rebuild candidate.
Thanks!

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1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel 2 bbl Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 6:30 pm 
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EFI Slant 6

Joined: Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:19 am
Posts: 470
Location: SC
Car Model: 63 Dart 81 D150
First and foremost make sure it turns, at least 2 turns if using a wrench. Take a spare known good and charged battery with you, try to hear anything in a car "spin over". Go, look, take pictures, post back here before you buy if possible.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 6:39 pm 
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Supercharged

Joined: Wed Sep 17, 2008 6:48 pm
Posts: 3805
Location: Indianapolis
Car Model:
if you have a choice of engines

consider:
if you are wanting a steel crank or a cast crank motor,
for either, if you are putting the motor in front of a manual tranny
if available get the motor that was in front of a manual tranny as
not all slant six cranks are drilled / honed for the tranny pilot shaft,
there are work arounds, but this is the cleanest way
if steel crank, and will be in front of an automatic, decide if you want a large or small register crank pocket.
there are work arounds for that also, but it is nice to get what fits together, if you have choices.

from there, look closely at the chosen motor for holes/cracks in the crankcase,,
pull the dipstick, does the pan have oil in it, look at the oil filter, distributor cap,
does the engine look like it was cared for.

was the engine totally exposed to the weather, carb open, sparkplugs out
manifolds off, where rain and weather could get into the cylinders, if so I would pass,
if the engine was somewhat protected, it maybe ok

from there I would find out the return policy,, the motors I brought home, 1st thing I do
is pull the pan and the center main cap, check crank thrust faces and pull the #5 rod cap look for a spun bearing..
From what I have heard, when slants have a rod bearing issue, it normally starts at #5.
Pull the spark plugs and flush penetrating oil into the cylinders , get a bolt into the center crank damper and with a long
breaker turn the engine over,, If it spins, the crank does not have wiped thrust faces, #5 rod is good,
chances are its good.

if the engine is stuck, the crank thrust faces are wiped or a rod journal is gone, the motor goes back.

also keep an eye out for super six carbs, intakes, electronic distributors,,A body manual steering boxes are a chore to pull,
but they sell,, actually if any of the cars are A bodies and they are some what intact, put up photos, folks are always looking for parts,,

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Doo Ron Ron and the Duke of Earl are friends of mine.....
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 05, 2017 5:58 am 
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EFI Slant 6
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Joined: Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:56 pm
Posts: 374
Location: Pauls Valley, OK
Car Model: 1975 Dodge D100
That’s all good stuff. Thank you both.
I’ll definitely report any good findings here. Im glad to help locate some needed parts.

_________________
1975 Dodge D100 225 c.i., HEI, Parallel 2 bbl Motorcraft 2150, 904 auto, 9.25" 3.55:1
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