No they are slightly different... (like I said almost everything...)... If he's got a tin knocker handy, they could get the F-body hump to work in the A...



Light car with that gear is great for flat highway cruise and mileage... my first feather duster build upgrade was 9.2:1 compression Comp 252, stock super six and BBD, upgrade to 3.55 from 2.94 did not change the mileage... but it sure made getting off the line and passing traffic a lot easier.... eventually I did a few more upgrades before moving up to 4.56's for racing purposes... when I get my last build put together it will probably be 3.91's for best all around with that transmission... unless I can find a Cobra T-5 box locally with the 2.6 first gear and OD 5th for a reasonable price....

Yeah I noticed a few minutes ago in trying to calm down from $#!+ news, couldn't spin the tires once, even trying to hold the brake before go.

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Curious about the OD version in general--is it possible to swap out the gears in the OD version so it's not such a wide ratio? i.e. make it in the 2.66 to 2.45 range like the non-OD A-833 or the A904. Or would that require too much modification to be worth it?

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No, this isn't a T-5.... to make that happen you will be machining some major gear components to
make happen...

That's what I thought, but wanted to be sure.

Anyway, just for fun, here is a small table I made of possible gearing choices, compared to current one.

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How difficult is the tunnel mod for this, anyway? Seems we have to cut out a piece and replace? Does anything else require such a permanent modding?

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Remove carpet, remove any under carpet wiring in the way (may need to remove the nuts on the front seat, lift and move back... you already removed the original transmission, right?)

Lay hump from donor vehicle onto floor pan, use magic marker to mark inside the hump through the shift handle hole...
Remove hump...

Following the line use plasma cutter and trace the hole until you get to the flat of the floor pan on the drivers side....

Or

Drill a couple of strategic holes and use sawzall with bi-metal blade at a shallow angle until you get to the flat of the drivers side floor pan...

With gloved hands peel the current metal flap back and look for the reinforcing cross member... there are typically a couple of spot welds that tack the crossmember to the floor pan, you may need to carefully grind or use a cold chisel to separate the pan from the member.... do not nick the crossmember unless you have a welder handy, wedge something between the member and pan and cut the rest of the pan out along the magic marker line....

Installation of hump....

Correct and professional way:

Use grinder with wire wheel to remove paint off each side of the hump and pan... place hump, break out wire feed welder and tack weld in .... clean welds, paint, once paint is dry coat welded seam with body seam sealer (i.e. mastic). Replace the front half of the carpet with the proper color kit that is for a floor shift 3-4 speed hump.


The po-boy hack job version for a temp tranny install or just plain cheap and have no welder:

Run a bead of Caulk along the edge of the hump where the hump egde will meet the pan and tunnel...
Using a cordless drill and proper driver, screw down with #8 self tapping sheet metal screws every 2-3" on center.
Caulk the joint, rattle can as needed, replace carpet and cut a small hole in it for the shift handle to go through.

I see, thanks. We've got most or all of these things at work...and that's the worst of it as far as things that will not bolt-in?

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The only other item will be the frame and fender reinforcing plate for the ballstud in the drivers side fenderwell... the plate won't be there but you will find the hole for the ballstud...

If not looking for original... just grab a piece of 1/8" or 12 ga mild (about 2"x3-4")... drill a hole to match the ballstud, and over enough to weld the other end to the frame... it's best to get your trans and bell
in place mount the Z-bar then locate the ballstud so the Z-bar is parallel to the fire wall...

So an extra support for the clutch linkage, makes sense.

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One of these?

https://dantesparts.com/shop/mopar-cata ... et-a-body/

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1976 Feather Duster /6 4sp
1984 W100 318 727 np241
1972 'Cuda 340 4sp
1985 D250 360 46RH

No, that would only be for an original 1967-1972 install and would not allow the 1973-1976 Z-bar to install correctly... if he grabs the late stuff it uses the bolt through plate like on your Feather Duster. The hole will be in the sheet metal but no reinforcement, on the 67-72 cars.

So if I ended up with a 67-72 trans, how would that work?

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Same thing, just depends on if you got a 1967-1972 Z-bar then it would need the ballstud listed above if not with your parts cache. You will have to figure out how to mount it to the frame.

Z-bars can't get confusing year to year, body to body and even engine to engine. Example: a small block z-bar may not operate a slant clutch properly. I know this is true on e-bodies not sure about a-bodies.

That package deal you found is a good deal. It would solve a lot of other problem as well. Mopar interchangeability can get confusing quickly.

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1976 Feather Duster /6 4sp
1984 W100 318 727 np241
1972 'Cuda 340 4sp
1985 D250 360 46RH