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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 12:34 pm 
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Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
My problem with the stall converters is that I can't find one that has the starter gear mounted to it. There's only one that I've seen that does. Is there a way of buying the gear separately and bolting it to the converter?


All "stall" converters for mopar transmissions have the ring gear on them. I have no idea what you are looking at.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 12:36 pm 
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Quote:
My problem with the stall converters is that I can't find one that has the starter gear mounted to it


904 convertors have the ring gear welded to the convertor. Do a quick search on E bay and there are tons of them there. Not recommending those, just saying they are there and no need to bolt anything on. Others can make recommendations on brands they like. I have a new "Edge" convertor that I won from the Clay City race, that will be going in my race car over the winter. Andre was very good to work with also.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 12:46 pm 
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Edgeracing in CA or Midwest Converters in IL are good sources for Slant 6 converters. A converter with 2800 stall or so will act almost like a stocker at part throttle, until you get on it, then it will let the motor rev up and use the midrange power. You sacrifice around 1 MPG using a stall converter like that relative to stock.

Lou

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 2:22 pm 
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Turbo EFI
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Location: North Georgia
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Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
Dart270 wrote:
Thanks for posting that link to the Hughes cams. I see they have several grinds. That one is not aggressive. You can use it with a stock or mild stall converter, but I would not expect to get more than 200 HP, assuming you have a decently ported head. 200 HP in a car like yours will net something like mid 15s in the 1/4 mile, which is a good streetable number for these engines and it feels zippy on the street. Focus on good head porting and larger valves if you want to make power. If you can afford a 2600-3000 RPM stall converter, then get the 220/224 Hughes cam (if you want to stay with Hughes). I do not know if anyone has tried these who is a serious Slant enthusiast.

Lou


My problem with the stall converters is that I can't find one that has the starter gear mounted to it. There's only one that I've seen that does. Is there a way of buying the gear separately and bolting it to the converter?

Edit: The head is getting ported and I'm going to try for 10.5:1 compression when everything is done, but like I said, I can't measure until it's back from the machine shop and assembled. It's going to have the offenhauser intake off of Summit Racing (what would be a good 4bbl for this engine?) and the small tubular headers off of Aussiespeed.


If you look around this site you will find pretty much every permutation of slant six build that has ever been tried and proven effective. Anything short of a burnt sacrifice will increase power over stock, but to make a happy, streetable engine, exotic parts are not necessary. It's surprising how well a stock super six can be made to run with just a curved distributor and headers, and a reground cam. Plus the budget will not suffer at all.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 02, 2018 9:52 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:52 pm
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Car Model: 1975 Plymouth Duster
Charrlie_S wrote:
Plymouth_Ruster wrote:
Alright, I'm trying to do a budget rebuild of my Duster's slant 6 and I'm trying to do it for a reasonable amount of money.


Quote:
It's going to have the offenhauser intake off of Summit Racing (what would be a good 4bbl for this engine?) and the small tubular headers off of Aussiespeed.


I thought this was going to be a "Budget" build. You are way out of that realm. Just on intake, carb, and headers, you are close to $1500


Oh, I know. I've kinda given up on the "budget" thing because with the money I'd be spending I may as well go all the way with it. I was planning on doing a V8 swap eventually but honestly I really don't care at this point, it's going to take the better part of a year for me to complete the engine anyway.

Edit: Does anyone know what the difference between the base model and "custom" trim level is? I can't seem to find any.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 4:24 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:52 pm
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Car Model: 1975 Plymouth Duster
Alright, so I found this torque converter. It's non-lockup, does that matter?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fti-src30826


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 5:12 pm 
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Yes, a lock up convertor will not work in a non lock up transmission and Vice Versa

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2018 6:19 pm 
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3 Deuce Weber

Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2018 10:52 pm
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Car Model: 1975 Plymouth Duster
Rick Covalt wrote:
Yes, a lock up convertor will not work in a non lock up transmission and Vice Versa


All right, mine is a 1975 and it looks like the lock-up 904s started in 1978, so that converter should work fine.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2018 3:23 am 
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That convertor at $630 is getting close to the price of the Pro Race Edge convertor I just got ( $725). That has all the best stuff in it and much more than you will need for a street car. They have a street convertor for $345 that they will make to the stall you want. Call them and talk to someone there and tell them what your plans are and they can save you some money.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!
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12.70 @ 104.6
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