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 Post subject: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Tue Apr 09, 2019 9:42 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 02, 2002 7:52 pm
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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I got an M90 from a 3800 V6. I'd like to use it
on a D150 with EFI. I don't know where to start.
I have Dutra Duals. How do I config the kickdown
linkage for a 904 ? Anyone done this on a 225?
I might use a 4 speed. The basic EFI setup is my
main concern.


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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 1:51 pm 
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Location: Salem, Oregon
Car Model*: 58 Plymouth Plaza 2dr, 63 Valiant Signet 200 2dr
Tim Keith wrote:
I got an M90 from a 3800 V6. I'd like to use it
on a D150 with EFI. I don't know where to start.


Seems fair! Are you sure of the condition of the unit? Has it been rebuilt, or just pulled from a wrecking yard car?

Tim Keith wrote:
I have Dutra Duals.


Suhweet!

Tim Keith wrote:
How do I config the kickdown linkage for a 904 ?


My first guess would be a Lokar cable. This would allow likely the easiest adaptation.

Tim Keith wrote:
Anyone done this on a 225?


Can't say I've seen one, also can't say it hasn't been done.

Tim Keith wrote:
I might use a 4 speed.


This will have little effect on the induction system, but could possible simplify the truck itself. I wouldn't put this on the list just for sake of a supercharger install.

Tim Keith wrote:
The basic EFI setup is my
main concern.


A multiport injector install on the intake manifold would be optimal. M90s don't tend to like having fuel flow through them due to the teflon coating on the rotors. Sure, it may work for a while, but as the teflon wears off you will lose boost pressure.

EFI with a boost referenced power adder system isn't terribly difficult to build if you have an idea of what you are doing and what you wish to accomplish. There are lots of folks here who run various injection systems and have for years. I'm sure they'll pitch in their recommendations.

~THOR~

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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 9:48 pm 
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Location: Everett, WA
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Yes, one of these years it may actually run. There are also several setups on YouTube.


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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Wed Apr 10, 2019 11:34 pm 
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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There are some local shops that can tune megasquirt. I have never dabbled in EFI and would need that kind of help. I prefer to have a matching belt pulley set made rather than use a v-belt. I'm not interested in maximum power, extra torque is the goal, daily driver reliability with stock small block torque.

Tim


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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 2:27 am 
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If you shoot for 4-6 psi, then you can likely get away w/o timing control. MS-I is cheap and has been working well on my turbo car. You will want to spend some $$ on a port EFI manifold. What is your budget, once you get done with mounting the M90 and fabbing belts to get it turning?

Lou

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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 11:41 am 
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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The short bed '86 truck doesn't have a motor in it yet. I have a sand cast aluminum 1 barrel manifold that I'd like to modify for EFI and the blower mount. I don't have a set budget, but I don't have any debt either. this truck had a 360 in it before I bought it. I want more oomph for a daily driver that can haul occasionally. I paid $100 for the M90 and it seems to be in good shape. I see the Eatons almost everyday on the Facebook Marketplace for a similar asking price, lots of cool stuff listed on FB. I want more torque, as if this truck had a stock small block V8. I originally got the truck because the interior is very clean and the bed is pristine for its age, like it was never used. Its a $600 truck so far. I've got a couple very good stock build 225s that should be fine for low boost. I have some 833s but no 904s in my stash.

Tim


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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Thu Apr 11, 2019 4:05 pm 
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Protecting the ECU will be a priority - not spending a fortune on fragile proprietary electronics. I recently had a battery cable lose connection while the motor was running in a Dakota and the alternator fed back through the ECU without filtering through the battery. The ECU blew as is common in this scenario. I'm pretty sure the Dakota ECU could be repaired by myself if I had documentation. Hope that is the case with the MS.

Tim


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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 10:52 am 
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I've got homework to do. I thought the requirement would be similar to a 1987 Buick turbo 3.8 or 1990s 3800, older Ford superchargers etc, and the basics were well sorted out.


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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 7:04 pm 
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Personally, I would spring for a Clifford with injector bosses on it rather than using a 1bbl manifold.

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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Fri Apr 12, 2019 7:34 pm 
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Location: San Antonio, Texas
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I have a Clifford manifold with a 4 barrel plate. I figure the mount for the supercharger has to be cut out anyway, maybe even welded. I'd like a manifold that hangs low like the long ram on a 1960 300F - for hood clearance. The M90 can function at any angle, so I've read. With Dutra Duals and EFI I won't need the "hot spot" for a carb, the i/m could be low, if such thing existed. I guess with EFI there is plenty of hood clearance anyway.

Tim


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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 1:46 pm 
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An old negro(slave) spiritual has a line : "Everybody talking about heaven a'int going there". Just because I have this in my head, its only a dream unless I get with it now.

Should I just get the blower mounted mechanically and working with a carb?. If I got that step done then the EFI would still be a big hurdle, but I'd know this physically could work. I have a lathe, maybe I can make a pulley that matches the pulley on the M90, but I can probably get a pulley from Master-Carr. I agree with Dennis that the manifold with the Clifford is better. The M90 opening is even wider than the Clifford. There needs to be a box welded to the manifold. I can look at an Aussie speed photo.


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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 2:48 pm 
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Location: Park Forest, Illinoisy
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I have an M-90 project for my "spare" time. I am planning on getting a piece of aluminum from McMaster and making an adapter plate. That is how I have seen it done before. There used to be a really good pictorial thread on here about the one the guy did on a truck. It may have gotten lost in a board crash.

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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Sun Apr 14, 2019 3:46 pm 
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Location: Blacksburg, VA
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I like the adapter plate/box idea. I also think it would be good to get it running with a carb first and build up from there. I do these projects in stages, or often they never would get done. When I did the turbo on the 68 Dart, I did port EFI first and drove it for 8-9 years before doing the turbo. At that point, the turbo tuning was a snap as I knew exactly how to modify/assemble/run the EFI. I know that is long, but I play the long game usually...

In this case, getting started by running with a carb and good ign control would be a good option, and fairly low boost, then you could add port EFI later. Methanol/water injection might be a good friend too...

Lou

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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Sun Apr 21, 2019 9:04 pm 
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He opened this 1 barrel manifold. This would work with the M90 without the 2 barrel plate.
I've got a couple of these aluminum 1 barrel manifolds.

slant six turbo mods https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ez6Ith03XzI


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 Post subject: Re: Eaton M90
PostPosted: Tue Apr 23, 2019 9:29 pm 
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Could we fabricate an equal length blower manifold using steel square tubing with a pressed in rectangular 22 gauge sleeve that has the proper cross section ? There is no steel tubing of the proper size for the intake runners, but an alloy sheet metal sleeve might be fitted inside welded square steel tubing. The 22 ga sleeve could be tig welded to the plenum - then all six runners slide into the square steel tubes which are already welded to the steel intake flange. The inside of the steel intake flanges could be stepped so that alloy sleeve would align with the ports. Some JB Weld or similar cement might be used where the sleeve meets the stepped edge inside the flange.

I'm trying to think of a cheaper way to fabricate a sturdy equal length intake manifold mostly from MIG welded steel. In this scheme the alloy plenum would screw to the six runners - with gasket material used to prevent leaks.

There would be a small air gap between the steel tubing and the alloy sleeve which would keep the inlet air a little cooler. I don't know how to seal the injector bungs to the alloy sleeve, or whether it would be necessary to do so - the net air pressure can't escape anywhere but the intake ports. I suppose since you can access the bottom of the injector bung from the inside of the intake runner, you might press a lip around the bottom of the bung and tig weld, or press on a bushing that traps an o-ring from the bottom of the injector bung - a thin washer and c-clip trap an o-ring seal in place from the bottom.

Inexpensive 1/2-inch steel intake flanges are listed on Ebay. The rectangular alloy sleeve might be formed by use of a wood die and a hydraulic press - its not structural so it can be relatively thin material. The seam of the alloy sleeve should be tig welded. And, the outer steel tubing would look awesome when chromed.


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