Remove the rear window regulators, and fix the windows in the up position. This will drop 8-10 lbs. Cut the dust shield off the front shocks (factory style shock) will drop a pound per shock.
Jus sayin......

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Already done!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Dang, can't git nuttin on you.
Kudos.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

Put the new M/C in and plumbed it up. Just bled the brakes tonight and the front wheels seem to be locked up? Any great idea what I may have done wrong??

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Make sure the push rod, has a small amount of free play to the MC piston. Check by loosening up the MC mounting bolts about 1/2 inch, and see if the brakes release.
PS: You did put a rubber gromet on the pushrod, right?

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

Right MC? It might be bad.

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Hyper_pak

Yes
.
Will check! thanks


No not for a 65 Valiant!!
I can't remember what I looked it up for. It was what someone on here recommended to use.

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I always make (beware safety!) or buy an adjustable pushrod so I can set freeplay and pedal height.

Lou

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Home of Slant6-powered fun machines

New adjustable push rod, when bolted directly to the pedal was too thick just ahead of the heim joint. When you depressed the pedal the side of the heim joint would hit the pedal arm and bind. This would then hold the pedal down a little and not release the brakes. Put a couple washers between the heim joint and the pedal and the problem was solved.

Thanks for the help.

As a side note this rod is only listed for 66 and up from Dr. Diff

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I'm thinking that might be a misprint. As far as I know 63-66 are the same MC and pedal assy. 67 was the change year.

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Charrlie_S
65 Valiant 100 2dr post 170 turbo
66 Valiant Signet 225 nitrous
64 Valiant Signet
64 Valiant 4dr 170

I think you are right Charlie.

I just weighed a 65 hood that I had here in the garage.It weighed 55#. The lift off fiberglass one is 13#.That would be 42 pounds off the nose of the car! That would have to help some. But at $400 plus shipping, it will probably wait for a while. But it got me to thinking. How much weight do you think I could take out from under the metal hood and still keep it in one piece. I was looking at it and it looks like you could eliminate a lot of the bracing and loose 10-15 pounds, maybe more. I'd remove my springs but still leave enough metal around the mounts to use them as a rear pivot. Remove the hood latch and a lot of the metal up front around the latch and install pins.( Since I apparently don't know how to latch it anyway!) Just thinking out load. A blacked out hood wouldn't look terrible in my mind?

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

Be careful about how much bracing you cut, especially if you leave the stock springs on. It will fold in half like a suitcase.

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Official Cookie and Mater Tormentor.

I once did a hood for a 70 Dart Swinger. I took the bracing off the stock factory hood (weighed in at 60 lbs) and then used the metal bracing as a mold for a fiberglass replacement. I cut down some Styrofoam blocks to fit inside the fiberglass brace and then just glassed the entire thing to the bottom of the steel hood skin. I took out the hood springs and just used an aluminum pole to hold the hood up. I took all the hood latch stuff out as well and used hood pins to hold the front of the hood down. I took 25 pounds off the stock hood and never had any issues with it at the track. It never bowed or anything. Granted, it was a lot of work for a 25 lb savings, but it was pretty inexpensive to do. That was a low buck big block bracket car. I also took the front bumper off and used it as a 'mold' to make my own fiberglass bumper. That turned out pretty nice and saved some weight as well, but I don't recall the weight difference. All this was back in the eighties, when I lots of time and little money.

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-MattMan
LEANED & MEAN

No, I would take all the springs off and just have a hinge at the back to hold it in place. I'd use a hood prop to hold it open.
Thanks!!

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2 Mopars come with Spark plug tubes. One is a world class, racing machine. The other is a 426 CI. boat anchor!

12.70 @ 104.6

I bet the stock hood without the bracing with the hinges etc will be pretty flimsy.

Just work a few more hours at RC Engines then you'll have that $400 you need for the 'glass hood.

Props are nice unitl you are working on your car on a windy day then the wind takes your hood and smashes it into your windscreen. unless you get a prop that holds onto the hood in both +x and -X

Pin hoods can get set on the ground which make them less prone to wind but more prone to getting stepped on.

Greg

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http://www.youtube.com/hyperpack