6/17/20:

Over the weekend, Lou cam up from Blacksburg VA and we did some Auto X togther at an airstrip about 5 miles from muy house.

We also got the Rear Disc Kit installed, Bled sorted, as well as the 3.91 with a Eaton Trutrac Center section installed in the 8 3/4 Rear Axle.

Everything went smoothly, however now the 3.91's don't necessarily play well with the stock wheezy 1 bbl, stock head, stock exhaust etc.

Bye Bye Drums... You may get used again on a Big bolt pattern swap or something, but to the attic you go!


11.7" Rear Discs in place:






Lou was on hand to help with the heavy lifting and install.. Thanks a a bunch.



Looking a but' tangy... Mustang that is.




Greg

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Thanks for the great time, Greg. Fun driving around those PA roads in our crisp A-bodies! Glad to be of help. Now let's get that hotter engine in there...

Lou

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Fun!!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

6/24/20:

I was Working on Adding some slowness.

Going from 10.87 Single Piston MoPar Discs and Calipers to 13" Baer 6 Piston Calipers.














Gotta Get the Other side installed and Then Hoses Connected and then Bled.

Greg

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Nice work, Greg. Really good brakes are one of the best upgrades you can do to these old cars.

Lou

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Whence cometh the plain center caps?
In two different varieties, if my eyes deceiveth not.
I too have a set of 'tangy wheels...

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O==\=/==O

"A mechanic is Somebody."
- Jim Preston

Hi Joe, I have the plain Center caps... In that Mock up shot I was unsure if they would fit with the Baer Hub cover. They do.. I just need to put them in the wheel before Installing the wheel on the car.

I was able to Remove a 1/8" of wheel spacer with these Hubs and Rotor Hats.. That's a good thing 'cause I was getting to the end of those 3" ARP Studs.

Drove it home from the Garage and Now will be seasoning rotors and Bedding Pads.


Greg

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That shifter and hump look fabulous! It would take an eagle eye to discover it's not a factory job.

The low clutch pedal, though... if you haven't figured it out yet, that's just an adjustment issue. The pedal is coming up almost far enough to flip the overcenter spring under the dash to its rest position, but not quite. I see in a different pic that you had the foresight to keep the threaded rod between the z-bar and clutch fork -- lengthen it a couple of turns, then try the pedal again. Keep lengthening until suddenly you have a clutch pedal that comes up all the way, and then for good measure give it one more tweak... partly to give yourself extra to handle clutch wear so you don't have to keep adjusting it regularly, and partly so that it comes up more smoothly without hearing the overcenter spring bang the pedal the last tiny bit (sproing!).

Just one opinion, but I love the fact that you're keeping the rubber pedal pattern of the 63-64-65-66 instead of swapping in a newer suspended gas pedal. Yay! If you end up wanting a cable version of that gas pedal, it was in the V8 or the factory-AC.

- Erik

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Lots of early Valiants and Barracudas have crossed my path.
Also a handful of other toys for variety now and then.

6/28/20:

Thanks for the Kind words Erik, I will eventually go to a cable Gas Pedal, I have the Cable Mech out of a Mid 70's D Series Truck, So When I go to the four barrel or other Carb, That will work.
Hot Rodders Have a hard time throwing away parts..... right?



I got a bunch of small things done over the weekend;
In no particular order..
- Went through the distributor.. Found that It was a "Re manufactured" unit... the Advance Cans seem to be busted in the remaned units. It was in this one. The Advance springs were trash too. The Slots in the Remaned unit did have the 0.400" slots so it limits the centrifugal advance to about 20°.

- I recurved the Dist with Charles' Spring Kit, and Found a working Advance Can on one of my distributors in the parts pile. It was an early 60's unit and it had the DpCiD stamped on the Diecast. Amazing how a ~60 Part still works and the "new" Overseas garbage failed almost instantly.
- Also Installed a pertronix Ignitor II and Corresponding Coil.
- Did the Fuel Line Mod
- Installed a Tach with Sfift Lite. (setting the shift lite at 4200 RPM is Hilarious).
- Re-Bled the Front Calipers
- Might Have a Leaky Master Cylinder - New one is on order.
- Polished some more Stainless Trim.
- Removed the Dingus End of the Old 3 on the Tree Shifter and Replaced it with a Smooth Can on the steering column.

I Plan to do the Autox At the Carlisle Show in 2 weeks... should be a blast and Hopefully I don't have any issues with the Smalish not deep, not baffled stock Oil Pan.

Pics:
New Rev counter helps keep track of that screaming 1 barrel all the way up to 4,500 RPM's!!




No More 3 Speed Shifter Bits here...





Greg

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Overfill oil by 2 qts when doing the autoX. You will not hurt a thing due to the overfill. You'll have to watch oil P gauge to see if it still uncovers the pickup...

Lou

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7/1/20:

Replaced the Parts Store Aspen/ Volare Master Cylinder with essentially the same unit from Strange Engineering. Hopefully better build quality and longevity than the 1.25 Years I got out of the parts store unit.. the Front circuit on the Master started leaking into the side of the firewall etc.

I took it out for a drive and wow! A properly functioning master cylinder with those 6 piston discs up front will throw your fillings through the windshield
- I had some severe front lockup on heavy braking on dry pavement so 3 turns of the prop. valve to send Bias to the rear fixed that!


Braking now seems fierce, balanced and linear.

Greg

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Awesome sauce!

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Rob

I’m Mater
The Kentucky Poser

Yep Rob.

Its getting there..
Except for wheels/ tires / engine / exhaust and other various lightweight bits and tricks it's Skookum as Frig.

Greg

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7/9/20:

Drove ~180 miles from my house to Ryan's house for the Carlisle weekend.

Found a nice route that bypassed interstates

Did drive over 3 mountain passes.. descending @70 mph.

Brakes are skookum as frig.

Ready for AutoX tomorrow!

Greg

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Have fun, Greg! Sounds great.
Lou

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