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 Post subject: How to adjust points?
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 4:58 pm 
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4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 5:19 pm
Posts: 34
Car Model:
I have a single point set-up in my Valiant andI just bought some new point. What gap should I set them up? ( I never played with point before!!!this is funny :!: )

_________________
1965 Valiant Custom 200, 2dr hardtop, 225ci
1997 Monte Carlo, 3800 supercharged swap
1995 Lumina, 3.4 DOHC swap


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 6:49 pm 
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TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jan 19, 2003 10:50 pm
Posts: 169
Car Model:
The gap on a 65 225 is 0.020

Turn the motor and find the highest point of the cam lobe.Set them there.

The setting is correct when the feeler gauge can be removed with a light drag.

JZ


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 7:36 pm 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24512
Location: North America
Car Model:
Hope you bought the correct points for your Canadian-build car. It's getting a little bit difficult to find good quality points for the Prestolite IBR-4203G distributor in your car.

Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.

Don't attempt to install or set the points with the distributor installed. Remove the distributor cap and rotate the engine until the rotor is pointing to any memorable position. I use 12:00, but 3:00 or 6:00 or 9:00 works equally well.

Remove the 7/16" bolt holding the distributor into the block and lift the distributor out. Notice the rotor turns 30° anticlockwise as you do so.

Put the distributor in a bench vise. Loosen the nut on the back of the (old, installed) point set that holds the condenser and distributor wires to the points. Remove these wires.

Remove the screw that holds the points to the breaker plate. Remove the screw that holds the condenser to the breaker plate. Remove the points and the condenser.

Apply mouth vacuum to the distributor vacuum advance can and verify that the breaker plate moves when vacuum increases, and does not return to "home" position until vacuum is released. If this is not the case, the vacuum can needs repair or replacement.

Grasp the distributor drive pinion with a shop towel in one hand, and grasp the rotor with the other hand. Turn the rotor clockwise while holding the pinion fixed. You should encounter spring tension, and when you let go, the rotor should spring back to where it was. If it does not, your centrifugal advance mechanism is binding and needs to be cleaned.

Remove the rotor.

Remove the felt from the centre of the shaft under the rotor, and apply two drops of oil. Replace the felt.

Apply some solvent (carburetor cleaner or brake cleaner) to a rag and carefully wipe the 6-sided cam that bumps the points open, to remove old grease and grit.

Install the new points and condenser. Install the wires on the points. Be sure not to get any contaminants (oil, grease) on the contact points.

The new points come with a small capsule of lubricant. apply a small(!) amount to each of the six faces of the cam.

Notice that the hole for the breaker point hold-down screw is not round, it is slotted. This is to allow you to adjust the position of the points on the plate, which in turn determines how far they open when their rubbing block rides up on one of the six corners of the cam. With one hand, push the points toward the cam so that they open. With the other hand, tighten the hold-down screw.

Rotate the distributor so that one of the cam's 6 corners is directly under the points' rubbing block. During this step, make sure the distributor does not rotate from this "high spot" position. Place a clean (no oil!) 0.021" feeler gauge between the two contact points, and carefully loosen the points' hold-down screw until the points' spring tension causes them to close on the feeler gauge. Securely tighten the hold-down screw. Remove the feeler gauge. Rotate the distributor several times (clockwise as you look down from the top), then put one of the cam corners directly under the rubbing block and re-check the point gap. It should be approximately 0.020". If it is not, start over on this step.

Install the rotor. Inspect the distributor's two rubber O-rings at the base. If they are missing, hardened or cracked, replace them to avoid oil leaks.

Take the distributor to the car. Place the rotor approximately 30° anticlockwise of the "memorable position" (12, 3, 6 or 9 o'clock) you chose at the start. Push the distributor into the block until it is fully seated. The rotor should wind up in the same position as you put it in at the start. If not, remove the distributor, rotate the rotor and try again.

Install the hold-down bolt loosely. Plug the vacuum advance hose with a pencil. Install the distributor cap. Start the engine. Using a timing light, set the ignition timing to 5° BTDC, then tighten the distributor hold-down bolt. Unplug and reattach the vacuum advance hose.

Now go drink a beer.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 8:23 pm 
Offline
TBI Slant 6

Joined: Sun Jan 19, 2003 10:50 pm
Posts: 169
Car Model:
HOLY SHEAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Go electronic.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2005 8:42 pm 
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Turbo EFI
User avatar

Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 1:49 pm
Posts: 2445
Location: Lubbock, TX
Car Model:
Quote:
HOLY SHEAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Go electronic.
:lol: :lol: :lol: Thanks for the laugh! I don't miss points, thats for sure. And my Satellite has more room than an A body! :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2005 6:44 am 
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Turbo EFI
User avatar

Joined: Tue Feb 18, 2003 7:34 am
Posts: 2479
Location: Lubbock, Texas
Car Model: 1964 Plymouth Valiant V200 Sedan
Good procedure write-up, Dan. It would also be a good idea to check the dwell once it's running. Remember: Adjusting the point gap changes dwell and timing.
It might take a couple of tries to get it all in spec. That's one reason I have electronic ignition in my '64 Valiant now.
5 Degrees BTDC works well as a starting point on timing. My slant tolerates a bit more advance - 10 BTDC - but that's also a trial and error thing.

_________________
"When you find a big kettle of crazy, it's best not to stir it." - Pointy-haired Boss

1964 Valiant V200, 225/Pushbutton 904
BBD, CAI, HEI, LBP, AC, AM/FM/USB, EIEIO


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2005 8:21 am 
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Board Sponsor & Contributor

Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 5:39 pm
Posts: 24512
Location: North America
Car Model:
Quote:
HOLY SHEAIT!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Go electronic.
Meeah. It took me practically as long to type that out as it does to do the actual procedure, once you've done it a few times. 20-minute job, working carefully.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu May 12, 2005 12:51 pm 
Offline
4 BBL ''Hyper-Pak''

Joined: Mon Apr 25, 2005 5:19 pm
Posts: 34
Car Model:
Thanks Dan, couldn't be more clear!!!

_________________
1965 Valiant Custom 200, 2dr hardtop, 225ci
1997 Monte Carlo, 3800 supercharged swap
1995 Lumina, 3.4 DOHC swap


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 13, 2005 6:13 pm 
Offline
Turbo EFI
User avatar

Joined: Sat Jun 19, 2004 8:01 pm
Posts: 1937
Location: Rhine, GA
Car Model:
Very nice article you wrote there Dan. You need to publish a car care book. I would be the first one to buy!

Points are very ineffecient and are a pain. Save up your money and buy a pertronix kit. You can get them at WWW.Eastwood.Com. I have a lawnmower that uses points. Not much fun.

_________________
82 D150-225/727
02 Dakota-3.9/5 speed
87 GMC C7000-8.2 Detroit Diesel/5+2


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