I just got done doing a complete workover (super six,electronic ignition etc) on a 65 valiant convertible.The transmision has the following symptoms

when shifting into reverse from drive the transmision stays in neutral unless you move the gear selector back and forth, also sometimes you can move the selector from park to low and the transmission will still be in neutral.BUt once in gear, the tranny shifts okay and doesn't seem to slip.The neutral saftey switch does not seem to be a concern as the car will start when the selector is in park or neutral.

The park adjustment seems to work fine.

I had the steering column and the transmission out.I didn't change any adjustments on the column. All I did was change the filter and front seal on the transmission(see below)

I've tried to adjust the gear selector cable at the transmission by moving it one hole at a time I've got it close but it still doesn't work right.As far as I can remember the car didn't have this problem before.

It seems to shift fine (doesn't seem to be slipping) although the shifts are real slight and not as hard as I would like.The kickdown seems to be working properly.

Here's another mystery we can't figure out.When I took off the transmission pan initially, the pan was clean,the oil was clean and so was the filter.I reinstalled the transmission with a new filter and refilled the transmission with 8.5 quarts of dextron 3( I drained the torque converter while I had it out).The car idled in park for an hour max when I had to remove the pan again becauseof a leaky O ring around the gear selector cable.Upon removing the pan there was a black oily mess on the bottom of the pan and all over the new filter.The transmiision oil was clean(it didn't mix with the black crap) and red.I cleaned out the mess and the filter and refilled the tranny with new oil.(I figured I had to see if the tranny worked before taking it out again and rebuilding it,plus I have to find what caused this before I rebuild it and wind up with the same mess.)

The oil is still red and doesn't smell burnt after my initial test drive today.
I'm sorry about writing a novel here, but I just wanted include as much info as possible.
I appreciate any help
Thanks

The best way to adjust the shifter is with the pan off and to have a second person select gears while you watch the manual lever that the cable hooks to. (see below)
Watch the pointer, where it hits the neutral safety switch, the cable needs to be adjusted so that pointer returns to the safety switch each time, from both directions. (from park to neutral and from first to neutral)
If the cable is worn or the outer housing is burned, you may not get the repeatability needed and it is best to find a replacement.

As for the black "slime"... I have been told that it is carbon, from "smoked" transmission fluid caught at the friction surfaces of the clutches and bands when they apply.
DD

A few things to remember:

1) There are three shifter adjustments on a '65 with column shift auto: The shift cable (adjusted via the threaded wheel, at the trans), the park cable (also adjusted at the trans) and the shifter detent plate (under the rubber boot at the base of the steering column, in the engine compartment).

2) Hope you used the '64-'65 filter w/2 holes...!

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What do you mean by the two hole filter for the 64-and 65?

There are two different kinds of in-pan trans filter for the Torqueflites.

The one for '64-'65 transmissions has TWO holes on the top surface, because there are two fluid intake ports on the bottom of the valve body—one for the front pump, and one for the rear pump.

The '66-up transmissions use a filter with ONE hole on the top surface, because those transmissions have only the one (front) pump and therefore only one fluid intake port on the valve body.

If you use a 1-hole filter on a '65 or earlier trans, you'll starve the rear pump, which will begin to whine as it wears.

You can hack a single-hole filter (cut a second hole) but the 2-hole filter is larger and hits other parts of the '65 and earlier valve body. Best to use the correct filter for the application.

('64-'65 filters can be used on '60-'63 transmissions, but you have to use the matching '64-up transmission pan)

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.

What would happen to the transmission if you install the 66 and newer filter with only one hole and drive the car?

Do you know where to find a 65 filter?.Most auto parts stores don't carry specific year filters for cars this old They only seem to carry the generic "one filter fits all"

I ordered a bunch of stuff from Pat Blais, and he is very knowledgeable. I'm sure he'd help you out if you emailed him.

Pat Blais Transmissions
Seattle
Specializing in 1960-1965 727 & 904 Torqueflites (1966+ also)
tflitepatty@verizon.net

See my previous post in this thread. You starve the rear pump.
Fram (shudder) FT1015:


NAPA 19715 or 17956 should also contain the 2-port filter.

Save yourself a bunch of current and future hassle; stop by the Chrysler dealer and get the really nice double-seal, reusable rigid pan gasket P/N 4295875AC and use it instead of the floppy gaskets that come with the filters.

_________________
一期一会
Too many people who were born on third base actually believe they've hit a triple.